shee rips

my stock impeller was taking a shit on me, and shee got hot, then next ride the head gasket blew on the right side within like 10 minutes of riding. it was losing coolant real quick. like a liter every 5 minutes of limping it home. you "should" be able to see where the gasket was leaking, whick it sounds like it was. while you have the head off i would mill it .020, especially if youre waiting a week for a gasket. then i would throw er back on there and see if that was it. make sure to check the torques a few times, like before the first 2 rides or something. i also used some copper coat on the gasket as recommended by some guys on here. good luck :thumbsup:

i wouldnt bother, as said there are other parts in there that are more out of balance than that. if youre bored one day then go for it though. it cant hurt.

sounds like where you ride is similar to me. i have fmf sst's and i like them. the low end is better than stock, and the pull all the way through, hitting fairly hard in the midrange.(noticably harder than fatties). milling the head and advancing the timing gave me more bottom end and smoothed out the hit a little. with the timing i didnt really notice a difference in top end power but the shaved head gained from bottom to top. if i were to buy pipes, they would be either dmc 916s, or paul turner mids, but PTs are expensive so i would lean towards the 916s my .02 :thumbsup:

i dont see why you couldnt just wire in one light instead of 2. i think the beam pattern wouldnt be as good with one compared to 2 lights because it wouldnt spread as much. idk how to explain what i mean but hopefully you understand. it could look cool if you mounted a single light on the bars,but if you frame mounted it it would look goofy.

my squish is at about .035. i wouldnt want to go much tighter than that.

i did the 35 sollar ricky stator one. my friend got one too and we had to grind down one part of it because it hit the flywheel but works fine now

seeing how unplugging the tors helped, i would remove all of that stuff, and the parking brake, and then go from there.

pipes and filter would be a better start assuming you dont have the bolt on stuff already

i didnt really see anything i like for my color combo on that page. thanks for the link though. kinda makes me wish i had a more common color combo :shoothead: because there are some nice ones on there. i couldnt find any graphics on that powersedge link. the parts breakdowns on there are good though. reminds me of the manual that came with my yz 125

just an idea if you really want to change it up bansheejunkey. i think your quad would look unreal with that red tribal flames if you got a black tank cover and rad shroud. just a thought. it looks sweet already though.

thanks for the link. i really like the red tribal flames, im not sure how it would go with the yellow front fenders though :shrug: the other day i was looking at some orange lakers and that really caught my eye. cant really afford or justify that right now though. just got the call and its about 125 bucks for the full oem kit from the dealership.

yea im kinda leanin towards the stock graphics. i dont know if i would change the graphics on your bike wacko2000, unless they are getting old and shitty or something. i also like the black and red but youre kinda in the same boat as there isnt much for the bikes that are half one color half another. i was kinda thnking all black too but i kinda like the black and yellow because nobody i know has it... i was thinking to cover it in stickers at one point too. im gonna see how much stock graphics cost.

i looked around and couldnt find any rated for more than i think 150 degrees F. i didnt bother because something like that would probably blow at the worst possible time, in the middle of nowhere you can buy hoses in a kit preformed for individual bikes, but its expensive that way. maybe try to find a store that specializes in that kind of thing.

as far as the head gasket, i dont think they are reusable. i dont reuse mine. sounds like your carbs are out of sync to me

i would think it would be better than that being a big name :shrug: i bought mine off ebay. it was from j&j racing or something like that. it was 100 shipped to canada for the engine and a arm skids. it is only 1/8 though, and doesnt flare up at the edges. i had a bit of a time getting it lined up, and it seemed as though some of the straps should have been longer to fit properly on mine too. idk, it might be the popular thing to make them hard to install or something. my AC swinger plate was a bitch to get on there too i like the confidence of having them there now though

beat me to it :biggrin:

shitty deal. been there done that. just be glad it didnt chew out any worse, because mine wasnt much worse than that and it threw the chain and broke the case. did you end up pushing it home too?

sounding like a twisted crank maybe :shrug: just guessing

ok cool i like that taillight. seeing how i have 2 little led pods i think i'll put one under the back like that too. :beer: now i just need more shiny stuff back there so it shines off stuff like that :biggrin: guys

i picked up some little led pod things today. each one has 6 LEDs in it. i am hoping to hook them up under the gas tank shining down on the engine. i am planning to hook them up to the tail light wire to keep it simple, seeing how im not running a tail light anyway. other than that the electrical is all stock. my question is, will they work on the banshee electrical system? the package says 12V DC help would be appreiciated, as i dont feel like burning a stator or something lol thanks

sounds cool, pictures...?

hey i've been looking around and cant seem to find any graphics that i like for the yellow front black rear color scheme. i might end up ordering some oem graphics becaue they are kinda cool, but if anyone knows of some that would look good on this color scheme i would appreciate it thanks

if it was cold outside the water could have frozen the slides open. mine froze on me one time in the throttle assembly on the handlebars. if you have the tors removed i heard that it will stick if you tighten the carb tops too tight. hope that helps.

thats cool

if im correct it happened right after you took the lid off? if thats the case you probably just blew it from running lean. i would start with a few sizes bigger on the mains when shees back together and go from there