trickedcarbine

Definitely do a stainless bolt kit, but make sure to only run OEM or equivelant on the pivot bolt, A Arms, and shocks.

You will need regular style 513 banshee style pistons for a stock crank. If you want the blaster pistons to work, you’ll need to do a crank with 115 rods.

That motor needs race gas before you burn it down. Way to much compression and timing to be on pump gas. If you intend to keep running 91 octane, you’ll need to dial it back to 4-5 degrees max timing and get some new domes cut for pump fuel. Your idle for PJ carbs is done with the choke knob. Turn them all the way in, Mark them with a paint pen to keep track of how many turns out they are. They should be between 6-8 turns out. The air screw on the side of he carb should be 3/4-2 turns out on PJ’s. Any higher or lower you’ll want different pilots in them.

Mid 30’s

Timing plate at +4, 28mm carbs, pod filters, cool head and custom domes, and lots of suspension.

What needles?

35’s if there are tight hill shoots and spots where you need more throttle response. But if it’s mostly wide open dune cruising, drags, and hill shooting the 39’s will dominate.

No graph here. I will see if my guy at the dyno can email one. The Cheetah is just a clean up port with lots of case work. 39 pwk’s, 7 degrees, race gas Titan domes, Sniper big bores. Consistent 5-7 hp over the Big Bore Shearers that it came with.

Stator could certainly cause those issues. It’s definitely not those pipes. The Vito’s pipes should be happy in an RPM range between the CPI’s and Shearers. They are not the issue.

Super. Especially if you wanna go sleeperish. Most guys looking at it won’t know what it is. And of the few that catch that it’s a cub of some sort, won’t know exactly what you’ve got. Once you go DM, the intakes, the cooling hoses, and just sheer size of the cylinder give it away right away that it’s no little cub.

Get the arrows close. Then adjust the nut at the end of the shaft in the middle of the plate.

^that.

Just go alky. It’s all the same work, yet alky is far more clean, consistent, and better power to be had. The E85 is just so inconsistent from a pump. It’s fine for a car that can keep electronically changing on the fly. But for carb motor, it would mean making adjustments.

We have a member here that could handle that for you. Paging Claude...

Here’s a dms build.

You’ll want 21-22 cc domes for that fuel.

27.5 pilot. What filter is on the 2-1 intake. K & N style or Foam?

10/4. I’ll do some digging on graphs. Testing mine showed pretty smooth transition all the way up. They were BB’ on a 535 Cheetah though.

Flat spot? What graphs are you seeing? Mine was a big bore set, so it could be different. But there was no flat spot. None on the smaller cub stuff I’ve seen either.

Maybe. But my Laeger swing arm from that era didn’t look like that.

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/locks-landing/product-details-motorcycle.html

Kryptonite brand chain saved mine. There were two exploded cut off wheels on the ground after the neighborhood kids gave it a go a few years back. I have it attached to a steel D ring anchored to the concrete using Hilti epoxy and RedHead concrete anchors. The epoxy is in the holes for the lags, on the threads for the fastening nut, and the plate to the floor surface. I then took a junk socket that was a little big and rounded off the hex nuts.

So... Is this thing still around?

Yeah. I was way pissed and pushed for some accessories/updates after dealing with all the headaches and issues. After the wait, they didn’t work well indoors, and they didn’t do well in the cold. So they sent a cold weather battery pack and cover, and they sent a new update and attachment for the indoor use. I’m not totally sold on all of this, but I admit the concept is pretty cool. It’s nust gonna take some patience to see folks perfect the technology and software.

I ordered a Mishimoto Intercooler and piping for my Duramax and it’s decent quality workmanship. Fit was not bad considering I went from OEM to Custom. My buddy also runs their Rad and Intercooler on his Evo, equally as nice as what I put in my truck. I you keep your eyes peeled, there are tons of old Torch Works, Blue Torch Fab, PWR, & Toomey radiators for under $100 in awesome condition. If not, those cheap ASI ones on EBay are getting surprisingly good results.