J.J.

Same here, bought his 4mm crank. No b/s, quick replies to pm's and shipped internationally without complaints. Thanks bro.

Here's mine, home-made out of Alu plate. No need to modify the wiring loom, it's long enough.

lol, just noticed you're almost at 20 000 posts. I'm gonna hafta step it up a tad...

Joined in 2000. Member no.171 Fatbanshee & Toomey Banshee are also old timers.

Shawn, BmF replied with If the ball joints don't bind, you should be fine...

Big thanks to Loco for sorting out my problem, cheers bro.

sounds like an air leak to me, is the choke tube on? (little black hose connecting the carbs)

Bolt or stud with nut? Title of the thread says bolt. Hopefully just a typo... Bolts will strip the alloy for sure.

Awesome project dude, I'm glad you finally got it done. Sucks about the stator though... here's a pic of airtite's hybrid with banshee cylinders. airtite's project @ 2strokespirit so leer 'n mens maar, hoop die stator werk

73mm Cheetah on RZ/Banshee cases, I like the concept of the TTS 90Deg crank, gives a "reduction of peak rocking-couple forces of 31%" + the Big Bang concept. :cool: Wonder how effective the 90Deg crank will be in an off-road situation. The TTS bike looks like a lotta fun, although 115HP isn't exactly earth shattering... I want one.

old's cool, nice bike!

Thanks Lee, but I paid $55 on 04 Sept 2008 for 18 months. Doesn't show premium under my name, kindly re-activate my subscription for the remainder of the term.

looks good from where I'm sitting, hat off to you. Gotta get those edge radii spot on if you want your rings to last.

I have nothing to offer to this thread, but to say that this whole thread was an excellent example of how to diagnose a problem and get help on this forum. Well done to the original poster for his clear pics and descriptions and also to the others for accurate and spot-on replies. All that's required is some follow-up once the problem has been solved and this thread could be made a sticky in the repair section.

it's marginally faster to type. As for actually saying 'shee, I agree, sounds gay, but not as gay as saying "the 'shee", as in "I rode the 'shee", or "I rode the '88", wtf?

This also works...

Before I start, let me just say that I run a PD stator plate on my bike. The theory behind the offset key is not too bad; as we all know, it is the taper and proper torque on the nut that holds the flywheel in position, and the key is just supposed to index the flywheel blah blah. I fully agree with that. However, if the $15 key interferes with the fit and the required "push-up" of the flywheel onto the shaft, then shit's gonna happen. We have been using a taper fit for our key-less propellers in 100 000HP applications for at least the last 20 years on our container ships. I say, index the flywheel using a protractor and leave the key out, IF (and that's a big IF), the tapers are correct and matched, the "push-up" of the flywheel onto the shaft will keep the flywheel in the correct position. Fire at will! hehehe

I agree with above. Is that bike hard to start at all? This pic borrowed from Klaus

THIS might also be useful.

I have them on +2 arms, works fine, no complaints.

Welcome to the HQ! I think you found the problem. It's not going to run too well with a 45Deg timing advance/retard. More than likely it's the timing that caused the backfire. You should also confirm the gap for the pick-up coil. You have a shop manual?

For sure the reed stops have to be the same way up on both cages. Feel free to experiment with High & Low. I've tried them both ways and felt no difference. There was a post here a long time ago about losing those retaining screws, be careful, you don't wanna suck those through your motor.

Yeah that's funny

Watch it all the time, can't wait for the 09 season to start. Pity about the 500's. I like to compare the fastest laps for the 125's, 250's & GP class with each other, sometimes not much of a difference BTW, I support #46