BellicoseBanshee

Just those who buy them...

Until just recently, Honda made almost every 250R part, years after the model was axed. Yamaha has not changed hardly anything on the banshee over the course of production, do you really think Yamaha is going to stop making parts for a cash cow like the banshee? EDIT: That is funny!

If buying both is not an option, I would work a deal to get the Honda, the '88 is a good model year (especially if you are looking for a restoration project). :thumbsup: If you get a good deal on the Honda, you could sell it later and probably get exactly what you paid or more for it. Even though Honda has discontinued many of the genuine Honda parts, I have had little or no problems getting 250R parts. That, of course, could change depending on demand...

Mikuni VM26SS (Super Sport, haha :woot:) HERE is a general VM tuning guide...

Off the top of my head, that was the first thing I thought of as well...

It looks good, but it would be much faster with a chain...

IMO, you do not need VF3 for a non-ported, trail motor. Just get a nice set of reeds for the stock cages and that will make a difference. I also agree, if you are considering porting, get the T5s... :thumbsup:

I am not sure how well Gold Max or similar screws would work for all out drag racing, if I recall, the sleds used different studs for dragging/radar running. The tire combo I mentioned above was ideal for oval and similar racing cources...

The hot setup for ice racing was (this is back in the trike days) the 18" Cheng Chin C826 with Gold Max ice screws. The events in New England in the late 80s/early 90s required Gold Max screws only, so if you want to compete in sanctioned events, it would be a good idea to find out tire/stud requirements. I have never tried any other kind of screw, but the ones loco spoke of should be great for ripping the ice for fun. I would agree, no self-tapping screws. You will spit them out pretty quick... I preferred the screws 5/8" in length so the screws would not go through the tire. The Gold Max screws look just like these from Magic racing: Basically, any screw similar to the ones above will work... EDIT: Will the screws work well with Turf Tamers? Do the knobs on those tires have a crown?

Maxima MTL 85W for the banshee, Honda gear oil for the 'R', and I am going to try Silkolene Comp Gear Oil... :thumbsup:

Was it any good, or was it as dumb as the one on Dumont Dunes a while ago? The Dumont one was pretty pathetic...

I concur. I have been happy with Cascade and FAST. I think the customer service at FAST is second to none...

As you probably already know, it is expensive to build a cheetah engine. I agree with the above, the relatively small amount of money saved will not be worth the sacrifice in good customer service. I am not sure if F.A.S.T. sells cheetah cylinders, but Jeff would be my first phone call...

If done right, it will be reliable... :thumbsup:

As of a couple of years ago, Denton was manufacturing extended J-arms... :ermm:

If I were you, I would spend the money on a billet plate (Chariot or PD) and I would also buy a Noss head/domes instead of the Pro Design. My $0.02...

Yes, the RS timing plate simply replaces the stock, non-adjustable plate. :thumbsup:

Unless I am just not getting it, you should only need a new throttle cable that fits the thumb throttle if the carb switch boxes have already been removed when the twist was installed...

I installed one in my R about twelve years ago, and it just didn't feel as nice as the stock Honda clutch. A while later, I installed a new Honda clutch with (I believe) CR500 springs, and it works great. It was just a standard Dirt Digger, and I would be willing to bet the ones manufactured now are much better than the ones made 10-12 years ago. The Barnett did not fail, I just didn't like the feel... :shrug: I might try the Silkolen Comp oil...

Ran the Barnett clutch in a different bike and did not like it. Used the Tusk clutch for a couple of years without any trouble, but the F.A.S.T. clutch will be my next. Bottom line, I have heard from quite a few good sources that the F.A.S.T. clutches take a beating and keep on ticking. My $0.02 worth...

A nicely ported stock cylinder engine with a 4mm crank (porting must match crank to realize maximum power) and the correct accompanying components will make good power...

PM NYUK...

I installed six stiff springs, and did not notice much of a difference in pull. Just throw 'em in and start working that forearm for your next bigger engine... :woot:

Stock carburetors with 160 main jets! :ohmy: You are extremely lean, I am surprised the top-end has not Chernobyled yet... EDIT: With pipes and filter, you should be around 260-280 or more...

Be sure to use a TZ bearing on power side of the crank and you will definitely need a Pingel fuel valve. A billet fuel cap with the vent hole drilled out to about 1/8 inch to aid fuel flow. You may also want to have your rear shock serviced to match the increased swinger length. The usual transmission odds and ends as well...