black sunshine

Ok, you say rich in the header but lean in the first sentence of the topic? I am assuming you are concerned about the bog, try 27.5 and readjusting the air screw. Also try leaning the clip on your needle one notch. Don't know about the reeds, though :shrug:

You mean blued? Try Blue Magic metal polish. It is not "magic", but with alot of elbow grease it will take the blueing to a much less noticable color, till they get real hot again!

Yes the carrier needs to go to the left or the axle needs to go out the right side so your disc bolts should not be a problem, just remember to take the caliper off!!!! Once the bearings are trashed it is in God's hands. Let everything sit and soak in some JB80, Parts Blaster, ect... BFH's come into play and maybe a trip to the local shop that has a press... If you do trash the axle you can usually get a decently priced stocker that is straight from a member on here. Put your new bearings in the freezer while your wrestling with this project for the next day or two, every thousanth counts... GOOD LUCK :thumbsup:

I would stay away from pods if your going to be riding in rain or splashing through puddles. You should let your motor breathe a bit more, holes in the lid, or no lid. Going with no lid (especially with a K&N) will require you to richen up your jetting.

Might be able to get a set of YFZ450 front shocks on it for that.... Timing plates are cheap K&N and adaptor plate Tires? There's more, I just can't think of any others at the moment

That is a total rip off. Those guys are making alot of money off people for being the middleman. 35-40/cyl for boring and anywhere from 175-450 for porting both cyls. Doesn't cost much to ship cylinders in the US and some builders have a pretty fast turnaround time, especially if you are looking just for a bore/hone and cleanup/chamfer port edges

"Has Raptor plastic--'makes it look better.'" :yucky: :yucky:

DANG! Sweet ride. Engine looks snug as a bug nestled in there!!!! Very nice work :beer:

It'd be a good time to throw a pancake bearing in there :beer:

Take the bowls off those babies and see what size mains your running. Take out a pilot while your at it, there's #'s on those too. What clip position would be a plus. This will help determine what you need to order. If it were me, I'd drop a couple sizes on the main and do a plug chop (do a search). How's the spark look? Check that out, too. What oil ratio are you running? How is your tranny oil level? Keep an eye on that, a clutch side crank seal will burn that stuff and foul plugs, but I think only on that side, not sure though.

Race gas....Hell, that's all I need to know before shelling out 17K semolians. I'm glad he didn't list all the things that are done to it... It's like buying canned veggies without the labels....FUN!

Do a search on here for RNBRAD, he has a detailed post on how to build a leakdown tester. It should hold 6psi for 6 minutes. This will pressurize everywhere that you can obtain a leak. I would post it up as a hyper for you but I am dumb... :shrug:

Can't move the kicker? What do the plugs look like?

At least get 18cc domes with your Noss to get your compression back to stock specs.... :yelrotflmao:

I would start by cleaning your petcock, or put some gas in it (couple gallons) and drain it back into a gas can while watching the flow while switching from on to reserve. If the reserve port is gunked up you will see a noticable difference in flow. Probably why no one replied is they were thinking, "why doesn't he put some gas in it?" EDIT: MJ beat me to it!

I would really recommend checking it with another tester that is known to be accurate. I have gone through this the hard way with a buddies Matco that was well taken care of. That one told me I was at 80psi in both cyls but the bike fired up in the first two kicks all the time. This is usually uncharacteristic of a bike with that compression. Got a bore and new pistons and 20cc domes and the tester read 100psi!!!! Got a Snap-On and got 160psi both cyls, which is right where it should be.

Try switching the plug leads...

How did you check the crank seals, visually? You need to do a leakdown test to check those babies, as well as the head, cyl's, cases.

I usually leave one in the other hole just to keep out foreign stuff while all that kicking is going on. It doesn't affect the readings.

Call Jeff at FAST (site sponsor). He can sell you a pancake bearing that will alleviate that problem and give you a walk through on installation.

If you have a clymer's for it try testing the electrical, it has the values listed in there! Although, mine checked out alright and it also has a miss on the top end :shoothead: Changed the CDI and bought a new coil for the hell of it. Plugchop looked a lot better, but I noticed a definite miss on the top. Compression is also good, I'm gonna do a thorough check on everything this winter, but I still have a weak spark after the new components.

I wan't to say that it's every 25-30 deg F for a main change. You could PM daogejr 'cause I'm pretty sure he posted it up. It will run better when lean, but the problem is I don't think you have a baseline to go from. You may have been jetted right for 85F and it is running lean right now. If you knew your jetting was spot on in the summer then you could bump up a size or two right now and know you are ok.

I'd do a plugchop, with pods your 280's may be lean. Try leaning the needle out 1 clip position, this will help with your bog.

4th position from the blunt end or pointy end? If your counting from the blunt end, try moving it back to the middle or even 1 more if that helps. This will lean out the midrange for you. You need to do a plugchop to determine your mains. Maybe try a 27.5 pilot, also.

If he also honed your jugs then $75 is a good price!