MotulMonsta

Banshee frames arn't very strong. My frame is cracked, tweaked and just about worn out, It's only got 2 years of hard riding on it. It's still good though..I'm going to wait until winter and get a new frame.

No, I wouldn't...Carb cleaner has MEK in it, MEK will turn rubber into goo.

Naa, all you have to do is change the plug ends and all the year model cdi's will fit right up. The cdi's are pretty much the same throughout the years.

Can you crank the motor over?? If you can, it ain't seized.

You need honda spindles, shocks, basically you need a 250r chassis minus the frame and plastic.

Hmmmm...So long as the pistons' stroke doesn't mess up your port dynamics and the ports are completly covered during their cycles I don't see why it wouldn't work. Be shure to check your head clearance before you run the motor.

Shit, the only added cooling I got to my shee is an impeller from pro design. Never had overheating issues after that. Well I did take a whole day and straightened out every fin on my radiator then stripped it of paint..paint holds some heat in.

You should hear my old 87 mill purr...I'll be next to other mugs on their newer shee's and their bikes sound weak compared to mine. All in the pipes. Maybe your old pipes are just a bit clogged up..jetting could be off..cdi could be weak..there are a number of issues that have to be looked at..It's all about time and money. How much time do you want to spend and how much cash you want to burn.

Well, new seals have quite a bit of drag on them. Did you lube the seals up? I torque the shit out of my axle nut..the spacer inside the carrier will hold the pressure, keeping it off the bearings so you really can't overtighten it unless you start shitting threads out. I would take the axle carrier apart and inspect the bearings. Try to rotate them by hand. Then check to makeshure your rear caliper is setup right and then check to see if the rotor's warped. I recently had my swing arm all apart, changed my brakepads, put the whole thing back together and I had a shitload of drag..so I took the caliper off and it was smooth..found out my adapter plate was bent. I got a new one and it was all good.

I run what ever is the cheapest seeing as I drain it out every two weeks. Right now I got some generic 10w40 in there cost me a 1.25 per quart. I can't see myself buying a 5 dollar bottle of tranny juice just to dump it two weeks later..waste of money.

ATCO raceway hold wen. practice from 4:30-9 pm every wensday. I should be down there this wensday so long as weather permits..call ahead and makeshure they are open..last time I rolled 2 hours to get there and they were close due to a little drizzle.

Well, if you have a purple power band, you have to keep the clutch 1/3 in and 55/64 full throttle Now the pink power band you have to lightly feather the cutch to full extension while whistiling dixie and scratching your nuts at the same time.. Dem's jokes!! No really, You gotx to use fancy clutch work to keep the motor in the meat..Abuse the clutch, that's what it's there for. When you find the motor lugging and bogging down, just pull in the clutch a bit..just enough to get the rpm's back up then feather it out..quickly releasing then engaging the lever very minutely and very rapidly while feeling what the engine is doing and once it grabs, balls out to the next corner. The throttle is pretty much pinned and all the work is being done by the clutch hand. That's how you keep the motor in the meat...least how I do it. I try to shift as little as possible and carry a tall gear through the corner so I don't loose time shifting. It's hard on the clutch but it works...I like it when I smoke a 4 stroke out of the hole..good feeling.

Women

Well, I think the fox airshock is pretty interesting. But using regular air will build up heat and when heat builds up, the air will expand increasing the pressure which will throw everything off. Nitrogen won't solve that problem. Nitrogen is used because it's an inert gas, it won't catch fire nor will it hold moisture. It will expand and contract with changes in temp. Now if there was someway to regulate the temp then the shock would be something...As of right now I don't see it as being able to withstand a day of moto-x. Still interesting technology none-the-less.

Just makeshure the gas your getting doesn't contain all the additives the FAA requires for aviation fuels. There's an additive to scavenge the lead from the cylinders and an anti-icing additive..the anti-icing additive is what you need to look out for. Also the lead scavaging addative causes the lead to form a poisonous and toxic chemical compound that's really bad for your heath..Lead bromide I think it's called..bad news. Other then that av gas has lower vaprization pressure..think it's about 7 psi..pump gas has around 15 psi..which means the gas needs less atmospheric pressure to keep it as a liquid...it doen't vaporize as easily as pumpgas...In the air that's a good thing as increased altitude has a decrease in atmospheric pressure..if the plane was running pumpgas and the pressure dropped below 15 psi..there is a good chance that the fuel lines will form a vapor lock and starve the engine of fuel.

Ahh sleepers suck. Just put on the longer swingarm and quit bitchin'..stock banshees have horrible handling manners and when you do nothing but build up the motor, you'll reach the limits of the chassis in no time. A stock motor in a setup frame is much better overall then a built motor in a stock frame.

I don't wear a helemet!!! Only pussies wear helmets..but I do carry around a ladle and a ziplock bag so the paramedics can scoop my brains up after I crash

That's funny!! I bet Ol' gust said What's up now Bitches!! I ain't no cheater! I'm just good is all..Don't hate the player, Hate the game!. And as far as I know, there is no 350cc class anywhere in atva or ama off road racing..there's a 250 a,b,c, pro and pro/am, 2 stroke open a,b,c, 4 stroke a,b,c, pro, pro/am and 4 stroke open. So if you got a banshee, you have to run in the 2 stroke open class. So you might as well run a big bore kit.

Yeah, my shee's been doing it for years..Haven't figured out why...and no my leakage isn't caused by water pump seepage or crankcase venting or bad crank seals...I've rebuilt the motor twice and have check each of these factors. I think when my clutch blew up and ate the inside of the cases and I had to remove and smooth out some of the material, maybe the oil now has a direct path to flow out from..I'm not too concerned any more..I simply check my tranny fluid more often and add as required..But one thing I don't like is when I park and all the oil that's in the vent tubes comes out and leaves a nice little puddle. My engine is old and has a shit load of hours on it..it's an 87 mill. If it isn't a lot of oil, I wouldn't be too concerned.

Ditch the purple..shit looks retro 80's style. I'd have to see one in person before I'd consider dropping 17 grand on it.

Used frame? 250 bucks alone unless it's tweaked then 0 dollars. Full rolling chasis..I'd say since it's an 89 and it's been hacked 1000 at the most unless you find a sucker.

sweetshee4312, If you can't figure it out on your own, then your not old enough. Trial and error my freind keep at it it until you get it right or until you almost kill yourself in the process.

Yeah, you can slap in heavier springs..but the stock plates will wear faster. I'm not shure where you can find heavier springs without ordering a kit but I assume that if you order from a larger displacement bike, they'll have heavier springs.

I don't run any oil. I just piss in the gas and mix it up..then I piss in the tranny until it's full.

Never heard that before..honed true to the crank..I've never sent the bottom end of my motor with my cylinders to be honed..just hand the dude the pistons you want to slap in there, bore the bitch out and hone it. So long as you have a way to secure the cylinder, proper tools and measuring equipment you can do it at home...No if your using a cordless drill with a honing bit on the end of it..yeah your going to f*ck it up. You can even get a way with using a fine grit sandpaper to break the glaze. I've seen it done.