2003LimitedBanshee

Exactly! I've got that covered... we must just be missing on the explaining part, cuz we're both talking about the same part.

With some money, you could actually build a pretty quick Warrior... do I think it will take out a mildly modded 'shee, prolly not, but it'd probably give some of the milder 4 strokers all they could handle. I think Alba put together a 400cc stroker that ran pretty quick. Just wanted to post that, don't have any info on the Lectrons, sorry!

Pm'd you...

The are the idle speed adjusters. Not to be confused with the pilot (idle) jetting air screws. But I'm sure some others will weigh in and set one of us straight.

It sounds like you are talking about the right screws we are just more questioning the method (are way you describe) you used to set them. Unlike the pilot air screw which will be .5 - 2.5 turns out from fully seated (closed), the idle screw doesn't really have a set 5.5 turns. They should be set by backing all the way off, holding the idle at the appropriate rpm, running the idle screws in until they bottom against the slide, raise the rpm just slightly, then back the screws out approx. 1/4 turn.

Jeff, Check out Alba Action, ALBA, they have the Motion Pro kit. Also Toomey Racing, TOOMEY, sells both a quarter twist and the short (approx 1/8) twist throttle kits. I will say, I know a lot of guys have warned about switching to a twist, or have switched back, so I haven't made the move. But it dies hard from the 2 wheel world.

Yep, thinking that will be my next step. The other fairly common mods people will do is: advance timing, reeds (VForce 2 or 3's), you could ditch the stock airbox (but not if you ride in muck or much water), porting, maybe swap carbs if you have it ported, ignition, Noss head etc. etc.... But, like loco said a lot will depend on the type of riding you do.

Did you just send the cylinders out to F.A.S.T. or did you send the complete engine? Also, how much did the porting cost you?

What? The idle screws are set by holding the throttle at the desired engine rpm, threading the idle screws in until they raise the rpm just slightly, and then backing off about 1/4 turn. I'm not sure how you could have a set 5 1/2 turns out, it's more just when it's right, it's right.

Trailtech X bar, with the high bend. Helps when standing up if you're a bit taller.

Try the search function at the top of the forums page. There aren't really DIY specific areas within the forum, but almost anything you can think of has probably been addressed, and most likely with DIY options presented. Search for the issue, modification, whatever you're interested in and you'll likely find something.

Your seat should hold itself in, loosely, without the fenders installed. Both the front and back of the seat are retained by sections in the frame. However, the plastic does serve as a spacer and alignment so that the seat fits snug. I'm not sure how, and have never tried it, but you should be able to replicate the spaceholding effect the plastic has in some way.

Pm'd you...

Sounds like you are definitely talking about the idle screw. As a test, when you screw it in does the idle change? The only other brass screw heads you should be able to see would be flush mounted, and they are the pilot air screws. I bet you are looking at the idle screws.

Agree sounds like a float height issue to me if you checked the needle/seats for leaking. Also, it's not a bad idea to turn off the gas whenever the bike is not in use anyway.

Generally it is because your jetting is too rich. This is essentially when there is too much fuel coming in to be ignited, it wets the plugs and prevents them from firing. But there are many types of fouled plugs. You could end up with a large amount of carbon buildup (possibly as a result of highly leaded fuels), you can foul plugs from running too rich of an oil mix ratio (ie. 20:1), many different things. But again, probably the most common reason is due to overly rich jetting.

I had a set of plugs that I had been running for several months, when my bike was stock, that I initially ran after installing my T5's. The plugs were quite dark, although they did not foul. I installed my T5's, 2:1 air filter, and installed Toomey's "Perfect Jet Kit" with 280 mains. I warmed the bike up, and did a WOT plug check (not chop, which I question the need for), and the plugs had turned nearly white, not even close to tan. This was of course because the mains were to lean. The moral of the story... if you're lean it will clean and whiten up those plugs you've been running without a doubt (and that's not necessarily a good thing).

Atomization of the fuel and air takes place in the carbs. Like Wallrat said, the reeds essentially serve the same purpose as traditional intake valves do in a 4 stroke engine, however they are moved by the suction (opened) or pressure (closed) created by the movement of the pistons, as opposed to by the cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers (or cam and followers in overhead cam applications) in the basic otto cycle engine.

Is that supposed to be a pic of the slide? It's kinda hard to tell what exactly is supposed to be the focus of the pic.

Yep! dlnoss is great about responding both to posts and PM's. As loco said, it is going to depend on your elevation, but also other mods, ie. timing, porting etc. Generally I understand you don't want to exceed 150 psi cylinder pressure, without mixing some race fuel. However, if you have the timing advanced etc. it will likely be lower. Therefore, if you are at a higher elevation you can run a smaller dome (at elevation the air is less dense) at still have tolerable cylinder pressures. If you check this link, NOSS Machine it will give you a pretty decent approximation of estimated cylinder pressures depending on elevation.

All in all I'd say that sounds pretty good. You could make a few minor additions to what you said, but it doesn't sound like it would make a whole lot of difference, because it would be some technical details, that go beyond the basic concept.

Now that's funny! I don't know anything about this transaction, sounds stupid from every angle, and I wish it would just go away.... Hey Mommy can you make it go away??

I would definitely go with VForce 3's. I ran the Boyesen Pro Series reeds for quite a while and they did help the throttle respones slightly over stock. However, I traded bikes with a friend for a few minutes one trip to the coast. We had essentially the exact same mods, with the exception that I had my timing adv. +4 and he did not. I had the Boyesen ProSeries and he had VForce 3's... NO comparison, his throttle response was far superior, plus starting was so easy (mine starts with one kick when warm, but you could practically start his by pushing the kicker with your hand). Needless to say I got some VForce 3's after that.

I would also suggest T5's. Like wallrat said, the T6's do make slightly more power on an otherwise stock engine, but the T5's will come out ahead down the road if you have the bike ported etc.

Thanks for the advice. You should read the mods I have in my signature before critiquing my suggestions. I am running a 2:1 air filter, with the stock airbox completely removed (obviously), since he was not, I was pointing out that he was probably currently somwhere below where I was. I realize you must jet up when you remove the stock airbox, that's why I did on my own when I made the switch, thus I was suggesting that he would probably end up around there once he removed the airbox. Plus, I always end up with people telling me that 340's are way too big for the mods that I have. But thanks for explaining the basics of jetting to me, maybe you can stop by and help me jet my bike sometime.