MotulMonsta

Stay away from AC propegs. Unless they changed them within the last year, the rungs of the pegs are made of aluminum and won't last you a year of hard riding before they are dull little nubs. Look for something with steel pegs.

You better learn fast how to work on your own machine...When that shit breaks down on you in the middle of nowhere..you gotx to be able to pull some mcguiver shit to get you back home.

Sag is what you set on dirtbike's..doesn't apply to quads. You should be concerned soley with ride height after you have the proper spring weight selected. It all depends on what kind of riding you do. For MX, an ideal setting is about 8 in or so from the lower frame rails by the footpegs to the ground. adjust your preload to obtain that height. Preload shouldn't be used to overcompensate for weak springs and poor damping. It's sole purpose is to adjust the ride height of the machine. It's all a ballance and it's a pain in the ass to setup right. Plus it gets expensive and time consuming changing springs and re-valving trying to get that ballance. I like to set mine so the front end is about an 1 1/2 higher then the rear frame rails. It provides a good attack angle and helps ballance the machine out..but it also cause you to bottom out on the rear end first when you mess up.

Did you count the airscrew turns? try tuning it out..It's an old trick to get more gas through the pilot..see if that helps.

To each his own. Good rule of thumb, if you can pull the chain off of 4 teeth from the rear sprocket, it's too loose. However you set it up, if your not throwing chains and eating up sprockets then your doing something right.

Go up on the mains. It's running lean.

I don't ever see myself selling my shee. Lost a few girlfreinds to her..but I don't care. You can't throw the girlfreind in the shed and forget about her then expect to ride the shit out of her a few weeks later then throw her back in the shed again...but then again if i sunk the time and..Getting off topic.I once gave up gettin laid to go riding..That's dedication.

You won't need to mill your head if it's a cool head. They have interchangeable domes. The pro flow impeller will do wonders to the cooling efficiancy of the motor along with stripping the paint off the radiator and straightening out EVERY bent colling fin.

Oh wait..there is one more track..but it's WAY south jersey..it's in so south jersey that REAL NJ peeps don't even consider it part of the state..hell most people in NJ never go that far south. Forgot what it's called..Nice track..but I'd drive to penn before I drive there..Penn is a hell of a lot close to me. Do a search of the web for tracks in NJ You'll find it.

Atco raceway in..dun da atco NJ. Search for it on the web..you'll find it. Other then E-town, Atco and chatsworth, you gotta poach to ride in NJ.

The main jet is where the needle slides into. The number on the side is the size. The pilot is foward of the main and it's burried you need a small flatehead to extract it. Don't worry about the pilot right now..if your machine idles and doesn't stall then it's doing it's job.

fuel + spark = boom

Don't use soap and water unless you flush the cases with the above solvents. Don't use gas..you might get hurt.

1/4 in deflection with no weight on the machine. That's what the book says

you can spin the pistons along it's yaw axis(verical)? You got shot bearings in there. You'll get a little movement but it shouldn't be alot. Now remember the rods use roller bearings on both ends and they slide left to right along the crank and wrist pin..that play is allowed. but up and down motion is a no go. It won't cost you much to put new wrist pin bearings in there..hell buy a kit for 40 bucks it'll have rings, bearings and new wristpins and clips. The lower rod bearings are going to be the bitch. You got to split the crank for that...It's cheaper to buy a complete crank from wiseco then to split a stock crank.

If it pops..it's not getting enough fuel. change the jetting. Also check your spark. When I rebuilt my machine the first time, it had the same issues. one of my jets was clogged and it was too lean. When I last rebuilt my shee....she started on the first kick..no bullshitting. Of course I had done a complete rebuild frame and all. replaced the entire electrical system. Tired of the intermitten sparks, days of no starts and just plain tempramenatal status. Now she'll start on the first kick almost every time and if by the third kick..usualy I forgot to put the key in and then it'll start right up. Your overlooking somthing simple. don't be lazy..tear it apart and look for something wrong..then fix it. Don't know how many times I would be kicking myself in the ass at the track because I overlooked somthing simple.

