trickedcarbine

I just switched to the blaster and r6 combo my self this winter for ice and flat track. It is FUCKING TITTIES!!!!!!! I don't know of any combo that works so flawless for the flat stuff with out shelling out big bucks for custom shocks. The 300 ex are 13 inch and an inch lower then the blaster but if wou want functional weight transfer the blaster shock will be the money shot. If you are interested in very specific info on mounting the R6 rear, pm me and I will give you a sweet way to do it with out having custom bushings made at a shop.

As far as the bigbore sleeve kit, ehhhh......it's ok. I personally run them, but not by preference. I bought them back in like 2002 when the only better setup was a mono jug or dune/drag only twister jug. When I first built these jugs with no real port work they were quicker then any thing I raced except for the dune bikes at silver lake, and even there it held it's own. Almost a decade later technology has reigned supreme and proven big bore sleeves to be obselete due to their habbit of choking down transfers, making a new style aftermarket cylinder a more desirable and cost effective bang for the buck. Problem is that now most big bore cylinders are DUNE/DRAG so that there aren't many choices for the true TRAIL/PLAY bikes. Unless of course you have a bottomless pocket and order a Cheetah with powervalves or a similar pv cylinder. In comes VITO's with a STEALTH JUG. Big bore with free flowing ports, and for the same cost as buying sleeves, machining them, and porting them. These cylinders are PROVEN and are a potent combo in the trails and even ok in the dunes. they have a low end that no cub will ever produce and if you decide you want the top end of a cub these will come close with some thurough massaging of the ports. So yes, the vito's jugs are worth the money, granted you are thinking of running a stroker to accompany them, but if money is still to tight to both stroke and run big bores, then run a stroker crank first and port your stock jugs for your riding. Then you can buy a vito's kit to match your stroke out of the box. If you are not a Dune/Drag guy and live in the trails and maybe go out to the dunes every now and again then these would be an awsome setup for a trail guy with a big set of nuts.

Ok, I am just wanting to throw a few tricks out there that I have come up with for ice and circle bikes. Rear Shock- R6 rear shock is perfect on factory setting for a bike with stock length and awsome on a -2 swinger at full soft. This set up hooks well with a properly studded tire and the front end is very tame. Front shocks- Currently testing with Blaster shocks to keep the front end a little higher then the rear wich will help with weight transfer and proper traction. Yes it helps to lower the front but to low will kill traction and hinder the ability to predictably slide under control. Tried a set of works tripple rates and the bumper was kissin the sky and it is a bit hairy. (blaster are 14 inch, 300ex 13inch, lt230 12.5 inch.) 14 would be a good minimum for custom shocks because it will allow droop for coming out of turns while the front on your rabid shee is fighting gravity. LOWER IS BETTER, BUT TO LOW WILL LOSE RACES ON A SHEE http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124766 Grip tape- Try running a piece of grip tape on the inner part of the nerf bar right next to where your foot rests on the rear brake side. I almost got ate alive by the Kold Kutters today and instantly got a piece from a buddy up the road and noticed a huge difference. This is my preferred footing location in a turn when I need to push or (kick) the nerf through a turn. It is alot nicer to just focus on the race and not think every lap about how if I lose footing on that slick bitch,"my leg is toast. Left knee pad- Most ice racing is counter clockwise so your knee is pressed in to the plastic gas tank shroud right where it meets the seat and it actually leaves bruises if I ride hard enough, and believe me it gets tender. I never like to wear more gear then nesaccary, but try running a knee pad under your pants or outer most layer so that it doesn't destroy your plastic.This helps to dramatically reduce fatigue and increase the duration in wich you can ride as hard as possible. Alter the steering stem- I have helped a buddy with a bad left shoulder cut and re-weld his steering stem for ice racing so that it actually is clocked about 20-30 degrees to the right so that when in the turns it isn't as brutal to keep the bars yanked uptight to the left shoulder. We actually stay off to the left of the seat through the races, and this helps to keep from being in a cocked position, wich again increases the ability to ride harder. this tip actually came from a canadian banshee rider known to ride very fast and very long runs. I personally will be buying a stock stem to modify like this just for the ice season. These are just a few ideas I have used to improve my riding on the ice and ovals, If you guys have any tips or tricks throw 'em out there to help others learn to push the limits.

