watkins

Worked perfect, thanks.

Great Product, great customer service, great person. Need i say more.

Trying to mount up my shearers and my stock mounts aint getting it done. The Clutch side pipe actually fits fine and the stock hanger works for it... but the stator side.. the pipe hits the head and doesnt come in far enough.. so there is like almost a 1/2 gap in between the hanger and the pipe... any ideas? Also.. where can I buy some bolts for the silencer mounts? Mine didnt come with any.. just need to know the size.

Scratching my head here... got a pancake bearing from Passion and dont really know how to install this thing.... it came with all the proper parts, but I just dont get how to put the bearing assembly together.... maybe its just too late in the evening for me... anyways here is the pic of how i think its supposed to be setup.. please chime in. THanks.

Yeah I ended up just ordering it and I will just wait, too much time and money at stake to half step it.

Your compression is going to vary based on elevation and if you have a milled head or not. What elevation are you at?

Putting my motor back together and hit a stumbling block. My clymers says to replace the E-Clips on the shift fork shafts.... the e-clips I pulled off are in good shape but I dont want to risk a tranny for being cheap. The dealer says those have to be special ordered and will take a week to come in, do you know of anywhere else to buy these or do they have to be OEM? Same thing for the circlip on the idler gear. While I am at it am I missing any other little clips that need to be replaced (beside the piston clips)? dont want to get delayed again over something so small?

there we go... sometimes my mind draws blanks

Actually working on that too... getting one from Quicksand.

Its pretty easy, just make sure you have a torque wrench handy. Also I would invest in a clymers manual if you dont already have one. Basically...drain the coolant from the cylinders.. remove the head and throw away the head gasket, remove the cylinders. Then pull the clips out on each side of the piston... take a socket extension and put in the side of the piston and beat the little rod thingy out (cant think of the name of it)... pull the pistons out... do the reverse of what you just did to put new ones in.. also make sure the arrow on the top of the piston points towards the front of the bike. Put the rings on with the writing facing up, and line them up with the pin in the piston... slide the cylinders back on and use a new base gasket, put the head back on with a new head gasket.. torque everything in its proper order and to spec.... and your done. Best advice though is to get a cylmers manual it walks your through the entire process with pictures.

Well... I would hate to be in your position, but I would keep doing what you are doing and track him down.. if he did the work you contracted him to do I would personally just pay him and then never do business with him again... if he hasnt done any work I would just get the cylinders back from him and send them to a reputable builder (Passion, F.A.S.T.).... just my $0.02.

I dont but my Dirt Bike buddies swear by them.

Well.. going to be getting my passion stroker put together this week and know I am going to need to get rid of my sandstars and switch to haulers... need some advice though.... I plan on primarily just duning with the occasional drag... what size and how many paddles do you recommend with setup? I was leaning towards 20/10/10 9 paddle haulers, any advice?

Totally agreed... I've been as fast as 80mph on a shee, and it was cool for the first few seconds... then i started to think... wtf happens if i eat shit going this fast... not a good feeling... 90mph on a quad is insane unless your doing straightline dragging on a smooth surface.

A compression test is a good way to judge how good your top end is doing. Just get a good tester and test both cylinders... they should be within 10% of eachother.

Well.. like stated already when it blows, but also do compression checks periodically and you want both cylinders within 10% of eachother... or when your compression is pretty low its time for a rebuild.. you may be able to get away with just rings if your cylinders & pistons are in good shape. And a top end job is a piece of cake to do.. if you have never done it before then just make sure you have your clymers manual in hand... but it isnt rocket science.

Buddy of mine is selling his Sandstars & C-Series Rims (The rears). He wants $150+Shipping, told him I would link to his thread on YFZ tech. I will vouch for the tires, have less than 1 season on them and are in good shape. PM me if interested. Anyways.. here is the link to the sale: http://www.yfztech.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6577

Well.. I do like compliments, but your Dragon/Monster (whatever the hell it is) drawing had me beat hands down.. the shading was pretty damn good.

Here is a very scary bear idea.

I dont know the hill, but stock gearing will suck with your setup. Stick with wallrats recommendation and drop a tooth up front (so go with a 13 tooth sprocket). When I just had pipes & 13 tooth I could make it up anything.

I had FMF SST's and they worked awesome for a non-ported motor... but that was my mistake.. I should have gone with Fatty's to begin with. My 12-port project is going to be running shearers.... If I were you I would go with Toomey T5's... seems to be the one I see most out there... but if you never plan on porting your motor the FMF SST's perform very good, just fit kinda shitty.

I am 100% sure ... I thought the same thing as you when people first started talking.. but yesteday.. get home... open banshee hq.. browsing the forums... all of a sudden my virus scanner goes apeshit.... must be one of the rotating ads or something... but like i said.. doesnt bother me really.

You would be better off just keeping the stock CDI and getting an adjustable timing plate.

Got a virus yesterday from the HQ, but oh well.... the HQ is worth the occasional virus.