shee rips

which ones would fit in the stock lights? the sweet blue ones hopefully? bottom left pic click here

mine ran just fine with the blown head gasket. if you still have the stock impeller that could be why its getting hot. that was my problem. did you run it without refilling the rad? that wouldnt have helped if you did

hey, i have been considering shortening the silencers on my fmf sst's, and have talked to a couple people about it, but its kinda a permanent mod so i would like to hear some more feedback from people who have done it. how is the sound? how much louder, etc thanks

haha no they dont have a heater, but they do keep my hands nice and warm. with them i just wear my normal riding gloves, and it is comfortable. no numbness or anything even after a long fast ride. keeps the wind off and your hands dry. the first time i went fast with them on (anything faster than 4th gear) i was like wth my clutch is slipping, but it was just the wind pushing the muff into the lever. so i just have to hold the lever out with one finger when i go fast. totally worth the 35 bucks

this is what came to mind when i saw the thread title i want to cut my fenders, but for the winter i think it would suck. not worth lookin cool imo

my head gasket blew on the right side, towards the rear water jacket. it was burnt looking where it was leaking. it was obvious though, becauser of the storm of steam following me down the trail, and every five minutes (every clean looking creek i came to) it took like a liter to fill up the rad. sounds like electrical maybe. do you still have tors? does it idle?

i dont mind the raptorshee rear fenders. i think they look kinda like fullbores. the fronts are hideous on a banshee though

water can freeze the slides open if its cold out. i know a guy with a twist throttle and it sticks wide open every time he hits a puddle, so idk if it could be something to do with the throttle

i got .020 taken off mine. i did it at the same time as a top end, so that would have helped too, but it was a fairly big gain. not huge, but definitly noticeable, i think more of a difference than going from 0 to +4 degrees timing. the gains were most noticeable in the low end, but it did gain everywhere. for what will cost about 50 bucks including the price of a gasket its good bang for the buck. i wouldnt go more than .020 if youre not getting it rechambered. my squish is around .035 with .020 taken off, and from what i understand that is on the tight side.... and for the guy that suggested that he bore it, its a waste of cylinders to bore tham for power. from what ive read the power increase is barely noticable, and then you dont have mush sleeve left if it needs a bore someday. im also pretty sure he doesnt want to tear into the bottom end right now, or send the cylinders off to get ported

mine were always easy on the dirtbike, but on the banshee i used a 3/8 extension, and supported the piston with my hand so it wouldnt put any sideways force on the rod, and tapped it out. the extension worked perfectly as a punch. i was just very careful to make sure that i didnt let the force get transferred to the rod. took some coordination to hold the piston and extension in one hand and hammer it , but it worked good twice now.

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html this is a good guide, it says 18 and 19 are good, but 19 is starting to look a bit lean to me. also, runnin it out of gas wont hurt anything if youre idleing, but if it runs out when youre wide open in 6th, i would imagine it would seize up on you.

i used a razor blade to scrape my melted pants off on my fmfs. just make sure you hold it almost parallel to the surface so it doesnt dig in and scratch. i need to do them again, i was doing burnouts just wearing jeans and made a mess on the pipes again, so i will try the sos pad this time

never had anyone ask that. for most parts the year doesnt even matter, so it "shouldnt" make a difference.

that aircraft paint stripper is some crazy shit if that wont do it then who knows, a rough polishing wheel might take it off. that or sanding i guess

i can almost guarantee that the rattle you hear at idle is piston slap, if the bike is 12 years old on the same top end. id say your looking at new pistons and rings, and a hone or possibly bore to clean up the cylinders. your crank is probably fine.

most people will tell you not to use a tc-w3 oil, but i have used it forever, in every bike i have owned. as long as it says its ok for atvs and dirtbikes id say its fine. if it says outboard oil on it then stay away.

this is cool looking, a little pricey though. also for those of you wanting carbon look rad shrouds, there are probbaly others, but my o3 lm edition comes with it and the 06 lm edition does too. the one on the 03 is a lighter color than the 06, which is almost black. http://www.maier-mfg.com/shop.cfm?Product_...;modelyear=2003

the way i do it is 3 heat cycles, letting it idle to operating temp, and let it completly cool down between cycles. on the second cycle i blip the throttle lightly once in awhile, and a little more on the third. then for the first ride i let it completly warm up and basically ride it like i usually would except when it tops out i let off, or shift a gear or whatever so its not screaming the whole time. on the second ride giver shit :thumbsup: oh and i wouldnt bother mixing rich. all that does is effectively make your motor run lean on th air/fuel mixture

i did the cascade rebuild kit too. it helped a lot, but after a few rides it started rattling a bit again. i went to a machine shop and found a tapered spring and used about half an inch of it. just put it above the post in there so it keeps pressure on both peices. hope you can understand what im trying to say lol but there is no rattle whatsoever anymore.

same i rarely get it from second. stock shift star....

that sucks. im surprised there was still 110 psi in thati think you could bore that out, but it would take quite a bit to do it. i dont know how much it would take to clean it up but it may not be worth porting them if you have to bore it to say .080 because there wouldnt be much life left in them... thats my take on the situation

there are lots of nice ones on that site. found a couple that i think would look good on mine. btw, welcome to the HQ :beer:

.020 = .5 mm.......... .050 over is 65.25

its apart, so just replace it. the most expensive gear in my 125 was under $100 so this shouldnt be more than that. you will probbaly have to order it from whoever you got the override from

if you decide on fmf, i would go with the sst's. i may be biased, but i think they hit harder. my friend (blackandyellowshee on here) who has fatties said the same thing when we both only had pipes and k&n.