J.J.

Thanks for the reminder, I must admit I only hook up the tether when I'm doing some "serious" riding. I can't afford to be out of work, so will hook it on from now on.

Yep, natural, not white. I wanted to be able to see the fuel level through the plastic.

no gasket, I had to rob the stock tank for all the parts

Thanks bud, the bar rubs on the tank at full lock at the moment; the bar needs to be about 3mm higher to clear the tank with my preferred bar position. If I rotate the bars in the clamp a bit forward they clear. This is at the last bit of full lock only. I recently got some fat bar adapters from a member here which I plan to fit with some Flexx bars. Should clear easily then. For you Joe

That was Run's bike, one my favorite banshees ever. dipstick

Thanks payment made. PM'd

Split the cases. I haven't heard of too many 58mm stroke (4mm) x 115mm cranks that needed clearancing at the upper case, mine certainly did not.

Still have red in stock?

awesome, my kinda racing! you passed a lotta 4 strokes on the 1st lap, how many laps?

Agreed, don't worry about it. I liberated this pic from Bigred's case assembly thread.

Add another happy customer to your list. Thanks bro, hope to do business with you again!

Looks like you might have egged out the bolt holes. Happened to me in the early days when I had nylon spacers at the rear. The bolt holes egged out badly, no matter how much I tightened the nuts. Still looks like a quality problem, regardless.

yep, unfortunately it installs from inside the cover. If you are careful you might be able to remove the cover without damaging the gasket. I've used the same gasket many times over, just be sure to grease up the gasket prior to installing. Personally I wouldn't use RTV instead of a gasket, worth a try though...

or you can get the OEM breather from FAST at $11.5 http://farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=210

I also prefer the side view, takes a bit of juggling to get it right though. Don't forget to put on a safety leash from the camera to the helmet in case the mount fails. Don't ask how I know...

Mike, reading that prompted me to give you a little heads up; the crankcase is separate from the gearcase. If you are gonna flush the crankcase then do it when the cylinders are removed, through the same opening that the dirt fell in. Turn the motor upside down to flush out. Don't put diesel into the opening where the dipstick goes... I would just split the cases if it were me. good luck and happy holidays

You wrote 'float' did you mean 'float bowl' ? floats are the same, bowls are not Look at this thread to see what I mean. Click me Take it easy with that stuff, you're gonna break something happy holidays and good luck

pm'd on the chain guides

is it possible that you miss-matched the float bowls? The carb float bowls are not the same, the carb with the choke has a jet that feeds the choke circuit on the other carb.

Live and learn. Still, not the end of the world. Get yourself a Clymers repair manual before you start the engine work. Not too sure about the single carb jetting, but you should be able to come up with the numbers when you search the Jetting & Exhaust section. Timing should be ok up to 4 Deg. Post some pics!

chalk up another good transaction. Thanks Bud.

good experience with Herbie; Members can buy with confidence! Thanks Bud!

Pipes are FMF Gnarly. Bike looks clean.

Depends on the oil you use, but generally in the range of 32:1 to 30:1 Interesting username, do you have a 63 Volvo?

Pm'd on the coolant bottle bracket.