trickedcarbine

^yup

Drag racing?

I recall the WSM big bore stuff was 12* not 13*. Does the 1* even make much of a difference?

Switching to those mids will definitely get it motivated earlier then the CPI's. I would suggest not selling you're CPI's if you have any plans to do a bigger motor in the future though. Or at least ride it with the Mids before selling the CPI's.

You'll need to measure the deck height, and know your piston part number. Call or email a shop willing to ship to you. Fast, Noss, etc... Give them the deck height (how high the edge of the crown sits above the cylinder at TDC.) Then make sure they know what piston you're running and they can set up the domes to fit the profile of the WSM pistons which are a little different then typical Weisco options. My old short track motors were big bore stock cylinder set ups, so let me know if you have any other questions.

35mm PWK's are awesome on the right motor. What are you wanting to put some on?

Even though Special06 is a quitter and sold his, I must agree with him on starting with a complete donor bike.

Find a nice used 4mm Serval motor. 4mm is typically the most stroke that fits in stock cases with out modification and a Serval cylinder is a very common aftermarket cylinder that is set up with porting that is aimed more toward the recreational/trail riders. Motors like that are capable of making about 80hp and 50 ft lbs of torque on pump gas and not much timing. To make a stock cylinder motor do that is gonna take a lot of compression, timing, and expensive fuel.

There's a few questions that'll need to be answered to steer you in the right direction. What is you're intended use for it? What is your budget? How mechanically inclined are you?

Hopefully in the trash. Stuff was junk.

Tony Doukas at TDR will have everything you will ever need for a T Rex

28mm PWK's FTW

Interesting. That's under the cowl?

This is actually what the local performance diesel shop sold me a case of.

Never mind, I see he says he has spacers.

Carbs won't clear the clutch arm using UPP with out reed spacers.

The majority are falling back to OEM as they are tried and true, as well as quite light.

I've never owned one with a thumb. I bought my first one specifically because it was a twist since I started on bikes. I rode my buddy's 400ex as a kid and said no way to thumb.

I think anyone who starts on a bike is able to hang on. Although I did have a couple close calls as a youngster.

If you have larger carbs you will want to order the longer adjusters that thread in to the carb tops.

Oh, if money ain't an issue, Roger at Wicked is making some bad ass bead locks.

OMF's are tits! Close second is DWT. I bought Hipers a few seasons ago and immediately sold them. Just heavy as hell. In all honesty, if you're not riding really technical stuff with low pressure, I'd reccomend the ITP Baja's. I love mine on the trail bike and they have been abused since 2010.

Nerfs have the stainless pegs, correct? And what weight rider were the PEP's set up for?

There are a variety of quality replacements that are beefed up. I even did kryptonite parts on my 1500. Their 2500 stuff is stout!

How do you like that aside step on there? I hate the round style. I have OEM's on my Sierra, and this Silverado has knock offs and the plastic is slick as fuck.