Lepew

To put a roundhouseing carrier on a stockswingarm and make it look nice you should weld the carrier tube on. It only really looks good if you shorten the swingarm to fit the carrier tube. You could weld some tabs on the the carrrier tube and bolt it to the stock swingarm but it would look cobbled and probably be weak unless you added more iron. Bobman13 is right you can find many good deals on swingarms. I just picked up a like new chrome lonestar +2 for $150 off the internet. Just stay away from the cheap swingers made from mild steel or no gusseting at the shock mount.

A little carbon will cause the wristpin to be tight when you try to pull it out. I encounter this all the time. I keep a threaded rod with some washers and nuts in my toolbox to pull the pins. Use a 1/4 inch threaded rod, a washer with a dia. slighty smaller than the wrist pin bore , large 3/8 drive deep socket that the wrist pin will go inside of, another washer and two nuts. The rod goes thru the wrist pin and put the washer a nut on the end. Slide the socket over the rod against the piston and put the other washer and nut on the end of the rod. Tighten the nut and the wristpin will be pulled out of the piston into the bore of the socket. Pretty much a poormans wrist pin puller.

They should last longer and if their claim of 5x's the life is correct, if you wear out wheel bearings a lot it would pay back pretty quick. If you notice it includes spacers for the caliper, I wonder how far the kit moves the hub out on the spindle. I assume since the stock spindle castle nut would not provide a fine adjustment you preload the bearings to take out play, the tapered roller bearings should more than handle the preload too.

For the intake use a peice of round steel rod the right dia to fit in the carb boots and cut a couple of 3/4 slices off it. Drill thru and tap one to accept a barb fitting. The exhaust I use two expanding rubber plugs from the local hardware store.

There is a internal clutch pushrod adjuster located on the face of the clutch pressure plate. Look at the clutch arm where the cable attaches, it has a arrow on the end. When you push the clutch arm towards the right side of the bike with your finger you take the freeplay out of the pushrod. The arrow on the end of the clutch lever should line up with a arrow on the case. If it does not you need to pull the clutch cover and adjust the push rod adjuster screw. Do a search on here for photos and more info.

My garage is kind of dark. I am pretty sure it is mine. In the ad it looks like it has a coat of rattle chrome on it. The sproket carrier came loose and rubbed the swingarm. From the back it appears it got twisted. I use to make them for $125 when I could get free swingarms. Used a template to cut them and a jig to weld 'em. Most I never put the chain guide bracket back on. Market fell out of minus swingers with the introduction of the YFZ. Irritates me Ebay sellers with a line of crap, kind of like a car salesman.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...tem120216104591 I don't think he knows where it was made. I think he is full of bull. He states the swingarm was milled, I used a torch and ground it to fit just like the one below. I sent a few to the south, this must be one floating up onto ebay.

Is your mangled piece of metal look like part of a snap-ring? Check to make sure the snap-ring for the kickstarter idler gear is still there and the end of the transmission shaft is not chipped off. I have seen banshees loose the snap-ring there and go thru the main gears. Also check the clutch basket nut lock washer. I have also seen the clutch basket nut lock washer break and small chunks of it come thru the clutch.

I use a puller with long metric bolts to split the cases. If you have to remove and replace the crank you need to make or get the right tools. Only pull like you are shown in the manual, blaster cases are easy to tweek.

The older ones you just use high temp silicone. I even use high temp silicone on pipes with a o-ring, makes a solid seal.

I think that means, to aquaint with the practical applications of scentific and mathamatical principles. In english, more math and less trial and error?

On ebay now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Tri...sspagenameZWDVW

Still for sale.

smaller bearing for the same amount of load and less lubricated also.

You said it has a rattle at idle, so my guess is you have some pistons that need to be replaced. Test the crank seals and if there ok, pull the top end and inspect it. If the is excessive clearence between the piston and cylinder that is probably your noise. While you have the top end off you can check the rod bearings similar to how the clymers manual suggests. If the rod bearings are ok and the crank seals tested ok, the crank is good to go, no need to split the cases. If you knew how much time was on the crank seals you could maybe skip that step. Remember you need to KNOW what is wrong before you start replacing parts.

If you want a reverse thread tap just turn the one you got counterclockwise, :smile: If you want a left hand tap anyplace mentioned above, and MSC too.

Wait let me revise that slightly' The ball joints that were originally used that required reaming were for a tierod applications, there is flaws in that design if they are used for a spindle type application. The new ball joints quality a-arm manufactures are using are made by FRAP. They were probably intended for the automotive industry, I bet you will find it was for a spindle type application. I can't read Italian otherwise I could tell you I don't think Fireheads comments were a argument heims vs. balljoints, I think it was a heims vs. tierod end balljoints, am I right?

The ball joints are made by FRAP. They were probably intended for the automotive industry, I bet you will find it was for a spindle type application. I can't read Italian otherwise i could tell you.

I used YFZ ball joints for my a-arms. The tapered stud is longer so you can't pinch a hole in the rubber boot with the spindle if you use the ball joint travel to the limit. If you have a set of Wickeds you might have experience this.

I bought a set and then purchased new works shocks for them and had a similar problem. The geometry on the ball joints was wrong, I had to compress the shock to put the lower shock bolt in. I talked to the guy at Wicked a couple of times to solve it and and he thought I was screwed up. He wouldn't let me return them. Lonestar uses the same ball joints but puts them at a better angle. I sold them and bought a set of a-arms from another manufacture and they were poorly made so I returned them and built my own a-arms. There was a recent post in the suspension forums on with some members talking about Wicked arms and they mentioned some problems withthe tie rods. My opinion is don't waste your time with Wicked Products they didn't stand behind their product for me.

You can purchase aftermarket ball joints for about $25 each that will fit you a-arms and not require you to ruin a good set of spindles. I think Lonestar sells them, checkout their website and call them to make sure. They were not always available. YFZ spindles are different they may work but probably not right.

Buy a coupler and a extra hose for more reach so you can push against the ground. If you had a pistol grip and had to use it a lot your sex life would suffer.

Either left or right will work just make sure it is touching the cylinder wall when you crank it. When it is milled the machinist removes metal where it contacts the head, this causes the combustion chamber to sit lower the same amount the machinist removed from the surface of the head. Your squish clearance will be smaller by the same amount of material the machinist removed. For example if you squish clearance is .050" now then you have the head milled .010" you new squish clearance will be .040". This is in theory since you don't know if someone had cheap base or head gaskets that were not the right thickness in the motor to start so you must check your squish clearance again when you assemble the top end to know for sure it is not to small.

Lincoln brand performs very well. I perfered the standard handle not the pussy pistol grip. You can't put enough pressure on the grease with a pistol grip unless you work out your grip jacking off all the time. Alimite (spelling?) makes top notch accesories and tips. I use to wear out tips regularly, so I got a chance to try many brands.

I heard the term squish came from the design in a head where there was minimal clearence between the piston and head. The piston on the compression stroke would "squish" the air from this area towards the opposite side of the combustion chamber near the valves and spark plug creating turbulence that would prevent detonation. It is very noticable if you look at a head on a common v-8. On a Banshee I don't know if the theory still holds but I know that squish clearance or clearance between the piston and head is critical. The rod will stretch at high RPM's and if there is not enough clearance than the piston will tap the head. The solder trick works very well to check squish. I always ckeck the squish when after assembling the top end. Shaving the head is just removing metal with a lathe or mill on the bottom to increase the compression, it will reduce you squish.