2003LimitedBanshee

I do believe you should be fine with that compression and advanced timing. I assume you must be on a stock head, or at elevation with an aftermarket? Personally I ran a mix of 20% race (Trick 116) when I advanced my timing by 4*, but I think most will tell you that you are fine, and I cannot say that you wouldn't be fine. If you want to be absolute positive, mix 20% race, cheap insurance in my book and a low mix like that wont make a noticeable decrease if you don't need it.

I swapped over to a DID X-ring about a month ago or so and have been very pleased so far. Rocky Mountain ATV has them for around $70, I think. Rocky Mountain ATV. As far as gearing is concerned, it all depends on what kind of riding you do and the other mods you have. I run 13/42, but I only ride the sand, duning. So it really helps to know what you are going to be doing to help determine gearing.

At last check, the NOSS head was 247.50 for an anodized head with domes to an HQ member (make sure and mention that to dlnoss). I think the unanodized heads are $10 or $20 cheaper. Like sredish said, you may not gain a ton of compression over the stock head, but you will definitely gain cooling. Cooler temps are as good as horsepower (well they are horsepower actually). Obviously, if you do not want to run race gas, then you won't really be able to gain any compression by going with an aftermarket because I'm guessing you are very near that threshold right now (post compression when you get a chance). But, if you don't mind running race fuel, you can bump the compression up with smaller domes, and maintain a properly shaped combustion chamber with the aftermarket head.

My prediction: You're gonna get stomped. Now, I'm not saying that for you or the mods you have currently, since you have a bit more under the hood than me. But, gearing is going to be the big problem. In the 1/8th you could gear and get him, but to gear it for the 1/4 you won't be near as fast out of the hole over the 1/8th. I ran at the drags near my home last weekend and it was fairly competitive between the quaders. But, there were street bikes (driven in off the street with DOT tires in street trim) turning high 10's low 11's in the quarter at about 120-130. I know there is no way I could get my Banshee to turn that in the quarter so...

1.6 US quarts for a change, 1.8 US quarts on a total disassembly. I personally put 1.8 quarts in every change. I always warm the bike up by riding around for a few minutes, then drain and refill. I put 1.6 quarts in on my first change, years ago, and it didn't seem to fill it up to my liking.

Not black anodizing. I've had several people look my bike over from 5 or so feet and not notice for several minutes that I had a NOSS head. Just what I was going for. Plus, it makes a great cooling and performance difference! I went to 20cc domes and with my timing I run full race gas. But, all you have to do is order bigger domes and you can still run pump gas.

Okay, now I don't know exactly the mod you are talking about. But, if I understand the conversation here, you are removing the stock "stuffer" which has the round intake area, before the reeds themselves, from the carb end? Then you replace that with a more open "stuffer" so that the airflow is not restricted. Now, correct me if I'm wrong but, this would only be an issue (and I would think minor at worst) if you were running different carbs. As I remember when I installed my VF3's, and it has been a while, but the intake "stuffer" was about the same size as the reed side of the carb bore; so, it would be no more restrictive than the outlet side of the carb bore, right? Plus, velocity has to be taken into account. You increase the area, you in turn decrease the velocity, so I think application and other factors have to be considered.

Exactly! The old hot rod addage applies here to: "Speed costs money... How fast you wanna go?" But it will be more like how fast can I go on the amount of money I have, because you'll probably want to go faster than your pockets are deep.

Absolutely without a doubt PIPES!! and intake. Like dEcon said, what kind of riding do you do. Let's see then you could go, timing, reeds, porting, carbs, new pipes, suspension. Oops sorry, welcome to the sickness and BHQ.

Thanks. Pretty much, but not entirely I guess. The stock 450 plug is a triangular, similar to TORS, type plug. All the colors were exactly the same, so you couldn't really screw it up. I just cut the stock 450 plug off and soldered/heat shrinked some new connecters on to the 450 taillight wires and plugged them into the stock bullet connectors on the back of the shee. Just for cleanliness I rewrapped the wires with harness wrap and tucked it up. The bracket took me the longest out of the whole deal, but only an evening after work to design, cut, break and mount. I tucked the light farther under the bike just so it wasn't hanging out in the middle of nowhere.

Not trying to insult you, but, if you're already running without a lid and you don't have a ProFlow adapter you're already doing it wrong. The airbox lid is required to properly retain the stock filter element base. So either you must already have a ProFlow adapter, or you should be ordering one with that filter. Yes, I would get that if you are going to stick with an airbox. For one it WILL outflow the stock filter, and it will filter the junk out better. You should be able to find a ProFlow on Magic. Never looked at their site before, but can't imagine they wouldn't sell one. :beer:

Sorry about that guys. I haven't checked this forum in a while. Only six months behind when I planned on posting pics. No one seemed interested at the time so I just never put it through. Been done and it has worked great. Let me know what you think. Easier to just post in Photobucket so here you go... Taillight 1: Clicky Click for link to pic Taillight and Bracket: Another Clicky Click Taillight in Dark: One more for the road...

