watkins

Heelguards, Head & Airbox w/ K&N still available. PM Any offers, need to get rid of this stuff.

Agreed, you should really talk to him before calling him out in the HQ like this. Everyone makes mistakes, this could very well be just that.

Should run fine... your carb tops are the stock type correct?

Never reuse head gaskets or any gasket for that matter. Regardless how that head gasket looks it needs to be replaced after its been used. I wouldnt risk destroying the top end over the cost of a gasket.

I have had wierd shifting issues with the case apart as well... once back together again everyting works fine.. probably the same case with you. You should be ok unless something is bent.

If the carbs have the stock caps then all you need to do is unplug the tors box itself and your set. Only need the removal kit if you want to remove the stock carb tops.

I'd love to, but the banshee down for a while being modded to the teeth.. ill think about it though, i do have a 3-wheeler.

I second Hilarious... when i ran that same setup at sea level i was at 310 on the mains, stock pilot and dynojet needle in the 4th clip and it ran & plug chopped perfectly. Everybike is different.

Noss head all the way.

Pretty quiet down here.... noticed there was no traffic this morning.. normally an hour drive to work only took 20min. So at least the protest was good for something in San Diego.

Have a stock crank and SST's for sale on ebay. PM me with offers if interested. Here are the ebay links: Crank SST Pipes

I got the SOB off, dont really want to talk about how.. but lets just say that mother fucking flywheel is gone. Lots of blood, sweat, more blood and a little tears.

hmmm.... also thinking about just welding the old puller onto the flywheel.. that may work.

was hoping to get it off without a specialty tool.

Ok, heres my deal.. splitting the cases right now (stoker stuff coming very soon) and my flywheel puller stripped and some of the threads on the flywheel pulled out with it. Dealer said it would be a week before the next shipmen of pullers. At this point I dont care if i screw up the flywheel, I'll just buy another one. Can someone give me some advise on getting this god forsaken flywheel off without the flywheel puller? Need to get the cases apart today.

If he stays with stock timing he may be ok.. i had +4 timing and 21's at glamis and destroyed both pistons in about 10min on 91 due to detonation, but then again every bike is different.

Lean condition was most likley caused by an airleak. Just order a Wiseco Piston kit and use the gaskets that come with it.

Mods are endless. Depends on how much money you want to spend... but to start you want (in this order): 1. Airfilter 2. Pipes 3. Remove TORs 4. Reeds That would be a good start, once you become addicted though you will be getting a port and new carbs, crank and everything. But the basics are pipes and a filter.

I dont have the VF3's either, but I do have the Noss head.. very simple install. Just make sure you do a compression test afterwards to see what your at and if you will need higher octane gas or not. There should be no jetting change for the head and domes... the reeds may require one though.

Has any one ordered a swinger from GRR? Does it come with the carrier? How would you compare it with Quicksands Products? I know hes much cheaper than quicksand.

Well.. to answer the first question, if you bike was running fine at 300 on the mains and all your adding is T-5's and +4 timing I would go up to 310 - 320 and do a plug chop. Now as far as octane. You could be ok, or you could not be ok. When I bumped the compression up on my bike it ran fine on 91, when I bumped the timing to +4 with the upped compression I destroyed a set of pistons on 91. It really depends on your elevation and whatnot. I run 50/50 race gas with pump with just my mods listed below.

Buddy of mine has a colorado, the inline 5 is actually pretty damn fast, but the truck is a piece of shit, has 32,000 miles on it already needed a new engine. Interior has fallen apart, exterior is falling apart. Granted he bought it the first model year, but still its a shitty truck with a fast but shitty motor in it.

23 and i still cant figure out how these damn condoms work.

Two-strokes can be very reliable, you just have to maintain them properly and make sure they are tuned correctly. Also as far as working on them goes, working on a two-stroke is as easy as it gets, not hard or complicated. Get yourself a clymers manual and you will be good to go. A four stroke requires mainentance as well, but if a four stroke breaks its gonna costs more to fix than a two stroke.

I had the same issue, but i have gotten used to it and know the needle position without having to see the numbers or colors... so it just takes a real quick glance.. but not nearly as trick as the homemade versions that go up near the tank.