2003LimitedBanshee

Too big in my opinion, he isn't ported, and still has the stock airbox, w/Pro Flow & K&N. I'm running the mods in my sig, and am only running 340's when I ride at sea level, approx 60 degrees. I agree that you'll probably like the 4th clip on the Dynojet needles (came with your Toomey Jet kit), but you may consider a 27.5 pilot at around 1.75 turns. Mine usually takes 3-4 kicks when cold (at dunes, sea level), and fires with 1 super easy kick once warm.

I just re-read it, I believe he may be English, and he was using the abbrev. petrol (gas), but mispelled it. So you may be right, like he is running out of gas? But can't really tell if he is talking about a lean or rich bog? Since it's stock I wouldn't think it should be far off.

Time. No seriously, as long as you are pressing the lock to release it, they will come apart. The moisture, dust etc. just causes them to take a set (really they corrode just slightly which makes for more resistance). If you can work them back and forth, from side to side, ever so slightly, it will make a big difference. But I never use anything in particular, every time you reach for a small screwdriver, it always seems to end up with a broken part.

Sorry man I'm not sure what you're asking?? Sounds like you think your bike is faster than it should be when stock The problem is????

I'm going to stick with what I said when you posted in Repairs/Mods....

LIke they've said, probably no more than about 4 degrees on stock port. I've heard you can get away with a little more if you have a more aggressive port. Also, I would recommend running a mix of race gas, you should be fine with about a 20% mix. You probably don't even need that much, but it makes it easy if you're filling 5 gallon jugs, 1 gallon race : 4 gallons 91 (or 93). Everybody else seems to be giving you an oil mix ratio also... just go by what the manufacturer of your oil recommends. Some synthetics you can run upwards of 100:1, but you'll never get away with that on a petroleum based oil.

I didn't realize, but can't think of a reason why the wouldn't, the PRE offered Cubs. I didn't see them listed on their website, but I guess almost nobody has every product they offer on their site. I just might have to do that, because I have a feeling I may end up with some Cubs before the year is over.

As most will echo I love my T5's, but I ride dunes mostly. Not a big fan when I ride in steep mountain trails (Oregon), so it does depend almost entirely on what type of riding you do, and what future mods you have planned (or not). Kinda sounds like a broken record, no...

VForce is friggin awesome. I found a brand new set on eBay for 199.99 + 10 shipping when I got mine. Agree, adjustable timing plate is good for the 35+ shipping from RS. So you're sitting about $250. I might go for some protection at that point. You could go with a Pro Design High Fow billet impellar, or invest in a good TM (or other if you prefer) case saver. Lots of guys say get rid of the TORS, but I say get rid of it when it starts causing you problems, which mine hasn't yet. Otherwise all you're gaining is some visual and space appeal, as a perfectly functioning TORS system will not limit performance. All of these would keep you right around the $350 total, and should be good for several HP (possibly as much as 5-6).

The age old debate... I have T5's and love them. The standby answer is T6's if you never plan on porting it, they supposedly don't work as well as T5's with porting (even Toomey suggests this). T5's seem to work great either way. But have also heard good stuff about the PT mids, but never tried them personally.

Told you dlnoss was good about checking into the boards.... Oh yeah, check with Boonman, everyone recommended him to me, I've got mine on the way to him right now.

Heard good things about Nology and Dyna FS, but have yet to try either.

It is going to completely depend on the dome size you chose as far as octane goes. Most consider approx 150 psi to be the cutoff for needing to run higher octane. Thus, if you're running a 19cc or smaller dome, you probably will need to run a mix of higher octane (based on Nossmachine.com cylinder psi approximations). Running too low of octane should never be done, you run a serious risk of pre-ignition or worse, detenation. The later of which will usually leave you broke down in a hurry. In my experience running more octane than is required, is really only damaging to the wallet, but I usually run a little more, as opposed to a little less for the obvious reason. I also prefer to cut a little Trick 116, as a result of advancing the timing 4 degrees, but most will tell you it isn't necessary, again just some relatively cheap insurance. DLNoss is usually on from time to time, and is good at responding to items, especially those involving his products, and he would be the definitive source, obviously.

This may very well get moved to the jetting & exhaust forum, but.... My opinion is that you are jetted too lean. I know Toomey sends the "Perfect Jet Kit" with 280's, but they send those jets with the kit that does not replace the airbox as well. I've never been there, but I believe Glamis is at or below sea level correct? When I intalled my T5's with the 2:1 from Toomey (using the UNI filter that came with the kit) I ran 320-330's depending on the temperature. A friend of mine with the same exact mods, at the time, was running the 280's that Toomey sent, and he had a significant loss in power. We rejetted it with 330's and it ran like a champ. So, you probably want to jump your mains to somewhere around 320-340 depending on elevation/temp. Did you switch to the Dynojet needles at the same time also? If so you'll probably find the fourth or fifth clip position (from blunt end) to be very close. You may also need to bump the pilot one size to 27.5, but this can really go either way. Hope this helps, again I am running T5's, but jetting specs seem to be real close from what I've found. edit: Sorry forgot to mention that my jetting figures for my bike were at sea level, approx 60 degrees.

