black sunshine

That's sickening, very sad.

Not trying to be a dick Jayy, but go up to the top of this post and read through it, your Q's have been answered a couple times! Buy the fuckers already!!! :beer:

1.5 qts. Everyones got their own opinion on gear oil. If they have Honda HP 80/85W where you get your riceburner stuff, use that! It's what I and many others on this site use. Lots of other options, though.

Try giving the float bowl a few taps with a screwdriver handle. If that doesn't work, take the carb apart and give it a good cleaning and then blow it out with compressed air. Check the float height and inspect the needle/seat area for wear.

Pretty sure you just need to snip off the piece of the front fenders that currently go below the stock tank because the Clarke tank will occupy that space.

Post up some pics when you get it installed! :thumbsup:

New Alpine you say? Where EXACTLY do you live? :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: J/K, glad to here someone is getting justice out there!

I'll have to order a new sleeve if that's the case 'cause the stocker sawed thru the old one!!! Found a cascade slider from RMATV for $25, sound right? I'll have to order a bearing kit for the pivot cause I need a new oil seal, i hope they carry sleeves as well. Did my OEM roller malfunction or was that the way it was designed? If it was intended to function like that, it is the worst thing on the bike, IMO.

Yeah, I had spied one of those on fl-ebay a couple minutes ago, that should cure all that crap, thanks !!!!! :beer:

Anyone have a fix for this? I know that the one that is on there is original but it is still in one piece and the damn thing has worn through the oil seal and some type of sleeve that is under it. Is something missing/broke on mine or is this the design? The bore on the guide is about a half-inch bigger than the swinger tube, and the chain spins this plastic guide constantly against the swingarm. Is that how it is supposed to work? Seems shitty to me, will a new OEM setup be suffice or has some other manufacturer improved this setup? thanks for any input!

Theres was a guy on here yesterday selling one for 3300 OBO Downstate Michigan. Nice lookin 370 4mm. Cant remember his name! Look in the For SALE forum.

Check the packing in your silencers. If you want quiet low end I'd stick with the stockers! Someone on here will probably give you the stock silencers if you pay them for shipping!

No one ever offered me one :tongue:

I'm interested in the answer to this as well. My motor is getting worked over very similar right now except I will have stock carbs. Mostly fast trails and I do like a light front end (doesn't everyone?), but will I be able to hammer on it? I don't want to flip over everytime I hit the gas If I need an extended swinger, what length and maybe a good brand?

Dajogejr, How many times, give or take a dozen, have you replied to this same question? :laugh: No disrespect, Im not being a dick to the guy who posted it or anything like that. Its just that I haven't been on here a year yet, and it just seems to come up all the time!!!

Im gonna guess your Canadian, but you may want to narrow your location down further yet for any prospective buyers :thumbsup:

Un-f*cking-real

125psi is a fresh stock motor at around sea level, so I'd say your tester is reading high or you have smaller domes, or your motor is actually gaining compression with age!!! Gauges are usually equipped with a "tattletale" type device that records and holds the highest psi reached. Compression tests will not tell you if you have a leak cause the cylinder releases all the pressure through the exhaust each stroke. Hold the throttle wide open and kick it a few times til you cannot reach a higher pressure. After that is done to each cylinder, try squirting a little 2-stroke oil in the cylinders one at a time and test again. A noticeable jump in psi is an indication that rings are worn.

Let me start by saying welcome!!!! Secondly, you have "hijacked" a thread with your first post!! Impressive!!!! Start a new post in the carb/exhaust section. Also do a search for a "plug chop", located on top screen on this site. This will give you detailed instructions on what you need to know.

Take yo ass to da store wit one a da good ones!!!!

They will do that when you are putting around. The important thing that you did was the plug chop. Those same plugs will look totally different after a hard beating.

Take note on the seals and put the new ones in the same way; lip facing in or out, I cant remember. Like Trick2Stroke said, you dont need a zerk on there. You can give a little shot of grease in the housing and smear some on the spacer (DONT FORGET THE SPACER!!!) when you install them. Too much grease will build up heat.

Are you counting from the blunt end or the fat end of the needle?

:thumbsup: Also, dont hit the inner ring of the bearing when tapping them in or you will wreck them. If you have a socket that fits in the carrier bore and is contacting only the outer ring of the bearing that will work. I made a puller with a piece of all-thread and nuts and assorted size washers on both sides. Make sure your carrier bore is free of nicks and burrs from when you drifted the old bearings out, or you'll have a real hard time getting the new ones in... :beer: