michaud321

Thanks for going into details, i heard some ppl say that long travel on a banshee is a waste of time because of the geometry of the frame(longer travel causes bump steer) but ive seen other ppl say that a longer shock even tho its not a true long travel will still be better I understand alot more now, so like you said if i go with the longer float X evol i would adjust the shocks to limit travel a bit so im not in the bad bumpsteer zone,by doing that i should still have an advantage over running the float X with stock shock mount a arms,bumpsteer with longer shocks was what i was worried about but with the float x evol,if u can fix it,or make it better that seems like a better choice If i would go with the float X evol id get Laeger's long travel +3 a arms. since the float X are stock banshee length id probably go with the ASR MX pro +3 arms. I always thought that the float X evol would be better cause there 19.5" long and the Float X are stock length which is roughly 5" difference but from reading i was starting to think twice, after reading what you said its more clear now. Even for the extra money im leaning towards the float X evol with the LT a arms,mostly because the Float X is a stock length shock and that would limit you hopefully this makes sense,sorry if i repeated anything twice its kinda funny that you replyed cause after seeing your posts about redoing your front end,thats what really got me interested in the Fox Floats

Hey, im planning on redoing my suspension over, I think im going with the fox podium in the rear Now im stuck between the fox float X with standard travel +3 arms OR fox float X Evol with long travel +3 arms My question is, Is a Long travel setup that much better for the extra money?? considering the float Evol are roughly 600$ more than the float X and the long travel arms are few hundred dollars more also thean the standard travel Ive seen alot of mixed feelings about the long travel on the banshees!

thanks guys i thought that my top end will suffer how much more noticiable power will I get out of a 4mil with a 4mil port job compared to a stock stroke with a good port job?

over the winter in a few month ill be rebuilding my motor i was thinking an aggressive trail/mx port job or maybe a 4mil crank with a 4mil port job, if my cylinders need it i might resleeve them bigger or a get aftermarket cylinder but i was wondering how far i can go before i will need to upgrade my exhaust and carbs?(fmf fatty's and 28mm PWK) i know i will gain from upgrading to 34-35mm carbs with a good port job, but im worried about loosing too much bottom end,i dont mind loosing some bottom end but i DONT want that light switch power that i keeping hearing about from the cub cylinders,i dont really know much about the diff exhaust. because i still ride some trails(3rd-4th gear trails) but i also like ripping down roads so im not real sure what to upgrade, sorry im having a real hard time trying to explain myself, im not even sure if i asked a question

i'm looking for a round style carrier swingarm stock length or -1,maybe -2

i tried my buddys 07 400 shocks and they didnt fit good,i was thinking more like elka, fox, works, because id rather stick with shocks for the banshee that is a good price tho

im looking for a really good pair of front shocks mx style of riding let me know what you have im in ontario,canada

right on, thanks alot

Hey. what is the gas pressure of the stock rear shock? thanks

i got this bike about a year ago all stock with a blown motor and tranny, im basicly finished rebuilding the whole bike now, i tried to start it yesterday and there was no spark, then i finaly figured out that the tors carb system thing needed to be pluged in,i just connected the two wires together at the plug to disconnect the torsbecause i have a set of new 28mm pwk with a motion pro cable the bike will idle,but it will not rev up at all,it wont stall but if i give it any throttle it just sounds like its chocking itself, the bike is not reving more then idle i would say, u can really hear it because i have two clamp on k&n's,sounds like it sucking way too much air but my plugs are fairly wet,sorry its just hard to explain lol would this have to do with the tors? or maybe is it cause my carbs are not in sync? something else?

how is the performance gain of 2 in 1 carb, compared to bigger twin carbs (33-34mm) would it work well with a basicly stock engine, with maybe a head with 21cc domes?

i need a bottom end, both cases and the complete tranny a set of stock or aftermarket a-arms and a good set of front shocks im in canada!!!

thanks for the numbers, i didnt know what cc of domes i would need is it worth spending the money on a head to run a 21cc at 92 octane?on a stock motor just ported ,will that boost my power enough to notice? im almost done with my questions so if i port my motor, run a higher octane fuel and get a +4 timing plate i should be satisfied with the power and money i spent, i thought i would have to spend a little more $ on performance.

i need the upper and lower crankcase 2 gear shafts with all the gears shift forks and the 2 shaft shift drummy my crank is good Im in Ontario, Canada

ive got alot to think about now, ive got an idea now of what im going to do the reason im asking now is because i got this bike at the starting of this winter with a busted tranny, so im slowly starting to fix it for the summer coming, the engine is completly apart now and im going to figure out what engine mods im doing before i buy any parts to fix it i really dont mind running octain boost but race fuel is a bit hard for me to get. if i would want to run octain boost what would the compression ratio be? or compression? whats the best way to do this? or is the only way is to get a high compression piston? sorry as u can tell im real new to banshee mods, i know my ski-doo's like the back of my hand but not banshee's at all thanks again guys