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Everything posted by watkins
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Im not 100% sure its accurate but I trust it. Its color coded too, so you know when your in normal operating temp and when you are overheating, based on about 10 trips with it I would say its very accurate..... under normal riding condition the needle is where it should be... if I lug it around in 1st gear for an extended period of time it shows the bike is overheating.... But like I said, you can make your own too, there are instructions on the boards here somewhere just search for temp gauge.
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Took about a 2 min to install... very simple.. the instructions worked for me.. cant really remember how detailed they were.
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The HQ photo Story *** done***
watkins replied to 98bonerSTOCKshee's topic in General Banshee Discussion
PM me your email addy and ill send you some pics. -
Well.. i like the +4 idea too.. where should I get it from? I was looking at quicksand and modquad.. both are the same price (look identical too)... any suggestions on who to buy from? Was hoping to order it today.
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You can make your own for like $15 or you can take the lazy route like I did and buy one of these: http://www.warpdriveperformance.com/ They are only $35.
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Well.. what would you recommend then? I see you are running a -2 with your 12-port... isnt it a little sketchy?
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My only reservation with going longer than +4 is I want it to handle ok on the hard pack too, I do ride open desert as well. How will +6 handle for regular dune riding? I am not trying to make my bike a drag only bike, want to still be able to have the freedom to ride wherever whenever. I know tight trails will be out, but thats fine.
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selling my SST's & Turbinecore2 Silencers. Less than 1 year old. In good shape. There is blueing down by where they hookup to the cylinders and there is a ding in the right pipe but its a small ding. Chrome is in good shape with some light scratches that should be able to be polished out. May be thinking too high here, but I want $440 shipped..... I paid almost $700 new and that was 10 months ago. I will have pics later today.
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Cylinders are at Passion waiting to be ported (12-port Stroker). Jim's pretty busy so its gonna be a while before I get them back. While I am waiting I figured I'd overhaul the suspension (which I am doing) but had a few other questions. Bike is going to be mainly a duner, what size swinger do I need? I was just gonna keep it stock, but that may be suicide with the 12-port stroker. Would +4 be enough to get by with in the dunes and also do some dragging? Also, I currently run SandStar tires and I hear that my bike isnt going to hookup with those anymore... so I guess I am in the market for some Haulers, how many paddles will should I get? What size tire? 20, 21 ,22? Bike should be around 80hp when all said and done. Lots of questions, hopefully you can help.
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Pics Added
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PM Sent. Also, I will have pics of all items listed posted later tonight.
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PM sent.
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I have a set of stock bars with pad. PM if interested.
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I have some blue rears
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Bunch of used stock parts for sale. All in great condition. Going on Ebay next, wanted to see if any HQ'ers needed any of the following: Stock Carbs, Tors Removed, includes Throttle Cable & Idle screws installed -- SOLD! Carb Pic 1 Carb Pic 2 Stock Reeds & cages with stock crossover tube & boots -- SOLD! Reeds Pic 1 Reeds Pic 2 Reeds Pic 3 Stock Airbox with a Prodesign K&N Adapter. Also includes K&N Filter w/ Outerwear (also includes lid & snorkel) Airbox Pic 1 Airbox Pic 2 Airbox Pic 3 Stock Handlebars & stock bar mount -- SOLD! Handlebar Pic Stock headlights (wire connections have been cut) -- SOLD! Headlight Pic 1 Headlight Pic 2 Stock Tors Crap -- SOLD! Tors Pic Stock Stator Plate -- SOLD! Stator Plate Pic Stock Heel Guards Heelguard Pic Stock Bumper -- SOLD! Bumper Pic Stock Head (perfect condition, never milled) Head Pic 2qt of Yamalube Premix Oil (dont know if its legal to ship or not) -- SOLD! PM me with any offers.
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Duplicate Topic. Please delete.
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Alright now what do you do if you strip a screw?
watkins replied to 01bansheefox's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I had the same issue. I used a dremel to cut them to accept a flathead screw driver and then used an impact screw driver to get them out (the kind you hit with a hammer)... after I got them all out I replaced them with Stainless Steel Hex bolts. Good luck. -
Kool.. just making sure. Also... as backwards as it sounds.... more oil in the mix = lean... less oil = rich... However I would run it 32:1, the dealer had some 20:1 in there when I bought mine and it ran lke crap. 20:1 isnt going to hurt it, but it is not necessary.
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Couple questions... Are you riding it when you experience the lugging? Is this your first banshee? Or 2-stroke for that matter? If so... then thats how a 2-stoke works... no bottom end, then has insane power when you hit the powerband.
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Those were some serious questions, you already said you arent mechanically inclined so I was just covering the basics... How do you know your bike is overheating? If you dont want my help thats fine too.... just trying to guide you in the right direction. Just dont want you to go pulling the head off if you dont need to... especially since you dont know what your doing. But then again im hilarious
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Yes drilling/tapping the carbs is easy... just take it slow. Sweet sig wallrat
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How do you know for sure that the bike is overheating? Just because a little coolant is dripping out? I have a temperature gauge installed on my bike and even when its within normal operating temp it still will piss out a little coolant on my pipes when i come to a stop. Now as for the smoke you say is pouring out when you stop are you sure thats not just smoke from the exhaust blowing past you?
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With 21cc domes and +4 Timing I blew a set up pistons due to detonation. You may get away with it, you may not. I'd rather error on the safe side and mix race gas with pump gas.
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If you have a clymers its basic, if you dont its still pretty easy. Drain the coolant, pull the head, pull the cylinders. If a top end hasnt been done since 99, I would really check the conditions of the cylinders and pistons. If everything is still in good shape then just slap in the new rings, replace all gaskets and reassemble... shouldnt take you long at all. But I would make sure the cylinders and pistons are still good while you have it apart.
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If these are the pipes I am thinking of then you may have some performance issues:

