BellicoseBanshee

TTT stands for "to the top." TTT and BUMP are used to move a topic back to the top of the page, mostly used in the 'for sale' section...

Use the same ratio you will use during normal operation...

You can take it apart and rebuild it, and it is inexpensive to replace the whole unit...

Use a thin layer of grease to hold the o-rings in place during installation...

I think I am going to try them. The Razrs do work well, but I think the Knarlys will be a nice change.

Why not use a multi-meter and shoot the wires that way? There is a wiring diagram in the technical documents section linked from the home page that shows how to modify the harness in the manner you are wanting to... HERE it is. :thumbsup:

How do the knarlys do in sand? Not sand dunes, but patches of sand found during desert riding. I am looking for an alternative to Razrs/Holeshots...

What needle are you using?

Funny, that is the first thing that came to my mind, the color scheme reminds me of the first year. I think it would look nicer with a white rear fender rather than the red... :smile:

I would say sell it to me if you were on the west coast... :biggrin:

What size tires are you running? I would look at changing the gearing. I am not a gearing expert and run my banshee in the sand with paddles most of the time, but 16/38 is very tall gearing... :ermm:

I would ride that bike all day long, it is definately nice... :beer:

Did you do a leak-down test after building the engine? What was the squish for each cylinder?

I do not remember ever watching it, but I do remember that it did have a major impact on the ATV consent decree (12 year old kids riding 250Rs, I wonder who is at fault, Honda or the stupid parents... oops, forgot which government I was talking about. Personal responsibility was out the window even back then). It sounds like we have seen the sport evolve with our own eyes, Meat!

That is correct, White rode the T3 and Hart rode the ATC250R. If I recall, White rode for Honda before he jumped Honda's 'mega ship' to race for Kawi, and did very well for them. I have been riding ATC250Rs for 16 years... One of these days I intend to add an '88 TRX250R to my stable, but who knows... Borrowing a reference from the Martin Baker ejection seat, I call my ATC250R a "widow maker."

Is anyone else old enough to remember the White/Hart rivalry? That was some of the best racing. :thumbsup: Epic racing...

That looks like an awesome project. It does look like it has a high center of gravity... This one below was built by a guy on 3 wheeler world forums. I love 2-strokes, but this looks bad to the bone. I would love to take it for a spin... Here is the link to the build: Honda HRC 450RR :thumbsup:

That is a good point, spike. :cool:

Manual says SAE 10W30 motor oil, just use that. I have never used anything but gear oil, but many use 10W30...

How does your bike run with the HJR porting and TR-6 pipes?

I would check the shift adjust bolt and make sure the shifting mechanism is properly adjusted before going any farther. it is the eccentric bolt behind the clutch basket...

The stroke has nothing to do with combustion chamber size, that is determined by the size dome you use. The 795 pistons are needed for the increased rod length (long rod crank) and the cut domes allow room for the extra stroke (you are correct, with a stock cylinder, the pistons will come out the top of the sleeve about 2mm). You have two choices: run a spacer plate to raise the cylinders 2mm or use domes that are recessed to allow the 2mm clearance required. As far as I know, cut domes is preferred over the spacer plate. The fuel required will be dictated by compression and timing. Basically, with stock timing, you can run up to 160-165ish on premium pump fuel, and with +4 timing you can run 150-155ish on premium pump fuel. If you are interested in HJR, call Kevin and get the run-down from him. He will give you the all the details involved to build one of his ported 4mm engines. As far as the bill, I agree, it does get expensive... EDIT: It has been a long day, so if I missed something, someone can correct me...

That is a fact! I noticed a few years ago, after turning 30, that I needed to make a few dietary changes. It sucked at first, but man I am glad I did. I kinda beat my body to the punch, :biggrin: . It is not easy to lose and maintain, you guys should be proud, it is quite an accomplishment!

They are not necessary, they only reduce clutch chatter. I have never seen an after-market clutch that included the o-rings. I run my clutch without o-rings...

I would spend the extra $85 or so and buy a crank with a TZ bearing installed on the power side. It is easier to buy one already done and worth the extra money, IMO. :cool: