MotulMonsta

Look for a local engine builder..They usualy do the best work at the best price..I just had my rear shock totaly rebuilt..I fuckin' collapsed it and had major valve damage..along with rebuilding my front shocks..cost me 520 bucks..that's cheap shit for 3 shocks...He also does mean port work. Best part he lives like a 1/2 hour from me so I don't have to pay shipping...just drop the stuff off.

Coil is relitively cheap..like 20 bucks and that includes plug wires..A faulty coil will give you a weak spark and/or no spark in one cylinder.

I got my money on the brakes too.

Get the Lonestare axcaliber axle..best on the market..They don't break. Durablue's have a bad habbit of breaking..but LS will bend. But both are warrentied and they'll be replaced should something happen. You don't need new hubs, chain and brake bosses..they should fit right up.

Who's gonna roll out to the riding area in Chatsworth NJ this sunday? I'm going to be there with my brother..he just put a +3 gibson longtravel fron end on w/ elka shocks so we got a bit of dialing in to do.

If you replace your A-arms with an aftermarket set, the kit should contain everything you need. Now if they are charging you for tie rods..then they're ripping you off.

No, you can hone cylinders yourself. All you need is a drill press and some way to secure the cylinder. The real skill comes in the cross-hatch pattern. You got to get that right. I belive each line should intersect at about 45 deg. to each other. Not shure about that though. My dad used to hone cylinders at the house all the time when I was a kid. Chevy engines, brigs and stratton motors..shit like that.

Your lucky...I fucked up my crank using a gear puller.

If money is no option...I suggest the outlaw banshee chassis from lonestar or better yet Leager makes a killer banshee chassis..Get that $2,200 roughly and then a longtravel lobo II front ent at +3 wide $1,000 and a -1 leager swing arm w/ roundhouse carrier and a adjustable +1 - +3 axle on the read Lonestar axcaliber 340 bones and then top that package with a complet custom axis longtravel suspension kit with comp and rebound adjusters $1600..Not to forget all the odds and ends like honda spindles and all the little extras..Your probly going to burn an easy 8 grand or more. Or just get a +2, +1 fwd Lonestar A-arm set for about 800 bones and a lonestar -1 swingarm for another 800. Plus 1600 for custom axis shocks. You'll be spending some cash.

I've ran turf tamers, Realtors, Holeshot mx's, Holestot standard and OEM's. The best tires out of those are the Holeshot MX's..They hook up fuckin' great. But the mx's don't last long. The holeshot standards I gave to my brother along with my old beadlock rims..These tires are over 3 years old and still going strong. Realtors work good up in the mountains of Penn...they got me up coal mountain many of times..but they make too much noise and don't like hard packed terrain. OEM's just plain out suck..Turf tamers were good..but they punture too easily.

Why did I waste my time reading this thread?

Oh, the V-force reeds will require a jet change.

My shee makes a rrraaamp raaaamp sound..then a ninng na niing ning niiing

I was about to say..the older calipers hold air..I had the same issues when I changed over to braided brake lines..took me 3 days to bleed all the air out..I though my master cylinder crapped itself.

It'll run 110..But just remember...Octane rating is the anti-dentonation properties of the fuel. When you run a low grade furl say 89 pump gas in a high compression motor, the heptane will ignite before the piston reaches top dead center and you'll have engine knock or detonation..bad shit. Octane on the other hand slows the combustion of the fuel and prevents it from spontaniusly igniting. So you can run a high octane fuel in a low compression motor..it won't hurt anything but if you ran a low octane fuel in a high compression motor..you might blow it up...If your bike runs fine on pump gas..use pumpgas as it's cheaper...unless you don't care about the cost..then go balls out on high grade race fuel. My shee had about 181 psi of compression and I ran it on pump gas.

Wait you have a .25 over bore and you don't know what the bore size is? Now is this .25 in inches or millimeters? Usualy overbores are measured in inches. And .25 inch overbore is beyond the cylinder's limits..So you must be refering to a metric size as the stock piston is 64.00mm and the first overbore size is 60.25mm or .010 in. over stock.

You really can't bend stock axles back without loosing strength in the metal.

Don't go by temp..go by exhaust pressure..start it up and put your hands by the muffler so you can feel the exhaust as it exits..if one side puts out more pressure then the other..then you have a problem

If you can find the right size and they can handle the heat and won't deteriorate...Pool filter hose isn't any good.

That's a whole lot of effort..I wouldn't even bother.

Trick is, TAKE the brackets off the frame, then put the pipes on, attach the springs then re-install the brakets. Make shure you rotate the bracket so it lones up with the hole on the pipe. Now put the bolts in and tighten them up. All of toomey's pipes are built from the same jig..so unless you got a bent frame or a cocked engine it should all fit. I have minor issues getting the r/h pipe in sometimes, but that's because my steering damper gets in the way.

You know, when was the last time you went over the wires? Might have another problem that your unaware of. Maybe bad connection somewhere..maybe your coil is worn from age..maybe your stator's on it's way out. A new CDI won't fix any of these problems. And let's just say you drop that 300 bones and your still trying to start the machine up? Now you've wasted money fixing a problem that didn't exist....cdi should be the last think you replace in your ignition system simply because there is no test..it will work or it won't..you have to rule out every other possibility before you blame the cdi.

Looks like the 87 suzuki 250 runs the same setup as well.

I'm the fuckin man!! Check this link out http://216.37.204.205/Honda_OEM/HondaATV.a...pe=13&A=19&B=33 It's the 300ex from honda same brakes as a banshee.

I rebuilt my brakes a year ago..had to order off of a honda atv. Same damn brakes but honda carries the parts. You can get everything from the piston, to the piston seal, the parking brake asy, the rubber boots, the guide pins..try to get that from yamaha and your shit out of luck...just have to remember which atv it was...it was a 1986 something..I think 200x or 250x...might have been a three wheeler..