KRMit

That actually doesn't sound like a bad deal, but how would I ship something that big?

I've got this old red frame sitting behind my house and really want to get rid of it. Anyone want it and have any idea how to ship it?

I'm getting desperate for some black plastic. I'm supposed to start racing by February and I really don't want to waste stickers putting my numbers on plastic I don't like. I need front and rear. I want race fronts, but I could just cut the full if I had to. If you have any for sale please contact me ASAP!

I haven't seen too much Banshee Maier plastic up front. A friend of mine said Maier plastic doesn't fit and is ugly. Any truth to this? It seems a lot of people buy it so I don't see why it would be.

27.5s are probably a little rich for your setup but shouldn't hurt anything. I think your main problem is doing a correct plug check. You need to put new plugs in and ride through about half a tank of gas. Then put a sparkplug wrench in your pocket and line up on a long straight. You need to wind it up like you're in a drag race and hold it 6th gear pinned for about 5-8 seconds. Then kill the motor, pull in the clutch, and stop as fast as you can. Pull out one of the plugs and look at it. The porcelain (part that is white when new) should be medium brown. If it's black you're too rich, if it's white you're too lean on the mains. *EDIT* I didn't notice you have it ported. The 27.5 pilots might be right.

Same response I got when I asked. I wouldn't worry about the arms if you aren't racing. Definately get a wider axle though.

Depends on how much cream you use. I'd go for a Hershey chocolate color myself.

Some of my friends run Ohtsus (sp?) and the 400ex stock tires. These look similar. Thanks for the review sredish, that's what I wanted to know.

If the ball joint popped out, I think you have to replace the whole arm. If you have the extra cash go ahead and get aftermarket.

Razrs work good for hard-pack, but now I have my eye on the I-Razrs. They should hook up better in the loose stuff.

How about you buy my stock a-arms and I buy some new ones? Keep an eye on Ebay. ASR looks to be about the cheapest but they're still pretty high.

Is it still hard to start once warmed up? Once warm it should start in 1 kick. Mine takes 10 kicks to start cold, and that's with too lean of a pilot. When I had the stock carbs with stock pilots it would crank in 2-3 kicks cold.

I personally wouldn't run a K&N on anything except a drag bike. The UNI/Proflow kit is my best recommendation. Take the lid off the airbox and it should flow about as good, if not better than the Toomey.

Anyone have opinions of these?

I'm sure that didn't include labor?

You probably need to richen up your jetting somewhere... probably your needles or mains.

Jumping will probably take the most getting used to. You can't jump at too low of RPMs or you'll endo, too high and you'll be looking at the sky. You don't have as much room for error as with a 4 stroke.

YFZ450, especially if you already have a Shee.

The 450s will take a Shee in 300ft dirt. It all depends on the race conditions. BTW, 77mph sounds about right for a stock Shee. Mine does 73 and it has a 44 tooth rear sprocket and single carb. Dual carbs wind up a bit further and the stock Shee has a 41 tooth sprocket.

Can you get a pic of the fenders? I'm real interested.

My wife has a hard time seeing that option as well.

All my friends are telling me to sell my Banshee and get a 450. We ride mostly in sand pits (mainly jumping), trails, and gravel roads. At the start of the next year I want to start racing MX. I love my Banshee very much and I hate to get rid of it, but I don't want it to hold me back either. My experience with a 4 stroke is that the power delivery is smoother and much more predictable in a jump. Jumping is my passion. I recently upgraded my fronts to the Elka Recreational shocks so I dunno if the 450 will still handle better or not, I would imagine so. I've never ridden a YFZ450, but I'm leaning towards it over the Honda. I don't really know the differences in the two though. Listed below are some advantages and disadvantages I can think of. Banshee advantages: 1. Higher top speed. 2. More exhilirating when the powerband snaps on. 3. Banshee name is legendary. 4. I'm doing something unique in my area. 5. I know my Shee very well and it's easy to work on. 6. BansheeHQ 450 (r or YFZ) advantages: 1. Handling (better ergonomics, suspension) 2. More controllable power range. 3. Higher reliablity. 4. Half the fuel consumption, no premixing. There are no-doubt more advantages to both, but it's late and my brain isn't completely functioning. I'll also more than likely buy new, so that's also a factor. I expect to get about $3k for my Shee, so that will leave about $3500 to finance. Speaking of which, how much do ya'll think my Shee is worth with the mods listed in my sig? Thanks for the replies everyone. I know this is a Banshee message board (which I love being a member of), but please be objective in your replies and votes.

Mine came with a DEL. I've got it running pretty good with it so I'm not going to frustrate myself trying to fine tune it beyond that. The following link helps explain what the different needle sizes are... http://www.duncanracing.com/techfaq/Tech_k...n-jetting.phtml

I'm pretty happy with mine. I wouldn't think about getting another set of pipes if these weren't rusting. $150 is a steal. I repeatedly wupped a T-6 Shee last weekend, of course that could have been the rider. When I had a 13t front sprocket I could pull the front end up in 6th... then the dumbo ears would catch air and I'd catch pavement. Get the FMFs and shave your fenders.