2003LimitedBanshee

All of the mods listed will make the bike run harder. TORS, as mentioned, will not necessarily make it faster, or more reliable (meaning, I never had any problems with my TORS system in 3+ years, and a perfectly functioning TORS does not limit performance in any way). Be forewarned, by shaving the head (raising compression) and running that much timing you should almost certainly need to run around a 50/50 mix of race fuel. Check the compression after you install the head, but unless you are at higher elevation, you will probably need a race blend. As far as the flywheel is concerned, unless they manually grind the section between the pickups (not weights), its pretty hard to lathe between sections when it is rotating. :biggrin: So all lightened flywheels that I have seen are machined this way. You should be pretty happy with those mods. Think about some kind of air filter system to get rid of the airbox, unless you ride in wet, muddy areas.

Me too!!! Count me in for sure!

First off, are you sure you advanced the timing, and you did not retard the timing? Secondly, did you loctite the screws holding the stator to the timing plate after reinstalling? Unfortunately, I did not after installing my timing plate back in the day, and I learned the expensive way after a screw backed out and munched the stator windings. We also need to review how you disassembled everything. I've heard of people that used screwdrivers and all other kinds of improper tools when disassembling and damaged the flywheel and or stator.

I guess in part I would agree with that, but not really. The problem (which you sort of mentioned) is that you cannot, under most any circumstances, get the same quality from a cast piston, as you can from a forged piston. The process of creating each type of piston inherently makes a cast piston less durable than a forged piston. Inclusions, voids, etc. all contribute to weaknesses over a forged piston. I can guarantee that no performance based application would run a cast piston when a forged piston was available.

Two weeks from now. I was going to be porting this month, but I've got a trip planned next weekend (Oct 6th), and rather than risk not getting it done (or rushing it) I decided to put it off until I get back. It will go to the dyno for a baseline the following week, and then tear down, and tear in. After all is done it will go back to the dyno to see what kind of results I was able to pull. I've done all my own tuning, and the bike will be tuned by me before heading to the dyno again, so it will be a true DIY'er. I could not believe how much info they were willing to share, but I hope it pays off. Here is an example of what I am shooting for... Cylinder Pics These were ported by the builder that was forthcoming with all the info. As the discussion followed on PS, notice that the intakes are not huge compared with what many have pics of. I'll keep you updated as my project takes form. Good luck with yours!

From what has been passed along to me, I have heard that T5's really don't work well with port timings much above 194* exhaust duration. Again, not claiming to be a builder, just insight/advice passed to me in my search for porting specs. Wise men have said, you can always take more, but you can't add back on. So, keep that in mind when messing with the port timing. If want a more aggressive grind, take it in incriments. Also, as you change parts, for instance pipes, CPI's and the like will accept more ED more willingly. Also, again, PS has seemed to be the place for the technical discussion. I was amazed at the help and specs I was able to mill through with some (reportedly) reputable sources.

Bingo (and credit to lowriderb too). I understand that you are left will very little cylinder material left, and without additional welding it would certainly crack. Believe some still crack after being welded anyway...

Yep I'm sure that must be what he is talking about. Back when boost ports first came about, some of the first to start doing this with any noteriety was Boyesen. Or so legend has it. To answer your question, banshee0509, boost ports are used in conjuction with drag style porting by many users. However, and I'm not claiming to be a builder, I don't know that those durations etc you were mentioning would be generally classified as a drag port. Also, since I got the impression you are considering porting your own bike, I don't know that this is something I would try first shot out of the hole. Although, you do have to start somewhere. I'm not planning on adding boost ports to my cylinders when I port them in a few weeks, but that is just me. Did you read the link over at PS? Any response on your transfer angle post on PS?

Okay, so I just went to do a run through on the shee gearing up for a trip in two weeks. All checked out good, except when I did a WOT plug check I came up with a yellow plug in the left cylinder and a slightly less but still yellow plug in the right cylinder. Mods in sig, but also running 100% Trick 114. Heard this could be a side effect of running a leaded race fuel, but also read on PS where a guy was told that it meant he was burning coolant. Bike does not appear to be losing coolant (evap in combustion chamber). Looking for some input before pulling head, or testing cooling system for hydrocarbons.

Needle position? Revving under no load tells you little to nothing. The pilot is probably pretty close, maybe a bit big, but you didn't mention where your air screws are set. If your plugs are reading lean, have you checked for air leaks? What "style" porting do you have... drag, dune, woods etc? Temperature? The main might be a little small, but I wouldn't guess a bunch depending on what some of the answers to the other questions are. A bog down low would direct me to the pilot or needle circuit depending on what RPM range showed the bog. BUT, address the main jetting first as it will play a minor role in changing even your low RPM jetting. Hoepfully this give us a direction to work from.

I ran Boyesen reeds and thought they made a difference. But when I switched to VF3's it was a whole new world! Def worth the $200, well, I should ask what other mods you have. If you've got a stock bike and you throw a set of VF3's at it, you probably won't be very happy. But, combined with some other mods, pipes, filter etc. you won't be disappointed. Not sure how much dyno difference they make, but the throttle response is def improved.

Not to be a TOTAL ass (a small one probably), but if you've read a lot about crank seals, and you've got the tell tale signs of a crank seal, do you really need to ask? If you want to check further, are you low on tranny oil? But I'd say you've already got your answers.

If it is a constant white smoke all the time out the right pipe, I believe someone one time described it as smelling like "burning gym socks", then you likely have a crank seal problem. If you didn't have this problem before my money would def be on a crank seal. A carb sync issue shouldn't cause excessive smoke out one pipe, or oil at the head pipe nipple.