Not to be a grammar nazi, but I believe the word you were looking for was aboration, not abortion. Oh yeah and that truck is seriously gay. I'm all for lifted trucks, but I don't want to have to rent a crane to load my banshee everytime I go to the dunes. Plus try making a turn at more than 15 mph, I bet the thing goes opossum on you, wheels up! edit: oh yeah and like already pointed out, Cummins comes in a straight six.

Pm'd you...

14 would have been the stock front sprocket, so it sounds like you bought one larger in the front and in the back. Like gargamel said, this may be better for more open terrain (I now realize most of the "trails" you guys mention are not like the steep mountain trails I think of here in Oregon), but you probably won't like it nearly as much if you are riding tighter terrain, or in the sand. This is because you have "taller" gearing, which gives the engine less mechanical advantage, as compared to "lower" gearing. Ie. the bike will be better for top speeds, but will be slower out of the hole.

It could be that the float needle and seat are worn out, but I would try to clean the carbs again before just replacing. I had an issue once with a sticky float, that I solved by removing the carb, removing the float bowl and spraying carb cleaner through the inlet where the fuel line attaches. The pressure and carb cleaner fixed the problem right away. The float needles are so sensitive that it is almost always some kind of obstruction keeping the needle from seating that causes the issue. It is possible for the needle/seat to wear out, but it is just usually not the cause.

I'm going to have to back RBD on this one guys. He was simply stating that from his experience reed spacers on the carb side were good for some additional power. I'm always one to want to confirm something before I go spewing it as gospel, so I can't say he is wrong or right. And I will add, that just because a group, however big or reveered, says that it won't make crap difference, doesn't mean they're right. There are so many variables when it comes to engine design and component combinations, that it may not make a bit of difference on your bike with your setup, but it will make 1.5+HP on mine. If he's seen it I can't say he hasn't just because I didn't see it, or somebody tells me it doesn't. And true, I know lots of bench racers. I come from the car world, and let me tell you every toothless moron has a 425HP small block chevy. Sure makes my honest 385 HP I built sound weak, but truth be told their's is lucky to make 250. That's my nickel less three pennies worth.

True, that works great when I'm at the shop. But when I was at the dunes and my stator crapped out on me, hand tools were the only option. Plus I know many guys don't have all the luxuries some of us enjoy in our own shops.

I picked up a tool from Motion Pro, that is a clutch holding tool on one side, and has pins for holding the flywheel on the opposite. It looks much like a set of vise grips but with specialty ends. It works real well, about 30 bucks and you can find them around. Here is a link to the tool I am talking about, at Alba... Alba Motion Pro Clutch/Flywheel Tool This only shows the inner hub holding side, but on the backside of the "jaws" it has the pins that go in the flywheel. Just used mine today, again, and it works slick. It does still help if you have someone to hold the tool while you loosen, but you can make it work with just one person.

Agree! Also, I'm not super familiar with the Klotz, but you should be able to run much leaner oil/fuel ratios if it is in fact a full synthetic. I know some guys run the Amsoil full syn, at 100:1.

Seat of the pants feel may not be drastically affected, but you should see differences if you had it strapped to a dyno. The reason why is because when the engine is cold, with the rings being worn, the compression is lower. The lower compression in turn leads to lower cylinder temperatures, making it harder yet to get ignition (not simply spark, but combustion) for starting. The major key here is temperature, after you kick it 100+ times (or whatever) you've developed enough cylinder temperature that it will finally combust. The reason why you don't see seat of the pants difference is because once it is running heat causes the metal to expand (very slightly but remember the clearances we are talking about), tightening the ring to cylinder wall clearance, and giving you better compression than when it is stone cold. Hope that helps, and yeah it kinda sounds like you need rings, but a compression check will tell for sure.

The theory with putting the reed spacers on the carb side of the reeds, thus spacing the manifolds back slightly, is that you increase the velocity of the intake charge, typically looking for gains in upper RPM power. This is somwhat similar theory to having a single plane intake manifold on a car. By placing the reed spacers on the cylinder side of the reeds, you extend the intake runners, looking for torque gains (similar to dual plane intake manifold theory). With all of that said, I've never had the opportunity to chuck one up on the dyno, and simply switch spacer location to see if it made any difference at all. Most believe that spacers are better for simply clearance issues.

He is running completely different carbs, pilots don't go that high in the stock Mikuni's which I'm sure is what your running based on the pilot and main sizes you quoted. I don't know that I would recommend jumping 2 pilot sizes all at once. You wont hurt anything, by doing this, but you probably only need to go one pilot size, and you won't possibly sacrifice throttle response.