Lepew

There is a blaster website, maybe they have some info you can search for.

I also look for indications of abuse or inexperinenced care like bent steering stem stop, bent frame at the grab bar, and screws messed up from using the wrong size or worn out screwdriver on them. I look for indications the cases have been split, if they appear to have it takes value away for me.

If you contact the sand club they can check it for you , but depending on many conditions the level of sound intensity will change. I never ride on the trails to the beach and avoid populated areas since that is where the sound checks usually take place.

No aftermarket silencers meet the sound requirements you need for the dunes except Toomey's hush kit. A local sand club was given money to purchase a meter since they have events at the Oregon dunes and they told me some come very close to passing but only the Toomey hush kit will pass. I think it was Salems Sand Club. My Paul turners were 97 and my wifes T-5 were 105 when I got caught at a sound check. I feel sorry for the bikes my neighbors yz450f was 99 suposably with the factory silencer for a poker run that had Oregons max Db of 99.

Newer Blaster or a Warrior or a 660 Raptor rear brake caliper fits a Banshee. The small box is the TORS control unit, it is used to kill the ignition if the throttle slides are open when the thumb lever is not pushed. Most people unplug the unit to prevent electrical problems and sometimes remove the other components. The wire going to the thumb throttle and the large bulky aluminum contraptions attached to the carbs are also part of the TORS system.

You will beat up your spindles beating on them to remove the tapered stud if it is tight. A better way to remove them is get a few different lengths of 1/2 bolts and a couple of nuts. Thread the nut on the bolt fit it between the tapered studs in the spindle and back the nut off pressing the tapered stud out. If they are really tight and you feel you might distort the threads on the tapered stud, put force on the stud with the bolt and nut and use a aluminum or brass drift and hammer to tap on the side of the spindle perpindicular to stud. The small impact is usually enough to get it to let go.

They are very differentt in the way they are designed compared to steel welded frames. The front end looks like it would fold up if you hit something. I would let them prove themselves for a year or two.

I torque mine 240 in*lbs. :biggrin:

Ricky stator- good find, if they are the same thread. http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_25 $100 for all four Again if your spindles are reamed you will need the 250r balljoints.

I hears they were from a the little Ford pu before the ranger (courrier? or something like that) I have a set of old Lonestar lowers and a set of newer Lonestars and they look exactly the same except for the ball joints. I think you can get the 250r ball joints for a-arms from Lonestar or some other manufacture that will be better for the application and also fit the reamed spindles. Ball joints from Lonestar are only $125 for all four.

I have one on both mine, never used it yet. It is cheaper than new cases. Just a cosmetic break will reduce the value of the quad. I have seen a lot of broken cases on banshees from the chain, even welded up a couple. I wonder if anyone here broke a chain when running a saver and seen if it really works.

Where is yours bent? I need one that isn't bent from the motor back.

I went with the trail because that is where I ride the most. There still a dream on the trackand I don't feel they are too soft. I had a set of works valved for stock arms on +2 a-arms and never bottomed them out on the dunes jumping, they would roll in the corners.

The old Lonestar ball joints were a automotive ball joints and required the spindle to be reamed, they are a poor design for ATV spindle ball joints. The new lone star ball joints are made for their application from a european company, I forgot the name at the moment. I am not sure if you can find the newer balljoints from a auto store but they are the same as some of the other a-arm manufactures use. I have seen other a-arm manufactures sell them for cheaper.

I agree with the website on the issues that cause that type of scuffing. Was the piston skirt slapping? If you measure the skirt I bet you will find it is deformed. I had scuffs on the middle of the intake side when I purchased the bike then the next set of pistons I replaced had the four corner scuffs. I contributed it to cold seizure on both cases, I think on windy days on the dunes the bike cools too much on breaks between rides and should be warmed up before riding it hard again.

Ask if they are set up for motocross or recreation riding. If they are for motocross they will be stiff for the trails if that is the weight range your looking for. Works valving is the same between the riding styles, they spec the weight different for what your using them for. Cascade stock is probably going to be for trails and dune riding since that is where a majority of their market comes from. Let me know what they want for works shocks, I am going to be in the market for new shocks.

Don't get Thor Quadrants. They are very stiff and thick at the toe which makes it hard to shift.

I think your rep at Toomey is full of shit. Adding compression and advancing the timing will add a noticable gain in power even with T-6 pipes.

Your confused on wind chill factor. Wind chill is the acceleration of a objects temperture to the ambient air temperture.

Purchase your parts new through a reputable buisness that will ship worldwide. Use the HQ to find which buisnesses are good before you buy from them. I have received excellent service from Trinity racing, Duncan racing, and North County Yamaha to name a few. I wish I could ride legally on the streets. That is some interesting porting of the cylinders on the website.

I think your right. I have had my best luck with Fedex for larger packages. I shipped a frame via Fedex considerably cheaper than UPS

Toomey has some issues there. I have a set of T-5's with cracks on the outside side of the tabs on both sides. They have been used with rubber hangers only. I have seen several sets of t-5's older than mine with no problems.

That ball valve contraption could do dual purpose. You could hook that up to a CO2 tank and fill your tires afterwards. No!! Don't !! I am just kidding, you can die doing things like that.

Here is a place to start http://jjandaracing.com/

Is a Uniball a trade name for a ballbushing? Where did the heim joint fail?