trickedcarbine

https://motsmachining.com/photos/ ? If you wanna keep it all in Canada, maybe have Arsene handle it.

Who is Mott’s Machining? Are they building these motors or similar banshee stuff? After checking out your spread sheet, your domes are not pump gas at 21cc. Those numbers are fine on stock cylinder and stroke motors, but once you compress the added volume of a 72 bore and 10mm more stroke, it is much higher compression then pump gas will handle. Mattoon cases are over kill unless you do a DM. Straight cut gears refer to the primary gears definitely worth doing over 100HP. However a billit trans is going to be from Robinson and those are drag racing over rides, not a pro mod like you’ll want. You can however buy a billit 2nd Gear. Doubtful you’d even need a billit second though. Of the guys I know with the 521 Servals, they are running stock based pro mods. The pro mod will come with all the other parts like the detent roller, modded star, etc. Clutch, ditch the 8 plate. No need for it now that everybody is running the lock up clutches. The old 8 and 10 plate set ups were done to hold power before the lock ups were around. There obviously are some mega motors in the drag world that may use them, but for yours, run the lock up on a traditional style clutch. The spring loaded Hinson on straight cut gears is definitely tits. A sling shot or finger style lock up is a toss up. Both have their benefits, but you’ll see more tuning info for the finger style lock ups. Definitely go new OEM ignition components on a timing plate over any of the other stuff out there. The gains are minimal and the cost is high especially if you’re not an advanced engine builder/tuner. Jet Kit? Dude, this isn’t some motor a box kit from Dyno Jet will work on. Their kit is for stock carbs anyway. If you’re tuning lectrons or PWK’s you’ve got totally different jets. Not to mention learning curve For exhaust, the FMF and SLP’s are automatically not going to work. You’ll need a big bore pipe. Shearer and Sniper do offer those, but I’d go LED. They have been building a lot of pipes for the big Servals and other comparible power motors for Cam at Redline and they can get you a total package with the quiet silencers you want. Check out Factory 43 for nerfs. Front brakes can be swapped to yfz450 stuff. Do the master cylinder as well. The rear can be swapped to calipers from a multitude of options. Wicked, Brembo/Ducati style caliper from Race Tech, Rick Farmer’s Caliper, etc. The stock master is decent enough or you can swap it to an R1 Caliper. Lastly, of all the electronic stuff you want on it, it’s all weight. Lots and lots of weight. Maybe a Digitron data monitor, and the road legal stuff. But all the rest of it... meh.

Do your self a favor, move on from Kevin at HerrJuggs No need for the Mattoon cases on a 10 motor which is what a 521 will be. If you are serious about a 521 Serval, get with Cam at Redline. He has been turning out more 521 Servals then anyone. I’ve rode one of his 521’s and plenty smaller Servals. He’s got them figured out. As far as the LSR chassis goes. You’ll be hard pressed to get them to do another run of them if you’re talking about the Outlaw. If you are lucky it’s possible you may find one used online and have everything there to tear down and re powder coat. I’m doing getting a custom frame built with YFZ 450 geometry up front and it should be done in a week or so. I’d entertain offers as I’m kind of wanting to move on to other projects. Or, I may have a small run of them re produced.

Acceptable PSI in a stock head rebuild with a couple bores like yours, 130ish. Do you have a stock head or cool head on it? Dennis is spot on with break in. Just be get it warm and check it all over a couple times. Take it for an easy cruise and listen to it. If it’s all good, beat the snot out of it.

Meh, expensive learning curve.

Ideas? See above. Way way way to much timing. Slap it back together and send it again. We’ll be here when you’re ready to keep it in one piece.

Absolutely. There is even a jetting comparison thread here, but there are plenty of us who have built multiple different shit piles of every variation, so there is definitely knowledge that can be shared. Not be more accurate, what is the full set up on the bike? Head work, timing, fuel, air box or pod filters, etc.

Maybe for the inexperienced. But once you take the time to figure it out and learn a thing or two, you’ll see it’s way easier.

This was the most intelligent question out of anyone.

No no no. The SLPs are a real early on pipe that signs off pretty abruptly up top.

Why all the SLP reccomendations from you fellas? He says he’s doing more open riding, it would take hella gearing to get them to not sign off so hart up top and then you’d be killing the bottom end.

The SLP’s will sign off to early for you then. Look at the DMC’s and PC’s. However if you really wanna get 4, 5, & 6, look for a set of Rockets or CPI’s. They’ll still have a bit of grunt early on and really move on the top end. The open roads and sand pits will really be fun. And if you want more bottom end feel with them, just do a timing plate and domes.

I’ve tuned a few cubs pretty happily anywhere between 7 and 10 degrees timing. I know there are guys running up to about 14 degrees, but that’s fellas who like to push the limits.

Just fix it. They’re way easier to fix then the 4 stroke stuff.

8.5-9:1

T5’s are friggin’ lazy all around IMO. The only people who disagree are the fan boys who’ve never ran anything different. What is it that you want the pipe to do? DMC’s will certainly be more like a PC.

Lean

Sounded lean, and like the clutch is toast and just slipping.

Exactly why I asked. That’s where your issue is. To much timing. Put the plate at 0 and let the Dyna do it’s thing. Or make sure the Dyna is programmed to accommodate the plate.

There is no one answer for that question. Some guys go several seasons on one set of pistons and only need a light hone before putting fresh ones in and can do that a few times before needing a bore. Other guys who aren’t as meticulous can end up needing to bore halfway through a season because they’ve over heated it, feed it trash fuel, don’t clean filters, or bored & honed wrong before a rebuild.

Just timing on the ignition? No aftermarket plate under the Stator?

Definitely ditch the Koso’s.

What would the rest of the set up be? Any way you can post a photo of the bottom of the cylinders in the transfer area? That’ll typically tell the tale of how much air you can use.

That was the smarter route if you can fab.

These are the drill kits. Really no worse then changing actual jets. Just pull yours, twist the bit for 20 seconds, spray it with brake clean or compressed air and done. If you know what jets you should have you can be even faster since you don’t need to work up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk