Lepew

Sorry, I don't need a set of 28's yet.

What did you come up with? Did you have this problem all of a sudden or did you make some mods and rejet?

Sorry, I am selling it complete. You can find just a manifold only on ebay, there is a couple on there right now.

It came on a spare bike I bought that had T-5's and a K+N, I put dual stock carbs back on it. I was tempted to try it with my Paul Turners so I bought a new boot for it then never tried it.

Starting point? You said you had it running pretty good. Aren't you past the starting point stage?

You will never get dead on, on a dyno. The dyno does not replicate the exact conditions you will ride in. The other problem with dynos is calibration, you might dyno it at shop A and it produces 58 Hp, then you dyno it at shop B and it produces 64 Hp.

Another photo...

Trinity single carb set up w/ adapter for a stock airbox and reed cages with aftermarket reeds. The rubber intake boot is brand new and it includes all the o-rings. The carb is a Keihin PWK 33. $350 shipped in cont. U.S.

If you want a better turning radius slide your weight to the inside, grab some front brake and throttle and hold on you'll turn in your tracks. The yfz front end has bad geometry when put on a Banshee frame. I suggest quality aftermarket arms and aftermarket shocks designed to fit.

The stock screens work very well. Some times the tall tube and screen will fall off, but you can cut off a 1/8" and shove it back in the valve. I just took off a inline fuel filter like you seek, the bike it came from was overheating. I think the cause of the overheating was the two small pebbles plugging the filter making it run lean. When I drained the tank I found the stock tube and screen laying loose in the bottom of the tank. The pebbles would have never plugged the stock screen if it was in place. You can find those clear inline filters at most parts stores in various sizes, they may have to order one if they don't stock it.

Why would you want to put a inline filter on the fuel line? Are you working on a Banshee?

I noticed mine was hard to start after sitting. I had a boat motor that would do the same thing and I was told to remove the fuel line and run the motor until it ran the carb dry of fuel before storeing for even a short time, it fixed the problem and the motor always started in a couple of pulls. I started draining the carb bowls on our banshees when we were finished with them for the weekend and they started up the next trip on the first few kicks. I think some of the fuel evaporates leaving thick oil and fuel in the carb bowl. In the boat motor carb the orfices were so small they easily were plugged until fresh fuel would redissolve the gunk.

The slide is about 28mm so you can only increase the bore size up otherwise air will go around the side of the slide or the slide won't close enough to idle the motor. How about figureing a way to increase the size of the slide bore and boring the carb, I wonder if you could make it a 30mm. The carb might get a little thin but it would weigh less.

When you drill them grind off the jet number, you don't want a jet marked with the wrong size.

What did you change in the rebuild? If it ran fine for awhile before the rebuild at the same jetting you are at now, and you didn't make and mods during the rebuild jetting probably isn't your problem.

They have been running quad flat track races during the kart race days at the indoor track at the fairgrounds. There is a couple of races left this winter then it moves outdoors to Lebanon Speedway. I ran the motocross track and had no idea they were also running flat track quads there. Rumor I heard is flat track tires are required. I am going to have to find some tires now and try it.

I found where I had seen the claim that too rich of jetting will cause overheating, it was in the Jetting FAQ section that use to be posted here at the HQ. Here is a cut and paste from it, Q#2:What happens when my Banshee isn't jetted properly? A#2:If the jetting is slightly lean or rich, the most you'll suffer is a loss of performance. However, if the jetting is way too lean or rich, your Banshee will overheat rapidly resulting in melted or seized pistons (which is the ultimate "bummer" for the 2-stroke motor). While overheating due to a rich condition is not common on Banshees (typically the plug will foul and not fire before it gets too hot), it's still not a good idea to run for extended periods with the jetting too rich. What "specific" damage can occur from this type of over heating? Specific means, if it is piston damage what kind and where on the piston?

What can running to rich do to a motor? I know it makes it run like crap, fouls plugs and causes global warming by releasing unburnt hydrocarbons , but what mechanical problems can it have. I seem to remember someone saying running to rich can make a engine run hot, if this is true, why?

What is Pro-x piston to cylinder clearance?

I agree, the only place you are suppose to put any sealer is the cases. This might not hold true when you are making extreme modifications. If you are trying to repair a problem with sealer on the head or base gaskets you are really putting a bandaid on the real problem.

I'm at sea level with #30 pilot, needle set on the midddle groove and a 320 main. I have a few more mods like porting and pod filters and run in a little warmer tempertures. Get some more opinions but I would start with a #27.5 pilot, needle at the middle groove, and a 290 or 300 main with the default airscrew adjustment. It should run good there, but need some plug checking to get it perfect, if it donsn't run there you probably have issues somewhere else.

Start with the aftermarket shocks if your budget is limited. It smooths out the ride on the dunes and takes the harsh hit out of landings. I don't know why anyone would waste money on the yfz shocks, try riding a yfz on the dunes it isn't much of a smooth ride unless your hitting everything balls out like you were motocrossing. If you get a yfz 450 you will still be in it for shocks also to get a considerable improvements to suspension over a stock shee on the dunes, and would you be willing to cross over to the other side of the four strokes?

If I was given the problem he first stated I could only say f(x) is equal to some positive number. If you gave me what the equation was equal to, I could tell you what x was , by yes, using a log function on both sides and solving for x. It threw me where he dosen't equal the equation to something. Out of habit I tried to equal it to 0 and realized I was going down the wrong path.

Well, what was the answer?

I wouldn't worry about the cases if it is only scratches, not major deformation. Make sure to clean and inspect the cases carefully. Yamabond works great for sealing the cases, make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and oil free. It is hard to keep them oil free if you put oil on everything when you assemble the cases, I don't lubricate anything I don't have to before assemblying the cases.