Lepew

I had a set of haulers that would leak at the bead also. The rims were straightened after a few minor dings, so I figured the leak was due to a little distortion of the rim. I bought some 3-M window sealer in a caulking tube and ran a bead around the rim before I set the tire bead. Never had problems with leaking again. If you try 3-m be careful not to buy the window glue, it will fix the leak also but you will never remove the tire from the rim.

I researched it and I don't think it is worth it. I would go with adjustable aftermarket a-arms.

The washer fits over the exhaust port of the cylinder and the sharp edge of the pipe that normally wears into the cylinder will wear into the washer. You could put a washer into the pipe like you thought I meant, but I am not sure the pipe has a consistant shoulder for the washer to lay flat on.

Yes, You probably won't find a washer large enough that is thin. If you use a thick washer it may misaline the pipes to the silencers. I use high temp black silicone to seal all my pipes to the cylinders, even if the pipes use a oring. I don't like black goo running down the front of my motor.

To prevent the pipes from wearing into the cylinder slip a custom large washer over the exhaust then just seal the pipes with high temp silicone when you slip them on. They don't use the o-rings.

What year are your Paul Turners? The older ones did'nt have a grooove for the o-ring in the pipe.

Here is a idea to chop a stocker. You can get the tube on the web thru a guy in oregon.

In excellent condition nothing cracked, broken or burnt. Normal riding scratches and scuffs. All original stickers are still on it, with seat with a matching Cascade seat cover. Located in Oregon. $325 PM me if your interested

Well, here is a little research. You'll find more sites with simalar info. http://www.breakthechain.org/exclusives/ballpit.html

I would like to seee some photos too.

A Banshee can have eccessive cylinder to wall clearance and still have full compression. If you remove the cylinders and measure the pistons you will probably find they are deformed and need to be replaced. If you run the pistons too long there is the risk of breaking the skirt off from piston slap or scuffing the cylinder walls and needing a rebore verses just new pistons.

I had a tire shop ruin a atv tire that I was swapping to another wheel. I did some research and built a bead breaker similar to harbor freights ITEM 92961-2VGA bead breaker. It worked awsome if I did two things: Break the bead with a little air in the tire (this means breaking the first bead then puting air into the tire witout setting the first bead to break the secound bead) it helps support the side wall and puts the bead breakers force to the bead. Lube between the bead and rim with soapy water. Work the bead breaker around the rim to work the lube to the tire bead before you try to really break the bead off the rim(anything you lube and work right gets off better :biggrin: ) Another note: I used a 3/4" thick dense foam rubber mat below the wheel and tire to protect the rim. Like anything it is simple if you know the tricks.

Most all a-arm manufactures don't require spindle reaming. LSR a-arms don't require spindle reaming anymore.

To be street legal a vehicle must meet the US Dept. of Transportations vehicle design safety and equipment requirements and US Environmental Protection Agency's emission standards. That really puts it out of any states jurisdiction to allow any offroad vehicles "street legal" The Banshee far from meets both and if it were modified, who modified it would have to certify that it did. If it was modified in 2007 it would have to meet all 2007 standards. The standards are pretty strict, look at all the crap Ford has done to the Powerstroke to meet 2008 emmission standards. I once had the State of Oregon give me a license plate for my dirt bike. Unless someone pushed the issue, if I added a Street Kit I could have rode it kind of legally on public roads.

I thought you posted your going to Oregon. If you are Oregon dosen't require a registration for offroad. It is a option if you want to donate $55 to DMV and you still have to puchase a ATV permit besides. You do have to have some numbers for a ATV permit like the engine serail # if that is all you have. When I've bought permits I could have rattled off about 12 random digits because I have never had a vendor check the accuracy of the VIN #.

A blue tipped wrench could burn a slice thru the races without damaging the carrier if that is the only thing keeping the carriers useable again. You just need someone comfortable with a cutting torch. I have sliced the inner and outer races with a torch to removed the axle and replace the bearings with no damaged to any parts other than burning a little paint.

I would have to disagree on wd-40 being corrosive. It is not a permenant lube it is to light to last, but because of that it helps to keep the sand from sticking. On door hinges you usually wash out the grease with the WD and after the short term nature of WD you have no lube at all. I agree with anyone who uses it to help protect parts that corrode on their bike. Any bike that has been thru saltwater will have stuff growing no matter how much you've cleaned it, a little once in a while treatment of Wd helps to control it. If I store a bike for a long time in a uncontrolled enviroment I will treat a few areas with WD.

I just skimmed the responses but I never saw anyone mention piston rattle. Kinds of sounds like a ticking lifter just deeper tone. If you have not done the topend for awhile you may want to pull the top end and inspect it. If nothing is wrong rering and go again.

Are you talking about the rubber seal in the cup at the swingarm pivot? If so I have had the right side work out before. The left side won't because the chainslider the right just has a small tab on top to hold it in place unless you have a aftermarket swinger. I think I just pulled it off cleaned everything and put it back together and haven't had a problem since.

scrape those pockets unless you have access to equipment and lots of spare time. I built a set but the parts and steel still cost me half of what I could buy a set for. It was the only way I could get exactly what I wanted and the time was worth the satisfaction. If you pattern a stock set make adjustments to the caster and camber.

Not sure what your looking for but If it is chromoly try Wicks Aircraft Supply. Look them up on the net. They aren't close but you pick it up off your porch. I have used them for a few suspension projects.

A lot of people have taken the tubes for the hush kit and turned them down. I went one step further and trimed the tubes down so they didn't look cheasy with 4" of tube pointed down. You can't make the toomeys legal at the oregon dunes without a hush kit. I have heard rumor that the cascade silencers will quiet them more since they are a larger silencer. Me and my wife were tested at the dunes and my Paul Turners were 97DB and her Toomeys were 107DB, it was a courtesy ckeck otherwise we both would have gotten tickets. Her silencers were due for a repack.

The temp it will run will vary with how hard your riding and how much air you get thru the radiator. If I ride mine hard with the wind a mile thru dune trails on a hot day it will overheat. If I turn it around and ride into the wind it will run real cool 150-160 F. Same conditions and riding the same. The operating temperture is just a function of the amount of air passing thru the radiator.

I run Weiscos, next bore I'll try cast Pro-x pistons. A little theory I was told that pistons don't wear after breakin is completed. Look at your 'worn' piston that is out of round, it still has the machine marks. A piston deforms from slapping the cylinder wall, the more clearance the more accelerated the deformation. New pistons are oval, wider at the piston skirts. A Weisco piston will deform faster because the increased cylinder to piston clearance until the piston reaches operating temperture. A cast piston supposable will last longer due to the tighter cylinder to piston clearence. I was told to replace my piston when it was perfectly round and I should replace the rings once between pistons and would probably need a bore every two pistons. I checked my new Weisco pistons and they are oval, wider at the skirt and the old pistons were smallest at the skirt. As many hours as I put on longevity is more important than a light piston and regular maintenance should prevent any pistion failures. There is to many fast bikes running Pro-x pistons on the track to totally dog them.

Aluminum splines do wear out. I have a LSR sprocket hub the splines worn. Aluminum hubs aren't for longevity there for the extra edge to win races and look cool. Use a good grease on the splines on assembly and keep the axle nut tight to prolong the hub life.