J.J.

pm'd on the brake line

PM'd Another DVD to South Africa Simon!

Home made, no need to modify the wiring loom, should be long enough to reach this position.

Also just got the same phone, same complaint and the "back" button is in the wrong place. Otherwise great little gadget, prefer it over my daughter's 3GS I/P

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97816&view=&hl=swingarm&fromsearch=1

You can do much better than that for 20bucks more. http://www.hsdracing.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=868

Exactly as advertised, quick replies & fast shipping.

Nice write-up! awesome looking joints

awesome, well thought out.

If you want the ultimate in anti-fog goggles, get the Smith Turbo http://www.smithoptics.com/Option-OTG-Turbo_16_1054.html?fl=flase Add the roll-off canisters and you're golden.

Those are awesome! Can't wait for the build thread!

Like the others said, get your ass on the grab bar and lean down to feel how much play. You can use a billet saver if you run a 15 t front, because there isn't enough space between the saver and the sprocket for the chain to bunch up, I wouldn't run a billet with a 12 t though. Are you going to use a master link or peen over the pins on the joining link? Make sure the pins are properly peened over if no master link. You might find that the crappy stock chain adjustment set-up will leave the chain either too tight or too slack, the chain adjustment slots can be ground longer to give more adjustment. The chain will stretch a bit after the 1st few runs so keep this in mind when adjusting or removing links.

It's the same on the right carb, you just need a long screw driver. I suggest you remove the carbs the 1st time, if you haven't opened the drains on a regular basis then they will be tough to open. You can't get sufficient push on the screw driver because the boots will flex. Once opened/closed a few times they will be easy to crack open.

I had a chat with Steve via e-mail, he says that it should work great in off-road situations, should improve traction a whole lot. If it wasn't for the fact that you require a new ignition system to go with the crank I would've ordered a 4mm crank from him to try in a stock cyl set-up a long time ago. Drop him an e-mail, he's quite a friendly guy. Vibration should be less, not more.

very tidy! what secures the bottle? the original rubber grommets?

Cool, would love to see the pics

PM'd

thanks Matt, much appreciated!

It's the same product as the other thread. E-Bay

My major concern is the cap, it feels a bit flimsy, but it looks like it should work fine. I'm hoping to exchange it with a stock cap, but not sure if a stocker will fit. I took some measurements of the filler neck if someone would like to check if the stock cap would fit. Outside diameter of the lock-ring - 43.10mm Inside diameter of the lock ring (and the cut-out for the locking tabs on the cap) - 37.9mm Inside diameter of the filler neck - 31.5mm Height, valve seat to the top of the filler neck - 16.00mm I also got the hoses, not much to say about them, look ok, will have to see how they fit on the bike. Feel free to ask for extra photo's or dimensions.

I'm working in China, so decided to check-out the infamous radiator. Unfortunately, it will be a while before I can actually fit this thing to my bike or even compare it to the stocker. I took some photo's (I used my D90 seeing that some members don't like cellphone pics. lol) Shipped with EMS, packaging was ok, none of the fins were bent. Welds are not the tidiest, beads are inconsistent, but seem plenty strong. Lots of filler used on the hangers and tubes. Doesn't look like it will leak. This is the worst looking weld. The vendor states a 30% increase in capacity, not sure what capacity he refers to; volume or cooling capacity? The total volume to the top of the upper tank is 1 litre, not sure how much the stocker holds. If the 30% increase is in the coolant volume and not cooling capacity or core surface area, then it's not worth bragging about. The core is a double row core, btw.

If I had to hazard a guess I'd say he's referring to the cap locking device that comes on stock carbs. Most people throw those away after while... Need pics for sure

Thanks! Old pic. Running a billet intake with internal crossover now.

fully agree with Akh; if you insist on isolating the exhaust with rubber, then rather put the rubber on the frame. I'm pretty sure with a bit of tweaking and shimming or bending a tab or hanger you'll get it right. Here are my fatty's, as you can see, also pretty close on the left side.

An old banshee complaint, especially going through water. Check for obvious signs of the slide sticking in the bore, as well as cable routing, binding. The retainer that holds the needle to the slide has a little hole in it that lines up with a corresponding hole in the slide, the retainer can fit two ways, either blocking off the hole or keeping it clear, the hole must be clear to equalize the pressures above and below the slide.