No R1's in that pic. CPI OOF's, Big bore Shearers, Toomeys, and the CT inframe Drag pipes are on the bike. You got the best set of shearers I've owned, and the Rockets went to Whitbread. I do have a set of GRR Suicide inframes at the chromer though.
For now... But since you jinxed it, it's only a matter of time before cam is snorting lines of Vicodin off Chinese midget titties in the dyno cell, and partying deposits away in gay clubs. Thanks ya fuck!
Sounds like the basics have been mentioned. However, did you need to wrestle the air box in? It's possible you cracked an intake boot and have an air leak and that is what's causing the lean hang on idle. The switch you made should definitely not be idling high unless carbs were adjusted or a cable is out of place. If all that's good, look in to the air leak.
The mark lines up before the lever goes on. You should be able to pull the actuator over by hand and be roughly close when the shift rod, ball, and adjuster make contact. Loosen the lever adjuster all the way, then hook up the cable. Once hooked up adjust the lever. Do you own a Clymer's manual?
Look on the Beringer Brakes website. They got what you need if you're serious. Definitely don't think the rear master can push enough fluid to activate all three calipers effectively.
Definitely feed it better fuel. Also, any idea who set the motor up? Is it just box stock Trinity? You may wanna check a few things over to be sure it's got a few key items corrected.