watkins

Always could try swapping your coolant out with engine ice. I havent overheated once under normal riding conditions since... only time I have overheated since then is when I am putting in first gear for extended periods of time (which is normal).

I have a ASV clutch lever and it rocks, nice pull and fold back in the case of a roll over... looks good too. Good upgrade in my mind.

VP C12 here, I pay around $10 a gallon.

I second that. Why risk your motor over the cost of a gasket.

#1 buy a clymers manual #2 have you tried adjusting the clutch lever on the bars? You may need to pull the clutch cover and inspect the clutch, but first I would make sure you are adjusted correctly at the clutch lever.

1. Weld your crank 2. Clutch 3. Reeds 4. Good pipes 5. Change of underwear after you shit your pants. Talk to Jim @ Passion, he will tell you everything you need to run his motors. His name on the boards here is PassionRE

You have it backwards, you will GAIN low end with a 2-in-1 and you will LOSE top end. If you are building a drag bike then you should stick with dual carbs. My .02 cents.

Just out of curiosity, why wouldnt you want to rebuild your engine? The cost of buying a new one is going to be huge compared to a rebuild.

I agree, mine was pretty bad like that too, just bend it back. Also check up front and make sure the plastics still fit right around the tank. My whole font where the radiator mounts to was pushed back like 2". Another way would be to cut the rear sub-frame off and fabricate a new one.

Mine did the same thing when i overfilled it once. Spit out a bunch of oil and has been fine ever since.

Wow, you did a dyno.. thats great. Possibly the person working on the bike (you) didnt know what the hell he was doing... remember the degree key goes on the crankshaft and not in the gas tank. I am running +4 and it made a difference.

I am sure the others will chime in as well, but I dont know how the stock crank is going to hold up to the HP the Cubs put out. Is your crank at least welded? If you are wanting power for the money and you will only be .20 over when your done then I would say a port job would do it.

How did you do a compression check without the head on?

Easter is gonna be my last trip for a few months so I was going to tear the bike down, ship the motor off to Passion to do a 12port stroker. While I have it somewhat apart I figured I may as well powder coat the frame and since im doing that may as well overhaul the suspension as well. Soo..... Ride the dunes and open desert (very seldom hit tight trails, but I do from time to time) Basically thinking of getting some Elka's with piggy backs on the front and just rebuild the rear shock. Any thoughts? Also want to go ahead and get some different a-arms and a new swinger. Thinking of Quicksand for both but I heard Sanddragon makes some great stuff as well. Any recommendations? I think +2 +1 Arms should work out nice with a +4 swinger (with the engine mods coming I think less would be suicide). Any input would be great. Not too concerned about the price, however I dont want to go too far overboard. So the less i spend the better. Thinking $2200 should do it. What you all think? The shee is gonna be a totally different machine next season.

Splitting the cases is fairly simple. I was pretty nervous before I did it, but Wallrat told me how simple it was and so I dug in and it was a breeze. Just make sure you bag and label all the little parts so you know what goes where later on. Impact makes things 100 Times easier.

I had the same question back when I did mine. Look at this topic and look at the pic Banshee~ posted.. thats the correct way to do it, dont look at the pic I posted (incorrect way to do it). http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=46771&hl=

I'd really consider getting rid of that TORs crap, it just causes issues and makes it a pain in the ass to work on the carbs. I ditched TORs on my banshee when it was new before I even fired her up.

I want to go but everyone in my group has a busted bike and no $$$ to fix them.

Well... first question... do you have a reliable compression tester? I have heard from many people on here of compression testers not reading properly due to poor construction... how are you checking compression? Are you holding the throttle WOT while kicking it until the needle stops moving? Dont know about the slapping noise, if its an actual slapping noise then I would be concerned. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

The jetting really depends on your elevation, I doubt the pinging it a jetting issue you need higher octane gas... at least run 50/50 pump and race gas.... if you chime in with your elevation we can help better with the jetting... also what pipes do you have? You said FMF Pro Curcuit.. those are two different brands.

Very bad bad idea... I ran 91 with +4 timing and I only had 21cc domes and destroyed both pistons in about an hour. Check your compression.

Does the other side fire if you swap the plug wires?

I asked this once before but didnt have all the info i needed so heres round 2: Have 2 gas cans 1 I know has 50/50 C-12 & 91 Premium mixed 32:1 and 1 I know is 91 Premium mixed 32:1.. now the question is I dont know which can is which. So... I did a color test today.... one can looks like a nice amber lager (amber in color almost orange) and the other one looks like a heineken (yellowish green)... so one is more greenish and lighter than the other.... so I am assuming since c-12 is greenishblue that the heineken would be the race gas and 91 and the amber lager would be just regular gas and oil... would that be accurate?

Try a different stator and see. Have anyone you know with a banshee that you could swap out parts with for testing?

Are you sure the waterpump is fine? I would take the impeller out and inspect it. The stock impeller is plastic and can turn into nothing in a hurry, mine was fine and I replaced it with a billet one just to be safe.