HOLY SHIT! I was on the ice today and had my buddy helpin me hit my points and while we were messin with the sway bar we talked about flippin the wheels and we actually tried it and found out about the stems rubbing. figured I'd hunt some 90 degree valve stems and ironically the hq solved that issue. But for real I think spacers would be more adequate, and if not I'm already savin up for some +3+1 arms to fix any width issues. Plus Nos_350x is a true flattrack racer and he says the offset kinda hurt handling, so gotta find alternate to flippin any way.

any one reading this post should glance at this updated thread, it has a very clear standing about front shocks on ice, http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124766

nos-350x,,, that was my PM and thanks for answering it in a way that every one could appreciate. I have been trying to tell people that there is no way that a banshee with the front end being lower or at least level will evr transfer weight to get the traction. I just noticed that all the fastest banshees typically have a higher shock, for instance you, loboboy, the pikes peak winning banshees, etc. those hoosier motos could problably take a couple more studs (imo) but then you would lose the ability to comfortably slide, and being that that thing hooks the way it does it may be redundant. So do you think that my works tripple rates will work pretty well? got a rath sway bar to keep the roll down , and scored a very clean set of blaster shocks for 20 bucks to play with to see how they feel. I LOVE THIS FUCKING SITE!!!!! Motodrummer, this season we dual...........as soon as we roost the 4 pokers with ice shavings.

That metal cast is bad ass stuff, gotta really do good prep work for the bare metal stuff, and you can even make plastic look titties! check out my myspace link to my photos and see my NEW BUILD photo album. Every thing that is blue other then the frame is krylon annodiz-it and metalcast paint and I coated it with clear engine enamel.

here it is, just 75 bucks can't go wrong. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-Axis-banshee-raptor-660-rear-shock_W0QQitemZ260527493369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca8a610f9

tpr is the company that built that weird spider show quad that was in dirtwheels, cool goodies on their site

Bump for a cool topic, any one else doin this now adays

bump, didn't there used to be a kit for this

OK so this is an old thread, but I thought it was ineresting and so I thought I'd bump it. true the banshee can stay cool........till it's hopped up and then you have to shell out bucks for a good radiator. However, a shee could benefit from a thermostat by keeping water in the radiator for a longer period of time for more air to pass through it, thus cooling the coolant inside the radiator more thuroughly before it passes through the motor once again. Similar to how individuals with water to air intercoolers on their factory supercharged svt lightnings and cobras use voltage reducers to slow the factory pumps just a little bit to give the liquid heat exchanger more time to cool the fluid.

Good call loco, the 450 arms are ok ..........JUST OK compared to actually spending money on banshee style stuff. Reason being is because of the geometry of the ball joints is way cocked and very much in a life span shortening position. If you are gonna do a full conversion including spindles and all the other goodies, then ok, but for the price of all that You can find a very nice setup DESIGNED for a banshee. I guess if there is a way cheap setup off 450 you know of and absolutely don't wanna hold out on the more expensive stuff O.K. I personally love the armadillo arms on my shee and thay are less then any good looking 450 components on ebay.

Looking to buy a Banshee fly wheel in good condition, prefferably newer year to avoid rust and corosion,

I absolutely love lakes! Any time I need anything they stop to help me out and the same goes for anybody I send there. Not sure on the in house dyno thing , cuz I make their dinner every wedsday when his wife comes in, and I'm pretty sure she mentioned that mike had to PACK UP to move a few bikes over to the dyno shop. Any way here's a thread with a few positive reviews on them. They also have a high reputation on one of the blaster forums. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117694&view=&hl=lakes motorsports&fromsearch=1

Dont those power bands only work with the boost bottle mod?