Actually the impellers are more efficient because they are a closed vain design. The stock plastic impeller, besides apparently having a tendency to strip is an open center vain design. Thus there will be some cavation near the shaft, whereas the Pro Design etc is a closed center, so it is more of a positive displacement design.

Actually it would be around 2.52. There are 25.4 mm to an inch so. You measured 2.575 so you're at 65.405 mm, which sounds odd. But you'd be looking at a 65.5 mm at the least, don't know if that is possible to get it cleaned out in .10mm, but you should be able to go to 66mm if 65.5 doesn't clean it out. Usually min bore/hone is .010" which is .254mm so you're looking at going with a 66mm if I'm not asleep at the calculator.

Short answer, the higher compression makes the bike slightly less efficient at higher RPMs making for a slight decrease in top end power. The bike will not want to turn quite the RPMs with the higher compression etc... But, you should be noticing a good increase in the bottom end torque with compression in that range.

Yes it does, because all aftermarket heads I'm aware of run a milled billet block and hose barb for this piece. What you are looking at is the coolant line heading down to the water impeller, then to be pumped back up to the radiator. Notice the line coming from your radiator to the front of the head? The line on the back is your return line.

Okay so it sounds like you've got a fuel problem. I still agree that anyone who wants to work on ANYTHING should have a compression tester, but you may have problems elsewhere for now. What you did by blowing in the "long line" was pressurize the float bowl, in theory forcing gas up into the carb where it could be drawn in with the intake air. Since it started but you had to hold the choke wide open, sounds to me like a fuel problem. Have you checked to see if the pilot jets are plugged? Do you know what I mean by pilot jets, maybe to start? But long story short sounds like fuel this time. Do you have a Clymer's Manual, if not it would be a very good $30 or so investment for you.

Advancing the timing doesn't increase your compression. It does, however, create the need to run higher octane fuel, especially in conjuction with higher compression. I hear that around 155 psi (no timing advance) or so you need to start running a mix of race gas. When I put 4* of timing (stock 122psi compression) in my bike I ran 20% Trick 116 to be safe. Now that I have 175 psi (190+ at sea level) and 4* timing I run straight Trick 116. Let us know what your compression psi is and then we can talk more.

I got to 175 psi when I put my NOSS head on with 20cc domes. That's at 1980' feet by the way. Over 190 psi at sea level, with a new Snap-On compression tester I might add. Are you running any timing advance? With my compression and 4* advance I run straight Trick 116 just to be on the safe side.

If he's on that kind of an incline he might flip it by blipping the clutch. But, I think that lever may still be part of the problem. From my experience hill-climbing, duning whatever... you have to be either in the power or very near to it. You're not going to lug along and just pull it up into the power.

Yeah I know, I definitely didn't mean to represent that I was the first to start a thread about port timings etc. etc. csrmel, I know it took me about 5-7 days I think before I got my admin authorization. Did you ever try re-registering? Believe me it's worth it. You've got some of the big names in the Banshee world that frequent that site, pretty regularly.

Isn't it nice when we can all get along? Red turned me onto PS not that long ago, and I definitely do a whole lot of "listening", reading. The technical discussion over there is second to none, that I've found so far. You've got some of the top builders posting around there with regularity. I have to wonder if that port timing, and porting advice was in reference to the thread I started over on PS Red? Got my Foredom stuff coming, and will order my CC Specialty 90* tomorrow if they're open. Going to the dunes next Friday then it comes apart. I definitely felt smart around here, but felt WAY stupid once I started reading some threads over on PS. No offense to anyone here, but there are some building freaks over there.

Red, I kind of have to agree with him from one angle. I feel I know my stuff pretty well, but I am also very aware that I can always learn more. Good for instance, I didn't know about piston wash, and from the look of those pics if they're legit, I am on the lean side. Now, I don't think that would be the case since I'm on the same top end for the last 15-16 months (probably around 80 hours or so), but hey new info to take a look at. Plus, I'm not sure how an attitude, of any sort, is beneficial to the advancement of knowledge or the sport. I look at everything that's presented as a way to make myself smarter. Maybe from experience I know that point 1,2 & 3 aren't right, but that just gives the opportunity to help someone else learn. I never want to surround myself with people who all know less than me, because I will never learn from them. Okay, somebody take this damn soapbox away from me!

I guess you could look at it that way, but you could also look at it from the angle that it has probably run hotter all that time. The gas also provides some cooling, because a rich oil mix ratio, also means a leaner fuel ratio. Leaner = hotter... so. I believe Yamalube is a 100% petroleum base? correct me if I'm wrong. Like fastcar01 said, the manufacturer of the OIL sets the mix ratio based on how the oil performs at different ratios. Believe me if a manufacturer says it's safe at a certain ratio, they've tested it to be safe.

Exactly, that's the RUMOR. But I've also heard that Yamaha has unarguably said there will NOT be another Banshee. They will likely come out with another quad, but it won't be called a Banshee, and I would highly doubt a two-stroke model. 4pokes are the unfortunate reality of the times we live in now.