trickedcarbine

LED’s don’t need the high output like the big ol’ halogen or HID lights.

That^ LOCO may be willing to help out if you’re not a total doofus and are sort of able to take direction. Time to just bite the bullet and do a full year down. Give it a once over now and you won’t have to keep taking it apart to fix one item at a time. Call FAST and ask if they are still doing their lower end package. It’s all the odd clips, retainers, and wear items that go in the motor.

Been fooling with the Solo Shot over the last year and it’s getting pretty sweet.

Hit up Robert Pierce on Facebook. He is SheeRider here and has a nice set of rebuilt Axis shocks for a banshee he has been wanting to sell or trade for floats.

Roger at Wicked has actually already done that. Lol

Yes. Especially when that shed gets some sun on a cold day. Everything starts to condensate. Inside the motor is no exception.

Any time you are not on the throttle you need to have the clutch pulled in.

Any of the high temp fire blanket/insulation stuff I’d say is worth trying.

10 hours of riding and the typical pink stuff is about toast.

https://www.atvdragracers.com/forum/two-stroke-technical/7139-duneable-override-spring-balance-adjustment.html#/topics/7139

Wait. You had a dunable over ride, right? Any glitter when changing oil? I’d be wanting to inspect shift forks as well if the clutch components seem ok. There is a specific way to ride an over ride trans to not hurt it.

Shearers come with Owens Corning insulation. It’s like a grey/tan mix R13-15 for 2x4’s. Not bad and it sounds good, but won’t live long. The steel wool or pot scrubbers definitely sound super raspy and live a long while. The finer you go on the steel wool the more quiet it will get, but live a little shorter. I just did my CPI OOF’s with Roxul Fire Insulation. They pretty raspy but are still quieter. No idea how long it will live yet.

Most guys do drag only type stuff. But there are a few folks out there. Be prepared spend a decent chunk of change when you do find someone willing to do one. Maybe buy a Turbo Chassis look alike and finish all the mounts and stuff your self. Or just Hawkeye the for sale pages till an outlaw, eliminator, or LSR stock style pops up. There are a ton of guys who will modify a stock frame though as well. But a good one still gets up around 3k plus swing arm, a arms, and all the hardware. So there’s a few options for sure.

Matt Whitbread’s was a T-Rex. Also an early driveline set up. He’s still got it up in Cadillac Mi. I wish he could get caught up so we can EFI my 535.

Yep. Gotta carefully grind that weld off.

Your clymer manual should show how to check that it’s still in spec. You’ll need a set of V blocks and dial indicator on a magnetic base and a set of feeler gauges. If it is not something you are sure about, there are plenty of builders who can true it and weld the pin and swap the outer bearings.

Makes more sense.

265 in keihins?

This thing is fucking sweet!

I got a deal on some Mattoon DM cases. So, better luck with 120mm or 115mm rods? How is piston availablility if I go 120mm?

Paint pen, metallic sharpie, or white out on the choke knobs helps keep track of where they are.

That sounds close. Do you have it idling and running at this point?

Swing arm game has got a little cooler since your hiatus. Lots of very cool arched ladder style stuff from a few quality chassis parts guys.

Bummer Greg fell out. Lots of folks doing trannies now only know what they do because they tore one of his apart. He was an innovator in the trans department and tried lots of quirky stuff. Some worked and some didn’t. My WCR pro mod shifts like butter and I’ll never sell it.

Wössner or WSM. TDR typically has the WSM’s in stock.