trickedcarbine

If you had a little stock cylinder and complain that jetting two carbs is hard, maybe I’d agree. But that 7mm is so much motor, you’d be really holding it back with a 2/1. Twins will definitely be the way to go. 35’s will be the most reccomended, but if you do a lot of tight riding and need it to light right away you can try a set of 33’s.

Ethanol. Toss them in chem dip every now and again.

Detonation if it's emu hint the end of the plug closed. Probably time to up the octane. Especially if it's really hot out. Any timing? And check your reeds if you've verified the Pistons/cylinders are in ok shape. More often then not, worn out or broken reeds are the culprit for backfiring if the rest of the set up is proper.

Time for new. Where the hell ya been?

All I had to do was use the longer Keihin adjusters from FAST and grind the nub in the throttle housing.

Did you do any grinding on the stop?

I'll call my buddy up at the core warehouse I was working in.

DDQ for president in 2020!

I've found some very cool replacements from RX350 transmissions as well.

How is it that I dabble in the devil's lettuce regularly and always remember to tighten the hardware?

You split the cases? A motor seizure lie you're explaining is usually crank related. You need to do a properly check parts for spec and do a proper rebuild.

Being that you were always in to the Billit, I'd say you would definitely take a liking to the bigger Serval stuff. The DM stuff is also finally quite sorted out compared to when you went SxS. Pipe game has not been to crazy, however those pipes that Jim & Gary made crazy claims about are actually holding true. Arlan at LED has his guy cranking out all kinds of gorgeous hand coned stuff as well. There are a few other fella's making nice pipes. Kenny Roberts stuff is tits. Folks are chasing super light weight numbers even on duners now, even glass is to heavy, lol. Damn glad to see ya back.

Stock. The inertia will help keep momentum through turns so the motor jumps right back in to the rev. If you weigh over 120 LBS. you'll definitely not wanna do a lightened flywheel.

Pro Circuit does have a USF approved silencer. There is also the Toomey stuff, but I've just never been a fan of the Toomey performance. You could also do SLP's and I believe JDS is making sparky tips for them.

Wasn't that the cool Tatted up chick that actually rode, and he left for a hot little spinner that likes to "hike"? Lol Rob, if you see this, you never told us whether the new one gave better head or not. Lol

Welcome back. If I were you, I'd get new air filters or at least clean yours as they tend to go stiff over several years. Definitely pull the carbs and at least give them a quick cleaning. New fuel, plugs, coolant, and oil. Spray a little Wd-40 or two stroke oil through the plug hole before start up. Check the pick up gap on the flywheel. Clean any grounds and dialectric grease all the plugs on the harness.

Yes. Typically you can get genuine mikuni boots that fit just about any manifold.

Ya... It shouldn't keep coming out. But yes, always use new seals when doing any service.

New seal every time.

OP, you're better off hanging on to it and running it. They are tits, but the trail/dune guys aren't spending the money like they used to. No disrespect, but if you listed it around $400, it would go instantly. But if you're sure it's worth more, you should just bolt it on a bike and keep it.

I loved that arm and regret selling it as I am getting back in to trails as we can't get a decent winter to ice race anymore.

Check the vent over the rear motor mount. Often the tubes gets gummed up with crud or the vent itself gets clogged.

The only time I've ever liked that much compression is when I ran 1/8th mile oval. But any time you're running all the way through the gears and revving it out,by hate just to much compression for a banshee motor. Some 250R stuff does ok with that, not these twins though.

Two ways of making it work. The old school way of stroking was to put a spacer plate under the crank to make up for the added stroke and keep it from smashing the piston in to the head/dome. There are several reasons to avoid doing it this way. First, you raise the ports up and it makes the motor come on slower. Second, the ports aren't totally optimized for the stroke, negating the benefit of stroke. Plus the plate adds one more base gasket which is another air leak prone area that will quickly melt a motor. In recent years, guys have began setting up 4 mil strokers with the cylinders in the factory location instead of up on a plate. One gasket, or even just liquid sealant. Less prone to leak, and it keeps the ports lower so that the motor comes on a bit sooner. They adjust portwork for the desired ride style and cut the domes or factory chambers for fuel/compression needs. The domes are cut with a step to allow the piston crown to come up out of the deck and still not collide with the dome. This is the far more reliable and better running set up. I've got a few 4 mils on the bench and have tried several set ups and the non plate stuff always seems to live longer and hit a touch earlier if you're not doing a drag only set up.

When are you gonna get a bitchin' Redline Supa Dupa Serv (74mm) in the SE bike?