shee rips

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: lmao this one gets three laughing smilies, one for .060 over making 410 cc, another for stock pipes going 110 mph, and another because i felt like it :beer:

mill the head .020 and advance your timing :thumbsup: last weekend i raced my buddies 05 450r, he has a yoshimura pipe and i think thats it, and we were dead even until he topped out. we both had passengers on and it was a rolling start in 4th gear so it wasnt really a great race

i had a yz 125 and it was a bit of an adjustment goin to the banshee because even the 125 hit a little sooner, but not nearly as hard as the banshee did with just pipes. if you are used to a 250 2 stroke dirtbike then the banshee will definitly feel sluggish off the bottom. this is not to say that you dont have a possible jetting issue. what is your compression?

not even sure what everyone is talking about here, but it sounds like something i dont realllllly want to find out for myself, so how would a person go about welding the ball to the rod?

my vote goes for carrier bearings. mine made a grinding noise at first, then howling, then came apart and wrecked my carrier and caused the chain to come off and break my case. do not go for a ride until you check/replace your carrier bearings. from the first squeak i heard, it took maybe half an hour till it came right apart and wrecked everything.

i would say you will be fine with any good brand name o ring or x ring chain. if all yo do is drag race or on pavement then an o ring is unnecessary and will rob a little power...... i only have experience with DID and renthal products and i like both. :thumbsup:

well for 30$ you can accomplish basically the same thing as a 200 something dollar coolhead. If you dont have overheating problems and dont need to change domes all the time to accomodate different fuels or whatever then i would just mill the stocker. that is unless to you its worth the extra 200ish dollars for another nice shiny peice :thumbsup:

mine surprised me when i took the stator cover off and water poured out. it was probably half full. surprisingly it ran fine like that :shrug:

this is a cool little thing that tells how fast you go with what gearing http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm only thing i can think of that would change the results is that the tires stand up when youre going fast. i put a block of firewood under the skidplate and went through the gears, and my tires got about 2 inches taller near the top of 6th gear.

i held mine to the nuts in 6th for about a mile, on the brakes for about 5 seconds, and back through to 6th and WOT in 6th for another half mile or so, and then another corner and almost a half mile there. keep in mind this was with stock carbs and no porting i dont make a habit of doing that though, but i had good motivation to get away real quick :biggrin:

you wont get it perfect, but a heat gun is your best bet, i used a torch on my dirtbike fender and got it pretty good but it melted a bit and broke off after a couple rides.

if you put your mods in your sig that would be sweet so we dont have to go back to another thread to see what mods you have :thumbsup:

lube your cable real good, if that doesnt do it then check for air leaks, and then clean the slides if it still does it

it looks cool, but IMO its not worth the 500 bucks, but if you have the money to blow then it would be cool.

my vote is for the big end rod bearing(s) my dirtbike sounded like what you described when it went

it will feel like you have half a gear less, like third will be like halfway between where 2nd and 3rd were before. its nice if you ride lots of tight trails because first gear is a little lower so you dont have to bomb through the tight stuff or use the clutch as much. you will have to shift more often though edit- im not sure about the chain length, if you have lots of adjustment left it should be ok

id say 40 - 45 to the rear wheels

i have 3 wires hanging where the taillight is supposed to go and my lights work fine

hmmm thats not bad at all then, dont even need to take the motor out of the frame

if you order the shaft and a clymer manual you could probbaly get it done by labor day, but that would be close. worth a shot though, if its like my bike was you dont need to take any of the transmission out, just split the cases and replace the shaft, so its not a horribly involved job

im not sure, but if its the same as my yz was, i had to split the cases to replace it

because money is an object, i would say that race gas would be what limits how far you go more than the bottom end. i have heard than 150 psi and +4 timing is about as far as you can go on pump gas.

be prepared to lose a bunch of rpm on top with that high of compression also i would think the rings would wear out significantly quicker, im not sure about that though.

are you willing to run race gas?

is that one that they advertise wont fit a 15? thats the reason i havent bought one, but if you say they fit a 15 then ill definitly get one. boke my case twice now so id say it might be time to invest in a case saver