shee rips

in that case heating it was the wrong thing to do. one, heating it expands the metal, tightening the fit. getting it hot then quenching works though. two, you got it hot enough to get soft. andyways, a pipe wrench often works. if the double nut trick is good when you plan on reusing the stud. you can also buy tools for it that work like a charm

i think squish would be a problem before compression unless you get it chambered too. i took .020 off mine and if i remember correctly there is about .035 squish clearance. it jumped the compression about 25 psi but i did the top end at the same time

thought it was funny, typed banshee and that was the first thing to come up. some people... terbow

hmm. i have one thats been sitting here for a while waiting for me to change the oil and put it in. i guess itll keep on sitting.

you could put a 13 tooth on the front and it should put you close to where you are now assuming you have 20s now

i dont see why it would. the cylinder sits farther forward than most of the bottom end, so the oil should go to the low point. only one way to know for sure tho

no you dont. obviously a builder could make a little more power by chambering it as well. i dont know how noticable it would be though. mine has .020 taken off with stock porting, and it was a good increase, especially on the bottom end.

yeah, i expected to throw some cash in. unless they were bored right out. how much you thinkin?

should be fine. i would probably go that route if i were doing it.

i might be interested in a little tradesy. my stock bore unported cylinders for you mx ported. what bore are they on?

a saw chain file works good. dont put a dremel that close to a fresh bore you dont need to take much off. just take the sharpness off.

think about it this way. in any engine, when you find a partially sheared key you replace it, but people are going and buying half sheared keys that should be thrown in the garbage, and installing them to replace a perfectly good one makes no sense to me.

haha you have to be able to say youve done it to sport the sticker :biggrin: if so its from royal distributing. they are out in ontario canada. they mostly do the sled thing, but have lots of quad and dirtbike stuff too. im not sure but i think they would ship international. i get their catalogs sent 2 or 3 times a year. royal distributing

its the clearance between the piston and the head. to measure it,take a peice of solder and bend it into an L shape. and insert through the spark plug hole( dont drop it). put it so its in line with the piston pin, and all the way to the cylinder wall, and slowly turn over the engine with the kick starter. it will s1quish the solder. then you measure the squished part with a micrometer.

i got .020 taken off mine, i freshened up the top end at the same time, but it was a good power gain i did the math on it, and i think it was .020 off is the equivalent of going 1 cc smaller. check the squish once you get it on. my squish is about .035 with .020 taken off the head. just so you have an idea where your at, unless its been rechambered, then this wont really work for comparison