J.J.

A little late I know, but hope you had a great day all the same. I'll definately have a frosty on you tonight.

Hell yeah, should've had video of the day too...

Make your own. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=beadbreaker

Looks like he is at sea level to me... "carbies" huh, must be an Aussie... I see you're running the 300's now, if she clears out on the top end at full throttle then leave the 300's in there. You shouldn't be lean at all like dajogejr said. Check the plugs to make sure.

Whistlepigs huh, thanks for that Meat. hehehe To the new boy; there are better ways to fit in with this tuff crowd than posting 100+ posts in 5 days. Take it easy with the useless posting and try to learn something about banshee's bro.

Read the 3 articles on the top of the Jetting and Exhaust Forum and also take a look at BenBB's Jetting FAQ, jetting is trail and error, so make sure you have a range of main jets on hand to test as well as a riding spot with a long straight.

You don't need the clamps on the FMF's, some high temperature silicon sealant will do the trick.

200Bucks!! I'm in the wrong business... :shoothead:

That's a luck! Add a drop of Locktite to that screw. Glad it worked out for you.

Yep. We can talk you through it, but it's better to get a manual though, it's a good investment in the long run.

Remove the shift lever on the other side as well as the clutch then just pull the shaft out, make sure you know in which order the spacer and spring goes. Now is a good time to renew the shift shaft oil seal... shift shaft microfiche

What the others said... If you're on a budget, stick with a hardtail from a reputable company. Going with a cheapo full susser is going to give you a heavy bouncy ride, with lots of slop in the linkages and no room for upgrades. Get an alloy frame that's the correct size for you and has upgrade potential, ie, an "aheadset" style stem, a 68mm english thread bottom bracket shell and a replaceable derailleur hanger. Disc brake mounts would be nice. Most frames are made in Taichung in Taiwan anyway. If you trail ride a few times a week (you said you need the exercise), shit will break and wear out. When they do, you can upgrade to something that starts with "XT" and/or ends in "R" depending on your budget. Here's my 99 TREK 6000, the only thing that's original is the frame. I ride it every day and don't see the need for anything better... Good luck and show some pics when you've made your purchase.

Only one "d" in Redish, shit dude, you dug deep to find this one...

Take care to protect the slide barrel when you drill the hole, when the drill bit breaks through the other side it can be difficult to control and you might nick the opposite side of the slide barrel. I stuck a piece of wooden broom handle in there for protection. Also be very careful when using a tap on alloy, the tap is small and can break easily and if it does break off inside the hole, you're pretty phucked... Just go easy and remember to reverse the tap every 1/4 turn or so. Good luck.

I got friendly with the parts guy at the local stealership, he gave me a whole range of jets from 290 to 330 on a cash deposit, I tried them all and gave him back the ones I didn't use. Jet kits are not the way to go imo...

Shift star pin...

You can get by with no idle screws, just take up the slack as you did. Make sure the slides are in sync, ie. moving up and down at the same time and by the same amount by adjusting the adjuster on the carb tops. This becomes a bit of a bitch when you remove the carb tops, you have to re-adjust... You can view the slides with the air filter removed and thru the small window on the side of the carb.

Dammit! I'm jealous as hell. Take some pics bro!

The bearing and seal for the impeller shaft are mounted in the clutch cover, so the clutch cover has to be removed. No biggie, it's quite straightforeward just be carefull with the gasket for the clutch cover, try not to break it. (Don't forget to drain the fluids and the gear oil.) Once you have the clutch cover off, it should be quite obvious on how to remove it. While you're in there, you might as well renew the bearing (B6300Z) P/N 93306-30003-00: Item 2 on the pic as well as the oil seal, P/N 93103-10168-00: Item 3 on the pic. These items are dirt cheap, even in this part of the world. Any hiccups give us a shout!

Yep

Look here instead.

Well said. Because a Banshee has a Cd of a brick shithouse, wind resistance has a huge effect on top speed. The relationship between wind resistance and speed is not linear, in fact wind resistance increases with the square of the speed. Drag= Cd x air density x velocity(sq) x frontal area/2 ( Reference:NASA ) This means that if a piped Banshee of typical 40HP can only manage 80mph, then the same Banshee under the same conditions requires 63HP to get to 100mph.

Get the screws from E-bay, make sure you get a kit with the drill-bit and tap included. In the mean time you can get by, by taking up the slack in the throttle cable.

It's not all peachy, I have to deal with very mundane issues like legislation and regulations as well. Besides, I'm far away from family and friends and haven't seen my banshee for more than a year, hell, I've a set of GRR ported cylinders still in the box waiting for me...Not exactly dream job! As for knowing shit, well, it's only valuable in your line of work. Completely useless in other fields. I have a friend who packs fish in friggen Iceland, he makes more money than I do, has more vacation and better toys, who's better off?

Thanx Cole, We're discussing a 14 cylinder for our next project, not sure about BHP though, depends on what our propellor vendor can come up with... Rare, it's a crosshead engine, check out my sig to figure it out.