watkins

Yeah I took that damn thing off, mounted a little switch behind the radiator so i could still somewhat control who rode it... looks much better.

Well.. one thing I noticed that really wouldnt effect idle, but would save your top end is the increased compression & using regular pump gas. What elevation are you at? You might need to be running 50/50 race gas & pumpgas. 32:1 should be fine. Everybody has their preference, but the majority on here mix at 32:1

I 2nd that. Have one of his 200W stators on mine and I havent had any issues.

Well... depends on what you are looking for... to run the bike on pump gas then yes 175lbs psi is too much... or if you are looking for too much for a non-welded stock crank... well there isnt an exact science to that one, some cranks will work fine some will fall apart you will just have to ride it and see. How are you putting out 175 psi, with just a milled head that sounds kinda high.. are you sure your compression tester is good?

A buddy of mine got all his porting done from Ron @ RPS..... I cant vouch for his work but my buddy is really happy with the work that was done. Local builders can be great or they can suck, never be afraid to mail your stuff out to be worked on by a reputable builder, call Jim @ Passion Racing or Jeff @ F.A.S.T.

Smells like a vietnamese lunch room

Drags are indeed tomorrow night... gonna be hot. I'll be there, still up in the air if ill bring the banshee out or not. Look for a white 4x4 tundra with an red iron cross whip... with 3 mexicans and 1 white guy (me) with no bike just sitting there drinking.

Yeah Jim was telling me the plate motors like a boat load of fuel in the midrange and are a little trickier to jet.

Its running super rich right now so I know I need to lean it up some. This is for sea level jetting at 80 degrees. Just want a ballpark on where to start but I am not looking to get it dialed in... going to get some baseline jetting done, take it to the dyno & dial it in, then take it home and do some real world tuning on it (not the dyno's make believe world). Please chime in if you have a 12-port Stroker.

Ok, I have been reading the numerous topics about jetting the passion stroker and need a little advice. I recently got my jugs back from Jim and put the bike all back together, took it out last weekend with the jetting that came with the carbs (per Jims break-in recommendation) and it rips pretty darn good up top but is crappy everywhere else (which I expected). So now I am ready to get this thing dialed in. My intentions are to get it tuned on a dyno, but I want a good starting point so I can get the carbs almost there before wasting $$$ on the dyno. So here is what I got out of the other posts: 168main, 50 pilot, needle middle clip. Right now to get it to idle I had to turn the idle screw all the way in and it idles fine but a little high. Any help would be great. Here are the mods: Passion 12-port Stroker w/ Custom cut domes (no plate) 35mm PWK K&N Clamp-ons w/ outerwears V-Force 3 Shearer Inframes Timing +4 Running straight C12 (which I think is 108)

Pipes are a good start, but the very first thing I would do before getting pipes is get rid of the stock air filter... its a POS and will just cause problems. Get an airbox adapter and then either a K&N or UNI filter. After that then ditch TORS and the POS Parking break... that will give you a good running stock shee.... then you can mod the hell out of it with Power mods... just my $0.02.

Yeah for a while i was getting the cheap Costco bikes (Motive i think was the name) and would snap a frame almost every trip... so definitly spend the money for a good bike.

I too vote for Specialized.... now my bike was a bit more than $350 - 450 (try $2100), but my Specialized Stumpjumper has been to hell and back and is still in one piece. My old school GT Mountain bike held up good too... but started falling apart in the end. IMO Specialized makes some of the best mountain bikes out there.

Yeah.. 99% sure that just the pin that the plastic waterpump gear slips over... just remove the plastic gear and slip it back onto the impeller shaft.

Donno if the shee will be ready for the 8th or not... just finished putting together my 12port stroker.. taking it out tomorrow to ocotillo for its maiden voyage... if she holds together and doesnt blow a top end you may see me out there with it... otherwise i will probably bring my 200x 3-wheeler out there to show the guys what dragging is all about.

I dont know where you heard that but Fatty's are pretty much the same performance wise as T5's.... T6's should only be used if you dont ever plan on porting the bike. Keep your pipes and do what the others suggested, a coolhead, reeds, maybe lighten the flywheel and get an adjustable timing plate to move the timing up to +4. If you are interested in the timing plate I actually have one that I just pulled off a bike that I would be willing to sell cheap.. pm me if interested.

Thanks for the tip. I just finished reassembling the bike and am going to take it out this weekend... i am going to do a couple plug checks about 1 min into riding to see if they both are the same color... should tell me if one is leaning out.... and I guess I will just keep an eye on it.... I just get really anal about this stuff because like everybody I hate it when stuff goes wrong.... but I did spray the bike all down with start fluid after it was warmed up and nothing happened.... so unless I have a bad crank seal i think I am ok.... i think :shrug:

Ok.. just finished putting my Passion 12 Port Stoker together and am getting ready to take it out for the weekend... before taking mounting the motor to the frame I made a leakdown tester with a mighty vac and some tapered rubber plugs..... for some reason it kept leaking vaccum, and the more i messed with my rubber plugs the slower it leaked.. but in the end.. after 10 trips to the hardware store trying different plugs, caps, etc.. it still leaks slow (loses 6lbs in 10 seconds).... so... i put some pressure into the motor.. sprayed it down with soapy water... and no bubbles....so i fired it up... soaked the motor in starter fluid and no change in rpms (no reving or dieing)..... so.... perhaps my leakdown tester that I assembled is just a POS and isnt sealing properly... what do you all think? I have blown holes through pistons before for having an airleak and dont want to go through all that crap again. Any suggestions? The bike runs fine.. both spark plugs are the same color.

If gas is pouring out the carbs try tapping the float bowl (bottom part of the carb) with the end of a screw driver.. my stock carbs always had the floats stick after a cleaning..... Also.... you need to do what the others said and check the pickup gap.... since you dont have the tool to do it, take a book of matches.. .flip open the lid... and shove the lid in between the pickup coil and the bump on the flywheel.... it should fit in there snug... if its too tight or too lose then adjust it. Only thing I can think of.

Yeah if your talking about jugs for a bike then they are cylinders... all other uses refer to a womans breasts.

Me and some buddies were planning on going out... not bringing any bikes though.. just going out to watch.

Well.. i have some 8mm & 10mm bolts laying around and 8mm is just a hair too big, thats why i was figuring it was 7mm... can anybody chime in with an exact size.. i really want to get these pipes mounted up.... also.... is the silencer bolt the same size?

Just went back and checked.. yup.. it was your thread... thanks for the indirect help :biggrin: I would have been scratchin my head for a while trying to figure that one out .

There was actually a good topic about that I found... worked perfect.... wasnt too much of a pain to tighten.

So I assume a longer bolt is in order. Do you know what size that bolt is?