fastbanshee4u

I think stay stock impeller,if you cycle the water out of the radiater to fast it does not get to cool enough.Not all after market products are better.But no question bigger water tank tank takes more to heat it.Spend your money else where.

A good start would be port it before you waste money on bigger carbs.I think 28s are great though,dont need any bigger on a 350.

Different mixtures cause this-24:1 creates a thicker gas,therefore less gas gets through those little jets.40:1 is a thinner gas that flows through the jets faster.So the more the oil in your gas your actually leaning your motor down.Pick a good oil and mixture and stick with it.Also the less oil in your gas,the less your crank bearings get lubricated.You could also base your mixture on how hard you ride.Race-32:1 ,trail ride 40:1.

That would lower your compression,possibly circulate less water,and stock head gaskets suck.

Sound like one or both of the carb slides are not going closed.cable may be sticking ,or pinched.Synchronize the carb slides.

270 mains,27.5 pilot and adjust air screw to best response.Not all bikes are the same though.

I had run av gas for two seasons,and up to 210#s of compression.Never a problem.Trinity racing told me their sponsered riders run it for the whole race season.You buy the overpriced race fuel,while I will continue to use 100LL ave gas.Although,some airports are getting stricter on selling to so many of us who are trashing our engines.

I would like to see a compression reading.Alot of people run higher octane than really needed.High octane does not run better ,it just keeps from detenating.

S tock plates with barnett springs.Stock plates has less surface area than some of the after market,Less surface area with stronger springs means it can not slip as easy.I broken plates from hooking up hard on black top before they slipped and burnt the fibers.Also the steels can warp from getting hot.If you dont put alot of stress on your clutch the cheaper kits do work fine.

If you alredy have a good port job,save your money.If not just port your 350 and ride on.I built a stroker with 404 kit,and another with a stroker with stock size pistons at the same time.The stock piston bike would stomp all over the big bore for speed.Both bikes had the same port timing.

Bump ---I dont think you will get any cheaper?

Find places to practice first.Some tracks have a practice night.You dont have to do triples to be fast.Just be patient and watch,and follow better riders.Most importantly have the right set up and maintain your machine.

Selling due to need no more. 8 inch rear beadlocks with 18x11x8 turf tamers-75% tread left atleast $160.00 includes shipping except to the west.I can e-mail photos and there not all beat up or no tire plugs

You will not like fatties after having Circiuts.You would like FMF gnarleys if you want faster response.Just get your compresion up for better low end and ride it fast.Thats what banshees are for Rev,Rev and Rev,when you get tired of that buy a Raptor or other 4 stroke.

I have a wiseco hot rod crank,thats been welded for added strength.I got a stroker now this is for sale .$150.oo including shipping .

Can be a pain .Not meant really for traction,Its keeps your chain from pulling tight.Therefor your swing arm floats better in the roughstuff.I guess you get better traction in the rough,but makes no difference like in a straight drag.And I would say it has to cost you a little power any time you add more parts.Yea mine came apart and broke my side case also.I would say if your a cross country racer it would help,other wise steer clear.

Sent you a message.

I say also forget the 404 big bore,been there done that and wasnt impressed.Not to mention my ported 350 was faster.

Well said. I have built some fast banshees for guys who have done fine at the drags with out v-forces.Not to say there bad and I had them,but there over priced,like every thing else in the quad world.

Yea ,I used to flat trak race. I ran 15/40 for gearing and smoked many guys because they thought they could pull higher ratios.Unless maybe your on the Bonnieville salt flats or something.Tire size makes a huge difference also.

I would raise exhaust to 27.5 t0 28 mm, change domes to 19 or 20s to get back some compression.Keep the top of the exhaust port arched nice to keep ring and piston wear down. Mic the diameter of the inside of your head pipes and try to get the cylinders close to that. Use a drum sander in a diegrinder,then blend that to the cylinder edge with paper wraped around a dowel rod or dremel flex shaft..Get your exhaust real smooth.Dremel makes sanding/buffing wheels that work great,brown first then the grey one. Yes, on your cases just taper to match the the cylinders. Match the gaskets also or buy from Twister racing. Get used to spinning or buy a 4 stroke,also Fattys hit hard and spin easy. Good luck

big bores are not always faster.If you spend money on Toomeys after already having Pro Circuits you will not be happy.Make sure your not getting to much fuel with those big carbs. Jetting makes a major difference on how happy you are with your bike.Is it responsive when you punch the throttle.

So many people buy carbs who dont really need them.But once your done with your bike you will need big main jets.I have ported many bikes,and you can make a banshee very fast with stock carbs.Dont spend to much time polishing where the reeds sit,just get everything evenly sized. Shape your transfer bridge sharply,try a small round file for this also.Give me the distance from the top of the exhaust port to the cylinder top,in millimeters 30-26. If you want a good tip for more top end than most $300 port jobs let me know? Congrtats on doing it your self,your going to love the extra power.

Put the air box lid back on for the winter and it will helpout with out putting in jeys.Less air-more fuel.

270--280 mains should be fine as long as its not been ported.30 pilots