watkins

The pics are showing the exhaust port side.

Well.. here are the pictures of the first set of pistons I blew on this trip. I will take pictures of the other set tonight when I take the motor apart again (2nd set is the one with the hole in it). Also, while we are troubleshooting the cause, what can I do to get the piston replaced. Do I need to have the clyinders bored out again or can I just drop in a new piston without taking the cylinders to the shop.. they are smooth as a babys bottom.

Sorry for the stupid question to follow, but how should I check the crank? Do i need to split that cases (hope not). Also how should I check the CDI? Clymers doesnt list any testing procedures. How/Why would the pistons be slamming into the plugs? I will make sure I get pictures of the pistons for you. I am sure that will help in diagnosing this.

Initial blow I was running premium with no race gas. 2nd set of pistons I was running 20/80 Race Gas & Premium Both pistons were at 156psi before 1st blow up.. didnt measure it after the 2nd (didnt have all my tools). First set after inital blow look like they were beaten up pretty bad with an ice pick on the exhaust side of the piston. After the rebuild during the break in the left piston was fine except for the dime sized hole dead center, the rest of it looked good and the right piston looks fine..

Ok.. now the sucky part. Rebuilt it out at Glamis, fired up on the 2nd kick, was running like a champ using 20/80 of race gas and pump.. then bam... loss of power and I was only going like 1/2 throttle. Got it back to camp with only 1 side running, pulled the head and the left piston has a hole right through it, also the plug from the left side had a piece of it missing (the part that you gap), and these were new plugs that i just put in. The right piston looked fine. I have a few questions now..... 1. What could be causing this? Heres What I have checked so far: Checked the carbs & Jets, running dynojet needle 4th clip from blunt end & 320 mains. Checked for airleaks.. sprayed the bike down before I tried breaking in the new top end with Carb Cleaner and it didnt rev at all. Checked the Timing plate to see if it had come loose.. still right at +4. 2. Where do I go from here? The cylinders look great, no scratches or anything.. can I just purchase a new piston and slap it in or will I have to have it bored out again?

First day out at glamis and first ride with noss head with 21cc domes. Bike ran awesome for about 2 hours ans then all of a sudden the power dropped ans then it finally died. Tried kicking it over and it felt like there was no compression. Pulled the head and both pistons were missing a chunk in the front of the piston in the same exact spot. Just finished rebuilding it and am concerned about what could have caused this... Jetting is a little rich, but I was juat running pump gas. Could running pump gas with the increased compression caused this... I just am trying to cover all the bases before I ride tomorrow, I also checked for air leaks and didn't find anything

Loading the truck up for a trip out to Glamis and wondering if I should pickup some race gas just to be safe. I am running 156 psi compression with +4 timing. Should I pick some C-12 up and run like a 20/80 mix of C-12 and 91?

Not as good.. but here ya go: A little boy and a pedophile are walking in the deep, dark, woods. The little boy says, "Mister, I'm scared! These woods are really creepy." The pedophile replies, "How do you think I feel? I have to walk back all by myself."

If i compress the front suspension and slowly let it up the front left shock makes a creaking noise...... should this concern me or is it fairly normal? Shock looks good, arms look good... any thoughts?

I will be there the 21 - 23rd, down by pad 3.

Its exposed

Thanks for the response. Tors has been removed, and the cable going into the carbs is fine (screws are not backed out)... what do you use to lube the slides? I do have a spare throttle cable around, I may slap that on there just to troubleshoot.

Throttle keeps sticking on the bike, I can have it in idle and can rev it all day long with no problems but as soon as i put it in gear and hit the powerband the throttle will stick.. a simple blip of the throttle will get it unstuck.. cant figure it out.. have cleaned the carbs twice, lubed the throttle cable... still scratching my head. Its been going on for a month now, It normally doesnt bother me too bad on the hard pack.. but heading out to glamis next week and I can just see a stuck throttle f*kin me up. First noticed it after I bumped up the timing +4 and lightened the flywheel.. .but I also changed some jetting around at the same time.. so im lost now.

Sitting on the bike, the bike rolls fine, and there is very very little play (but still some) with me sitting on it.. is this normal? I strapped the grapbar to the swinger and the freeplay is a little less than 1/2 inch in each direction, and the shock is 95% compressed.

I found it. nevermind. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=40935&hl=

Installed new needles this morning, and now am 2nd guessing myself when it comes to the small piece that covers the needle and the throttle cable hooks onto. It has a hole in the front of it... does that hole line up with the hole on the slide so you can see through it.. or does it go the otherway so that hole on the slide is blocked off.. i cant ever remember this part.

My GPS hit 83mph with just a piped banshee.... however there was a gale force wind pushing me as well.

Just got a casesaver from modquad, and since it doesnt come with instructions I have been searching the forums to see if there are any... havent found anything so I figured I would post. Here is the way I mounted it and I am wondering if this is correct: I remove the 3 screws from the white cover below the sprocket, I left the plug in place and screwed the casesaver ontop of the white cover. Is this correct? My case saver has like a plug on the back of it but has a screwhole through the center.

Thanks for the responses guys. I guess I will just throw them in and try it all out. My only concern is that I have a big weekend at Glamis comin up and want this thing dialed in before I get out there. All my searching on the forums really hasnt answered anything for me. I just show that some people like them and some people dont, but it really doesnt say why. I am just trying to avoid problems. If my bike will run just as well as it did with the stock needle then thats what I am after. I am not looking to gain anything by using the dynojet needle, i am just trying to save some cash.

Since they have more grooves, what needle position are you using? Or does it matter, because I know they are longer needles? Currently my stock needle is 4th notch (from blunt end)

Having problems with one of my slides sticking. Took the carbs apart and found one of the needles was bent. Straightened it out, and it seemed to work fine but I really dont like the idea of a f*k'd up needle.. I am trying to replace it and the dealership wants like $30 for just one. F*K that. I have a dynojet kit that I have never even opened and I was wondering if there would be any pro's or con's to swapping out my stock needles with the dynojet needles. I am not really going to have an oppourtunity to test it before my next big trip (next weekend) so.... any thoughts?

Paddles are Sand Stars 20x11x10

Ok.. here may be a stupid question..... When I put the chain back on the bike I had some trouble getting the c-clip back on the master link. I finally the clip on and it seems to hold the link in place, just the c-clip has a little free play in it. it wiggles up/down (but not left/right)... should I be concerned? Just do not want my chain flying off while riding and injuring me or my goat.