trickedcarbine

Lightest won't be the strongest.

God damnit. I need these shocks and I spent a nut on hardware instead. Shit!

The new ones are pretty cool though. Should have more clearance and be a bit more solid.

I concur.

^ basically it's plugs in the exhaust, two caps on the intakes with a valve stem and pressure gauge. Put 6 psi in it and it should hold for 5-6 minutes.

What bore, stroke, dome cc's, & timing? If a motor was built to run on pump gas, just throwing race fuel with high octane will actually lose power. What jetting in the carbs?

Need

Definitely check for an air leak. It'll melt shit down quick if there is an air leak.

Roger Allen is on Facebook. He owns Wicked ATV.

Hit up D&M. They're in AZ.

As far as all the wear items in the low end, replace most of it with OEM. However things like clutch parts, and pancake bearing will be best to go aftermarket. As far as the Pro Mod, it's basically just machining a few items on the gear set itself and some guys do a bearing on the end of the shift drum and smooth out the tips on the shift star so the roller on the detent arm moves over them smoother. It allows you to be about as mean as you want to the trans and it'll be like going from an old muscle car trans, to a new Tremec. As long as you know how to prep gasket surfaces and torque it all properly, it should live just fine. More often then not, it's something silly that causes melt downs. A reed gasket not sealing, or guys who kill a top end due to crank seals, but just do another top end. 9 times outta 10, it's something just over looked.

With that amount of time on a motor, you need to be thinking about far more then just replacing the Pistons and crank. There are several wear items that are in the low end and if you are splitting the cases, it makes sense to take care of it all at once so you don't need to deal with it again. Things like the Transmission bearings, shift shaft, shift eccentric screw, any easier shifting mods, all clutch parts, crank seals, pancake bearing, clutch actuator arm, shift rod and ball, maybe even do a Pro Mod transmission so it shifts nice and easy. Pretty sure Jeff at FAST has a whole package price for all that type of stuff with all the little special OEM clips and washer type stuff. Now is definitely the time to handle it all. In all reality, Banshee's are about as easy as they come. You have the Clymer's manual and if you've read it all, you should be good to go. If you're not sure, hit up D&M racing and talk to Doug or Shane.

99% of the 421 motors out there perform better with a small bore pipes. The typical cut off point is about 500cc's depending on pipe manufacturer.

Toomey sends all the goods.

Fireball, Lonestar, Laegers, or JL for the swinger should suffice. I believe Tim at Stellar is slowing down on some fab work.

Hmm, shouldn't be having any of that trouble. Definitely replace all the hard parts, add a new bushing on the basket, make sure trans shaft end play bad isn't bad, and try three and three combo of springs. If it's all new I can't see how it would keep doing that.

Driveline lock up or finger style lock up?

So you need cylinders and carbs? It may make sense to deal with someone like Driveline.

Garbage

What seller? More often then not, it's garbage.

Anything one piece is the way to go.

35's will be a bit to big for that. Go for the 28's or keep the stock carbs.

Correct. Spacers are for stroker set ups. Even then there are ways around them.

110mm rod is standard. 115 rod will require 795.

Hit up Kompulsive Concepts.