This topic has been covered a bit before, and a while back someone posted a pic or two that showed exactly what was removed. I have definitely heard that the TDR reeds and the ported cages are the only combo to look at for a ported cage. Like was said, you remove the center bridge, and lengthen the opening in the cage. As I recall there isn't a great deal of width to be gained. I would also plan to save for a set of VF3's, as I can vouch they made a noticeable difference.

Agree with dawarriorman, if you had a complete airbox, even with a K&N element you would probably gain 3+ hp. With my T5's Toomey sent 280's if you were going to mod the airbox, vents and no snorkel, but running the 2:1 Unifilter setup, I ended up going with a set of 340's. So you figure the amount of air it takes to compliment 6 jet sizes and it should be worth 3 HP.

I think the key here was "90 degrees outside". Sounds like you have a jetting issue. Without changing your jetting, as the temperature increases, the air becomes less dense, less oxygen, and thus your air/fuel decreases. More parts fuel for every part air (technically fewer parts air for every part fuel). So what I am getting at is, as the temp increases your jetting will become richer with no other changes. I'd have to wonder how "light brownish" the one plug is, as one person's interpretation is different from another's. I would say you should be shooting for a light chocolate milk color. If you are finding the plugs wet after a failure (foul) then you need to decrease your jetting. You'll have to remove your filtration (in whatever form), remove the carbs, set them on the work bench and take the carb bowls off the bottom. You'll see a brass colored hexagon jet with a small hole and a number stamped in the "face" of it. From what it sounds like since you are rich you'll need to get a set of jets from someone (dealerships actually haven't been to bad on these prices from what I've found) probably one size smaller, but it could be two. After reassembling you'll need to warm up the bike, and do a Wide Open Throttle check. Run it through the gears and pin it in sixth, then while holding it wide open for about 6-10 seconds pull the clutch and immediately hit the kill switch, but don't let off the throttle until you've hit the kill switch. Then check the color of your plugs. Some guys say new, but as long as they aren't fouled you can do just as good on a slightly used set.

I haven't run any tests with actual numbers, but I can tell you that from a theory standpoint yes it should help with cooling. The main reason for upgrading however, is because the stock impellers are prone to failing. Mine, never failed me, but it was more of an insurance for me. Now, about cooling. As I said, in theory they will provide better cooling. The stock impeller is what I would call an open vein design. Near the center of the impeller the veins aren't present so there is a void. Sorry kind of hard for me to explain for some reason. Whereas, the billet impellers are closed all the way to the center. In my opinion, the open vein should allow for some cavitation or inefficiency in the stock impeller, but the billet would essentially be forced to pump all the coolant with every rotation. Thus, the reason why I would conclude that it is better at cooling.

The templates come from RaceLogic; but they don't address the transfers with much (if any really) detail. If you want to get more info on porting you should check out Planet Sand. I posted a thread a while back over there, and got some real good info. Although I love his flywheel , I have to disagree with Boonman. Everyone starts somewhere, and one of the best ways to get started is to ask questions. The couple porters that hang around here haven't really released their opinions on the ideal mix, and that is by all means their right. Planet Sand Porting Thread Also, you will need a right angle porting tool to get into the transfers properly. The tool I bought from CC Specialties ran me $335 without any burrs, wheels etc. Not to knock the guys around here (many that frequent build some killer motors), but Planet Sand seems to have more technical, precise discussion available.

You're still better off with the timing plate; I think anyone will tell you that. For one, no one has ever had a timing plate sheer, and that alone makes it worth the few extra dollars over a timing key. Plus, every banshee starts as "just pipes..." but you'll probably end up doing more, which will likely be complimented by more timing. Just my $.02

The jet size should be stamped on the "face" of the jet. Opposite the end that threads in, you should see the size stamping.

First, no offense, but you've been a member for 4+ years and you aren't exactly sure what the gains of an adjustable timing plate are? Nonetheless, by advancing the timing you can help increase the lower RPM range power of the engine. Most guys run around +4 as a general rule, but you can run more timing if you have ported it, and thus changed the port timing. If you are turning out 55+ at the rear wheels then I'm assuming the bike must have a pretty decent amount of work. So, you may be able to run more timing. Many guys will run in the +7 range with an aggressive dune or drag ported cylinder.

I'm running a NOSS Head with 20cc domes and +4 timing on my stock crank. Until I tear it down this winter and port it. But, it is definitely on the upper end. At sea level it pushes out just over 190 psi in each cylinder. Straight Trick 116 only.

Not to be a smart ass but, "Didn't do this before"... what? Have you changed something, new mods, new location, different temps etc.?

Brad, sorry I don't have anything to add at this point, but I couldn't let a comment like this go. I am definitely not a newbie and I reference my Clymer fairly regularly. Torque specs, tolerances etc. but I guess if "about that tight" is good enough for you, keep it in the door stop.

Okay, now don't laugh, but I am exploring the possibility of picking up a Raptor for screwing around on the dunes. I honestly just rode one for the first time this last weekend, and I loved it for wheelie-ing. No, I am not getting rid of my Banshee, I would only ride this to wheelie. I have always liked wheelie-ing and never could quite wheelie with the 4-pokes, after riding this Raptor for about 5 minutes I was walking them for 200+ yards, so much easier. Anyway, I was thinking about picking one up just for screwing around from time to time. Not really interested in a 450, as I'm keeping my shee for going fast and hill-climbing in the dunes, just something with monster torque. Honestly, I am looking for a good runner, nothing wrecked or rusted out, but fender scuffs, some frame rub from boots is okay. Also, since I am just looking to screw around not looking to spend very much, piped/filtered a plus. Hopefully, near Southern Oregon, but open to west coast options for right price. Let me know what you got, pics, prices etc. Or if you've got buddies, whatever.