J.J.

Damn, how I wish I was there... I have been involved with a few forum fund raisers and charities, mostly on South African quad sites and rarely have I seen a project handled so well, from conception to the end, you have done an admirable job. Congrats JB, you're the man! What goes around, comes around and I'm sure you will reap the rewards. Rubberneck, enjoy!

lean or airleak

The TM case saver is the one to go for no doubt. Just can't get a hold of any here in South Africa. I'm using a Modquad billet cs with a 15t front. IMO, the billet cs should be ok as long are there is no space for the chain to bunch up between the cs and the sprocket. My theory remains unproven and I like it that way, would you rather have no cs than a billet one? I also run a good quality chain with correct tension and alignment...

Either the slides are hanging up, (could be due to cable issues or the slides sticking in the carb) or, there's an air leak somewhere on the intake, (boots, cross over tube, etc.) or, it is running out of fuel causing a lean condition (blocked screen in the petcock, blocked vent in the gas cap, incorrect float height) Stock carbs are 26mm. If you get a chance to inspect the bike, remove the airfilter and look into the carbs while operating the throttle, the slides should drop down all the way to the bottom with a load clunk.

some 33PWK's would be nice

You need a special "crows foot" open wrench and a big ass torque wrench to do this properly. If like most of us, you don't have these handy then proceed as follows: If you are sure the bearings are seated correctly, then Tighten the inside nut until just before you feel the bearings start to bind. There will be some drag from the new seals. Hold the inside nut and tighten the outside nut against the inside nut. Tighten the outside nut firmly against the inside nut without allowing the inside nut to turn on the axle. Now hold the outside nut and tighten the inside nut BACK, anti-clock wise, against the outside nut, until you have reached the distance of 3mm or 0.12" as shown in the pic. The axle should now be able to spin freely and the nuts are jammed (locked) in the proper way.

Great, just want I needed to hear. Thanks once again for the replies.

I suffer from the same mental disorder. No known cure yet. Post up some pics!

Good fuel supply to the right side carb? might have kinked a hose.

Looking good so far, remember to do a leak down test on the motor, it will be easier to do while it is still on the bench.

Thanks once again, M-Pact II you say. We don't wrench or do any hotwork or labor of any kind, just supervising. Dexterity - can one still operate a cell phone or hold a pen for a signature once in a while?

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Here's mine. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=swinger

Hey Klaus, Welcome to the HQ and thanks for the heads-up. Your post made perfect sense to me.

Anyone try Mechanix gloves? I want to buy a couple of sets for my crew. We supervise the construction of ships, so will mostly use them for protection while climbing scaffolding and steel structures. I need opinions on durability and which type. Thanks, J.J.

Nothing wrong with that carrier. If you do the grease zerk mod remember to drill a few holes through the spacer sleeve as well. Problem with the grease zerk mod is that there is no way the air can escape, so I drilled and tapped a second hole in the carrier with a plug to act as a vent hole. The grease zerk mod works great!

Sorry, my bad...

Quite a project, definitely do-able, but sounds like a plumbing nightmare... Very old article on MacDizzys

Fully agree, I've done it many times, only problem is that after the explosion, a vacuum will form inside the tire and may suck the bead off the rim again. I always remove the valve to prevent this, even with the valve removed, the explosion is still sufficient to seat the bead. If you are afraid to get too close to light the match, just spray some of the flammable liquid on the end of a stick/broom handle/flag pole/whatever, light it and use this to light the tire from a distance. IMO this method is safer than standing next to a tire with 70PSI of air pressure trying to seat the bead.

Thanks Josh, I have the bigger rubber connectors for the airbox and also a spare airbox, just looking for ideas before I start cutting...

Jacking your post. Reading the above, I assume you have larger carbs with the 2 piece intake and still running the airbox? I just received 33PWK's and THIS intake from F.A.S.T. and I really need to run the airbox. I am travelling so have not tried to fit it to the bike, but I am sure there will be some problems. If you are running with an airbox, do you mind posting some pics of your set-up? Much appreciated. Here's a crappy cell phone pic of the intake, not sure who makes them.

Experiment with the needle clip positions and see what works. It is an after-market needle. The clip position will effect the jetting at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle position. BenBB's Jetting FAQ Question 11

Dude, this is getting a tad annoying... I'll ask again, for the last time Is the airbox lid on or is it off? It should be on if you are using the stock filter. Is the filter oiled or is it dry? It should be oiled. After looking at the previous filter, I definitely recommend you clean and check the carbs. A properly jetted stock banshee when ridden for the 1st time will pull hard and put a HUGE grin on your face, check the carbs and the reeds, it will be worth it!

Airbox lid on or off? The lid must be on with a stock filter as it holds the filter in place. After looking at the previous filter, I definitely recommend you clean and check the carbs. Here's BenBB's jetting FAQ, I suggest you read up some... BenBB's Jetting FAQ Let us know what main jets are in there.