Thanks daj... I appreciate the thoughts on the tranny, especially that super dunable. I think I'll throw in just a stock rz tranny this week on my big bore stock stroke bike just to see how it handles the ice cuz it will never see under 3rd or 4th depending on the lake I race. Just wanna see if it works out like the newer 450 dirt bikes, 4th on a straight 3rd in turn, Maybe. just wanna see how it works out and if it is bunk I'll throw the stocker in before actually racing.

The reason I want the rz drum modded is so I can get a bigger more smooth bearing on it, since the thing is 20 something years old its time to change any way and 15 more dollars of quality isn't too big a deal. As far as the cases go I'm not welding the seam all the way around, but the area where epoxy would normally go after trenching, and the crank will definitely have longer then 115 rods cuz it will be a 7-10 mill similar to loboboy's setup so I can flattrack and ice race. as for the cryo treatment the little added assurance is worth it cuz I'm not able to afford billit tranny and cases so I gotta do what I can.

I hope that french fuck is finallly puttin oem replacement "SYLE" boots on his coils.Had a few problems with that guy and his service sucks Dick! He claims oem style replacement but it comes with old style boots that will not go on to any Ngk or champion plug I've seen people running in their banshees. Had to reuse my old stock boots. The coil is alright, But nothing special, The plate is garbage though! Both mine and a guy I ride with from up north had those cheap ass plates wobble the ears for the mounting holes break/crack off and wound up with a stator that looked like hillbilly teeth. The fly wheel, hell I had to replace that to cuz the stator destroyed the inside of it once it let loose.I actually got his stuff and with in minutes was pissed that the bolts/screws were only hand tightened and I had to take the whole thing apart and loctite every thing.My pops is a machinist so I know to not overtighten/strip aluminum, especially cast. My best advice is to check all hardware twice and make sure that plate gets Loctite,and try to save 50 bones to get a new chariot plate instead ASAP. As far as the plugs, Br8 NGK is usually what people say, However Duncan Racing states that bikes with hotter ignitions or higher compression should avoid the 8 series plugs and go with a 9 series plug to combat heat.Personally my bike runs better on the br9. http://duncanracing.com/TechCenter/Nat_YamahaBansheeNatKitAssemblyNotes5-20-04.pdf the link is for their national kit tips, but its equel to moderately built motor

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121591 here is a little info on this topic from the past. I have been investigating this topic for a couple months and will definitely be swapping when I go 10mil with a vitos big block. less of that shift, shift, shift, pray......... and alot more click, I'm haulin my combo will be -Rz drum with whitaker drum mod and cryo treatment -Rz cluster with E-Z shift cut and cryo treatment -stock cases trenched and WELDED and cryo treated W-C-R http://www.w-c-r.com/PRICING.htm they can make ur rz parts stronger

Your microfiche.... http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/smokeonthewater/rztech.html

thanks bbc, already runnin r6 in the rear and btw a couple of your write ups on this topic have already helped that process for the rear. just looking for a shop that works with afcos or another similar company with expertise in this style set up for the front with out workin with works cuz I hate them dicks now.

I have been researching rz bottom end parts and components for quite some time now and have found that my best locator is to just look on ebay and shoot an e-mail to any one selling low end components and ask what they have available. I have located at least 3 drum and fork assemblies like this. Just havn't had the money to jump on them. This place has a resource page that should help as well http://www.scooterhelp.com/RZ_help/restorations/engine.start.html I'll try to post as many links as I can find in the next day or so

I am looking to find some one to help with setting up a pair of flat track shocks, but don't have a clue where to start. I would of posted in the flat track forum but the traffic over there has really slowed, any help would be appreciated.

wich one were you? the yellow and black one? that guy was killin it on that honda 4 poke wasn't he? too bad he had problems once he started showin off, but it was aa amazing set up and that thing was just damn fast! I hope to practice on my lake and see if i'll be able to hold my own but i gotta get some issues sorted out on my shee.