Lepew

I let the washing machine do the work then let it air dry. I just add it with a few peices of laundry on a light cycle. Never tore one up yet.

I let the washing machine do the work then let it air dry. I just add it with a few peices of laundry on a light cycle. Never tore one up yet.

You want to buy the proper tapered reamer. You can find them at places that sell machine tools. I don't know the exact size. You must be installing a older set of A-arms? You might look into how much newer ball joints that fit without reaming would cost verses buying a reamer.

I have seen the impeller blades warp out just like your photo on my bike. They caused the outside of the impeller to rub the water pump cover plate. It didn't cause a failure but I replaced it with another stocker.

I used a modquad plastic one and my wife has a Modquad aluminum one. They only fit a 14 tooth sprocket or smaller. I switched to a 15 tooth and the TM fit without any trimming. If I went bach to a 14 I would switch back to the Modquad.

I have never noticed any pull from my paddles not being alined. Wheelies, dragging or harder sand. Think about it for a second if your paddles are not lined up which paddle tire digs first? If the right digs first will the bike pull to the left til you stop and the start with the left paddle digging first then you bike will pull to the right til you stop and roll the tire so the bike starts with the right digging first. The paddles have the same amount of pull given all other variables are the same such as tire pressure terrain and of course wind direction I aline mine so my rear end hops instead of waddles out the parking lot.

From some info I was fed, on the older aftermarket a-arms ball joints were limited to what was available which would fit a Honda spindle but not a Yamaha. Hondas taper is the same as Yamahas just bigger. You would just run a taperered reamer into the yamaha spindle til it was big enough to fit the ball joint stud. With the new ball joints out there available you no longer need to modify your spindles to fit aftermarket ball joints. There is more to ball joints that I do know if you are in the market for a-arms that I would share. If anyone wants to correct my info feel free I wasn't in the atv world during the reaming days.

looks like your uppers are on the wrong side or upside down. the top ball joint should be above the lower one. I would guess the large bend in the upper arm goes to the back to allow clearence for the shock.

If I remember right the "rings" are spacers to adjust how much travel the lighter spring compresses before tranfering the load to the heavier spring. They will freely move on the shock body.

Don't waste the coin. Buy some quality product. Bought some and the ball joints bottomed out pinching the ball joint boots when they were adjusted properly. The owner said I must have the adjusted or installed wrong. If you look at the a-arms I built for my quad you would see I knew how to build, install and adjust them. Wicked is using the same ball joints as Lonestar but the stud isn't long enough. You'll get what you pay for.

Here is some ideas. no need for a jig just need spacers to fit a tube snuggly in the swingarm front tube. Cut out the gussets behind the shock cross tube and remove the chain guide bracket. make a template so you can scribe a line where to cut out on both sides evenly. torch off the extra and grind to your line. Put a tube thru the front pivot and asssemble the rear axle in the carrier. Set everything on a level bench and block up the ends of the tube and axle evenly. The face of the sprocket hub where the sprocket bolts to, to the side of the swingarm will be 0.608" . measure from the axle ends, to the tube and adjust evenly. double check your measurements and tack it together. take the carrier out and weld everything together. After it cools you may not be able to get the carrier back in from warpage so heat the top and bottom of where the swingarm welds to the carrier tube about 3/4" to warp the tube round again. weld a brake bracket peg .500" long and .595" round 2 29/32" from the carrier tube center. paint and ride. This should help at least.

I use stock ones on my lone star axle. Once in a while the hubs loosen and I have to break the axle lock nuts loose then tighten them more. I found the aluminium axle locknut will wear from the sprocket hub working on it causing reajustment more often. A friend suggested putting a stock steel axle nut on first then the aluminum axle locknut. Then back the stock nut off, kind of like how yamaha suggests to tighten your axle nuts. I would have tried this but I don't have problems with the stock nuts. A few suggestions: Check to make sure your axle threads or nuts are not worn. Clean and degrease the nuts and axle threads and use a good medium strength locktight when you tighten them as Yamaha suggests.

If you going for a MX quad you don't have to spend another $750 for axle and a-arms and you already have the right size tires to tear up at practice. It might be a bomb when it finally gets here but you have to give suzuki credit for trying to build a better race quad. Yamaha and Honda will have to work a little harder now.

The new Suzuki looks pretty impressive. Look at these side by side specs. with the Honda and Yamaha. http://www.atvriders.com/atvnews/2006_trx4...r450_specs.html 49" wide already and only a few hundred more. If it has some competitive power in the motor, it will be the most race ready quad out of the box. Local dealer said it would be Jan. or Feb. before they get one. I will look forward to taking a closer look.

I want to make a swingarm to accept the new Yamaha carrier so I need to know what the demensions are on a stock swingarm. If the world was perfect it would be the same as hondas and I could use my current carrier tubes.

Anybody know what Yamaha's roundhousing tube I.D. and width is yet? I have'nt had a chance at one apart yet and my curiosity is driving me nuts.

I'm not to sure about that. I was told you want them soft but the spacers set so the almost bottom on the biggest jumps you'll do on the track. Call Works see what they have to say and fill us in. I got the best deal at SMI motorsports when I was shopping but that was a couple of years ago.

The pictures didn't work for me but a macine shop should be able to make if for you reasonably or maybe someone here on the hq that has access to a lathe.

Well If adding freon fixed it than I was wrong. Your HVAC must be a fixed orfice system so the amount a freon dictates the evaporator temp.

I've only work with automotive A/C systems but they work on the same principle as your home. Your system is working great but too great and it is freezing the evaporator. The system should have a way to regulate the evaporator temperture so it will be as close to freezing without freezing to cool the air passing thru it. In the automotive world it is usually controlled by a pressure switch or a thermal switch. Look in that direction and you'll might find the problem. Your system is probably fine on the freon level or it would never get cold. Good luck!

You can't bore stock carbs out to 28mm the slide isn't that wide. Some bore them to about 27mm then taper them out to 28mm. If you don't offset the new bore up then the slide won't close enough to idle down. Not much a benefit. Run the stockers til you can buy bigger.

got'er fixed !!! check out this pimp'in swinger

The top of the HQ forums says the last post was at 10:05 and the three posts that were just made from me were well after that. What is up with that? I think someone is trying to mess with a joker!!

Sorry guys I never ever even pushed the post the topic button let alone three times. My photos wouldn't upload so I will send them to who are interested.