KRMit

I've heard so many different people's views on what to look at that I just plain don't know the right way to read it. A local guy told me to look at the bottom of the porcelain with a magnifying glass. I guess that's the best way, but damn... I don't have all this money to keep sinking into plugs. Whenever looking at the plugs with either the 175 main or 190, they look identical in my eyes. And that's 6 sizes difference!

Are you sure the kickstarter seal can be replaced so easily? After wiping away some of the grime, it kinda looks like there's something copper there.

Think that would be about the same with the 35mm? I started with 175 main and have went up 2 sizes everytime. I've gotten all the way up to 190 and it flattens out on top. No backfiring, just doesn't pull any harder at full throttle. I threw the 175 back in it yesterday and I think it was actually better, so looks like I've been going the wrong way. I'm not sure at all which way to go with the pilot. It has a 48 in it now. It won't start cold without choke and it hesitates a little right off idle. I'm thinking it's too rich and I need to go down a couple sizes, but you would think it would crank without choke if it's rich.

High it is then!

Keep us updated. I'm having the exact same issue with my 35mmCV. I've gone from 175 to 190 with no difference and I think they only go up to 230. I'm gonna snag a 195 and 200 today to try. I figure I'll go rich till the plugs go brown.

Highlander "Have you ever danced with the devil in the pale moon light?"

How much do they usually run? I couldn't find any prices on the website.

How much do ya'll usually pay for jets and where do you get them from? I just payed $5.30 for 1 main jet. That seems crazy to me for such a small piece of brass. I'm going to go broke before I get jetted right.

I think he's asking if pulling the choke at WOT will tell you what direction to go in for jetting. I would think this would work in theory, but I've never tried it.

Sounds like the mains are lean to me. Do like Banchetta said and go up a couple sizes.

Yeah, I could go for that too if anyone has them.

What a thought! You're a genius! Would you happen to know how to get the airbox on?

I just called Trinity and he said to cut off the bottom of the hooks on the front of the airbox. That's apparently in the instructions that come with the kit, but of course I didn't get those. I'll give that a shot tonight. Has anyone else tried this?

Thanks for the reply. If they're that easy to fix, I'll probably do it tomorrow. Nah, haven't changed anything. The shift shaft leak isn't anything new anyway. I've just been too lazy and cheap to fix it.

Well, I don't mind rejetting this thing so much anyway. With the dual setup I had to take the quad halfway apart just to get in the carbs.

Yeah, it was after hitting a few jumps. I haven't had the bottom end apart in the past few years I've had it, I don't know before that.

Should I adjust the reed stops on the VForce cages to high or low with my Trinity CV setup? What will the difference be? I mainly ride in sand pits with a lot of jumping, but occasionally do a little bit of everything else.

After going riding the other day and leaving the bike sitting for a couple days, there is a small puddle of gear oil underneath it. I've had a small oil leak coming from the shift shaft for a while, but now it's leaking at the kickstart lever too. Any tips on fixing these? Thanks.

I just got the kit in today and pretty well everything has gone through without a hitch with the exception of the airbox adapter plate. I've got it mounted to the airbox but now there's no way to get the airbox in place. Before, with all the rubber boots I could hook the front just by pushing in real hard. This metal doesn't flex though. Anyone have any suggestions? I've tried going from the top and the back, neither works. I can't get either front side to hook on the knobs. Thanks for any help!

Agreed. You'll most likely want the needle in the 4th clip from the top unless your at a pretty high elevation, so you might change that before you run the WOT for the main. I'd bet money that it's in the 3rd from the top/blunt end. The needle clip position affects a WOT plug check?

That's a good point, but that really just puts you in the same boat as every other ATV.

That's what I've gathered from reading here. I would say if ALL you do is drag the twin carbs would be best, but what fun is that?

I raced a stock Raptor Saturday. We were about dead even the first race, but the second shot I got a little more traction and left him behind.

I just got the carb in from the guy and it has a 175 main and 48 pilot. That seems odd to me since the guy was supposed to have all kinds of MX mods done. Anyway, is it safe to crank and check the jetting with that or is it too lean?

I'm getting a 35mm Trinity CV kit used and I'm probably not going to be able to pull the carb. Will trade for 33mm Keihin carb.