KRMit

Well, he got to looking closer and the piston actually has 1.25mm on it. What is the .010? Is that ten-thousandths of an inch?

My friend has a Tri-Z he's looking to rebuild and I'm not sure what to get. The cylinder looks good but the rings and piston have grenaded. Rocky Muntain ATV has piston kits in STD, .010, and .020. The piston we took out of the motor has .25 on the side of it. What does that mean?

Yesterday I raced a Z400 and a 450r on grass. I'm gonna compare the KFX to the Z because I think they're the same bike. Both quads got me a little on the holeshot. I would immediately start pulling them both though. The Z actually gave me a run for my money. That thing is seriously gear low. I would pass him about 5th gear though. I was really surprised. I figured the 450 would demolish the Z, but in 300ft I'd have to give it to the Suzuki. The 450 would eventually pass it though.

I have a Nitro Rustler in pretty good shape I'm looking to get rid of. I never really got into it too much. I have a box starter with several batteries, a good charger, extra wheels and tires, many spare parts, steel sprocket...blah, blah, blah. I'm looking to get about $200 for everything. I paid a little over $300 for the truck and have at least $100 worth of extras.

So ya'll are looking at the strap and the ring at the end of the threads where the strap is attached right?

Try doing it in 6th.

I'm thinking 33mm for stock/piped, 35mm for ported, duals for anything more.

It does give you a lot more bottom and mid. I'm not real sure about the top, I'm still messing with the main jet.

I thought Clarke only made a 3.something tank? RockyMountain looks like the way to go if I can't find one on Ebay. I just want to be able to slap it on and ride. I can't afford $80 for those risers and I don't think a steering stem would be much cheaper.

I'm interested in getting a bigger tank to keep up with my bud's 450r. I read from past posts that the IMS tank causes the handlebars to hit. Is that a real problem? I'm still running stock bars by the way.

Exactly what I was getting at. Maybe you should re-read my post. Running the airbox with the ProFlow foam filter (without prefilter) flowed better than the Toomey setup with Outerwear. That may be unique to my bike for some reason but those were my results.

I used to have the Toomey 2 into 1 and when I switched to airbox I had to go up on my mains. To me, that indicates the airbox actually flowed better. It kinda makes sense since air flowing through the 2 into 1 has to turn 90 degrees as it gets sucked in. That's my personal experience anyway.

Foam filters catch a lot more. I'd never recommend a K&N for an offroad vehicle. The 2 into 1 filters only work about as good as the airbox with the lid off, so I wouldn't waste your money. The best alternative would be clamp-ons, but you said you want to keep the airbox so that's kinda ruled out. This is the first I've thought of this, but couldn't you drill holes in the bottom of the airbox and put in the small filters? Wouldn't that flow more air with the combination of taking the lid off? Of course they'd have to be cleaned a lot to be of any use.

I ran it for a couple years and had no complaints with it other than the cost. It smells awesome.

I've got a 35 and am running almost the highest main you can. I'm not sure what would happen with a 32, haven't tried it. Considering the mods you listed he'd probably be ok running a 32 or 35mm.

Get unfinished pipes and paint them black. Anyone with Banshee experience can tell the difference, but not the average joes.

Single carb gives loads more bottom end, but takes away a little from top. It depends on your riding. If you just haul ass wide open all the time I'd stick with the dual carbs. For woods and jumps however, go single.

I'd love to have an Outerwear cover for the airbox, but have no idea where to get one. K&N makes an expensive lid, but I'm not paying that much. You're probably best off leaving it as is. An outerwear or those airbox filters will let water through like crazy. If you cut the back of the airbox you'll be in worse condition than you are now. If this mudhole you're talking about comes over the airbox you probably just need to find a way around it (you probably wouldn't make it through anyway). The only way to safely make it across would be to go back to airbox lid + snorkel and make sure everything is watertight, but that would be damn restrictive.

30 pilots is probably going to be a lil rich, but it won't hurt to try.

Think about the mechanical differences between a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke. A 2 stroke fires twice as much as a 4 stroke moving at the same RPM. Therefore any 2 stroke should burn approximately twice as much fuel as a comparable 4 stroke.

I believe it was showing in stock on the website.

I just changed my oil last night and put 1.5 quarts in. The oil reads halfway up the dipstick instead of at the bottom where the marks are, is this normal?

I'm possibly going to be ordering this Tusk clutch kit which doesn't include springs. RM also sells an EBC spring set which are supposed to be 10% stiffer than stock. Should I get the Tusk clutch and EBC springs are just reuse the stock springs? BTW, I'm replacing the clutch plates because when I shift during a race it revs real high (clutch slip), then goes back to normal throughout the gear. I assume that's the plates. Thanks for input!

Oh, well that's definately going to be your main jet then.

Changing the needle clip position only takes a couple minutes with the Trinity setup. Try raising the needle one clip and see what happens. If that doesn't help, lower it back down one notch lower than it was.