Well, my first guess would be to check your slides and make shure they're in sync(not the band) after you enshure they are by watching the little windows while opening the throttle and seeing if the dot's line up at the same time. Then I'd move onto jetting. pull your plugs out, clean em up and have a run at it..full throttle after the engines warmed up and you've been through the gears, pull the plugs and see what color they are. If they are black and oily, your too rich...likewise if they are white..your too lean. You want to see a nice toasty brown or something pretty damn close...you don't want to spend all day to find that"perfect jet setting" close enough is good enough when you want to ride. Now if your still bogging after that..stock banshees always bog off idle. Genetic defect. Make shure your filter is clean and isn't over oiled. These are the simple things you can do. If you still don't like the bog, time to take shit apart. First check your spark..both plugs should fire at the same time every revolution of the motor. If it doesn't or is intermitten..you got electrical issues..could be simple could be complex..leave that alone for now. Let's say that it's good. Now pull your carbs out and check the float hieght..it should close off the valve at approximatly 10-15 deg angle from the top. if they close it at more then thay, fuel starvation could be causing a slight bog, any more and you'll get vapor lock in the bowl which will cause it to bog. Also check to make shue EVERYTHING is clean and the needles are straight. now put em back together slap em on and ride. You might also want to adjust your idle and air screws. Turn it out you can offset the pilot tricking the carb to think it's bigger, turning it in does the opposite. If your going in this deep, be patient as it will take some trial and error...check your reeds. A good set of reeds will make a world of diffrence in power and throttle response. They should sit flush on the cage with no gaps. Hope this helps.

I'm thinkin Lucas oil stabilizer is a bit too thick to run in a wet type clutch...might cause it to slip. I've never heard of anyone running it so I don't know what it will do. It does have real thick viscosity and feels like assembly lube..kinda tacky..I'm thinkin it will form a film around the plates causing them to slip..you don't want that. My tranny is from 1987 and it still going strong..a little worn..but that is to be expected. I've used nothing but budget grade cheepo oil for the last upteen years in it and it's held up to my abuse fine..and I do abuse my tranny and cluch...So, I would advise against paying more then 2 bones a quart for any oil you throw in there..just make shure it's not synthetic.

Don't waste the cash on bored out stock carbs..The V-force reeds you want to get will out flow them. Kehnin PWK's are a real good choice carb wise but you'll need to run reed spacers to clear the float bowl vent lines. Think about what kind of riding you will mainly be doing. 28mm is a good choice for woods/trails/MX..any type of riding requiring max low end response..but the banshee will really wake up with a set of anything over 30mm.

Don't listen to these rookies! V-force reeds are a bit pricey at about 230 bones..but they are worth their weight in gold. They Improve throttle response all around and gives you a much crisper feel. Expect to pay more for quality goods. I've had the same set of reeds installed in my V-force 2's for close to three years now and they have yet to let me down.

That lag that you're reffering to is basically dependent upon the pipe's design. What happens is the engine is sending out shock waves or sound pulses at cirtain rpms. Tuned pipes are designed to take advantage of this by reverbrating that sound pulse back into the motor in a specific amount of time. When that pulse hits the incoming fuel/air charge, it pressurizes it. My explanation is way simplified. But the Banshee's motor is lacking a power valve so there will always be a shortage of bottom end power until the engines harmonics are in sync and you basically are on the pipe in the meat of the powerband..hence the lag.

Well, I've never ridden in the dunes so I don't know how a banshee handles in that kind of sand. But I do know a tiny bit on how the banshee handles on an mx track and well..it does lack in the suspension department and weight bias big time. Granted I know how my banshee handles on the track and in the air..but their are 2 things I always find myself saying at the end of the day..1 is wishing I could get at least 2 more inches of travel so my frame doesn't keep hitting the ground 2 How can I loose some weight of this pig? A banshee will beat you up on the track and it takes a skilled rider to run her right but man does it wear a mofo out..please god all I need is 2 more inches of travel and then I'll clear those triples without casing it..Has anyone seen the leager banshee chassis or the Lonestar outlaw chassis? See how close together the front frame rails are and did you also notice it's 4.5 degree upward cant? That's what you need to get a nice set of 21in long shocks on there with a rebound damper adjuster..that'll give you upwards of 11-12 inches of travel.

It wasn't synthetic oil was it? Ester based synthetics will bond to the fiber in the plates and reduce the friction and reduced friction causes clutch slippage. Also New clutch plates won't work their best until they are broken in a bit..they need a little wear on em. You did replace the clutch as a whole not just the fiber plates right? Your old stock metal plates won't work with the barnette's larger fibers plates. I'd go ahead and pull off the side case if you can't get it adjusted out on the clutch perch and pull the clutch apart again just to double check everything.

Artic Cat makes a mean 4 stroke Snow Mobile that's got a comfy seat. My buddy Neal used to race Artic cat's snow pro 440's and told be my banshee feels like a damn snow mobile. It is a shame with these new quads how they are so damn uncomfortable to sit on. I love my Banshee's seat and so does my other buddy who owns a yfz 450..He friggan hates the seat on his quad with a passion. Don't know why they can't make em softer.

You wasted your money on the RAD valves. Stock cages flow better then they do.