Lepew

Tolulene is better sniffed than burned. If you increase the octane that just makes the fuel more stable so you can increase comp. right?

I have a similar method. I have tried the plug chop after seeing it here. I don't think it really is the best way for ME to jet. I am most comfortable running a used plug for a time at a throttle setting and checking the color. You can run a dark brown plug at a to lean pilot setting (1/4- throttle) and get it to turn bright white. I look for the tan color at the electrode end of the insulator. Just check it like a plug chop on the pilot, needle and main and look for the tan insulator. The longer you can constantly run the throttle at each setting will give you a accurate indicator. Good luck on the main I have a hard time overcoming the rush from 6th pinned out.

You better have at least a 1/2 black woohoo to be certified with your avatar or your soon to be brand. I think it is funny that a holstein that meets grade could be certified angus.

Careful on having your carbs bored. I bought a bike with almost 28mm bored carbs, they were junk. You can't bore them bigger than the slide and you have to offset the new bore to the top or the slide won't close all the way. Save your money for bigger carbs.

I balanced price with quality. I shopped at all the local dealers before I bought. Boots and helmets need to be tried before you buy. I ended up with Thor boots but they're a little tall in the toe (hard to get under the shifter). Angus, you must be a cattle man. Not to stir to much, I have to give it to the angus breeders for such good marketing but have you researched what it takes for a steer to be "certified angus beef"? Most important it has to meet a grade standard, but it only has to be half black !!!

No, no tabs for a skid plate. Not all skid plates will fit a -swingarm. It would be best for the mounts to be added to fit the paticular skidplate you want to use.

Sorry, just a swingarm.

When your testing the shifting before putting the cases back together I have noticed it won't shift right if there isn't a load on the sprocket shaft. Hold the output shaft as you spin the clutch it will prabablt shift better. Even a stock star won't shift very well without a load on the output shaft. I once had a stock modified star that would hang up between gears if you didn't wail on the shifter. It had flat spots on the grinded peaks. I went back to a stock star and have missed gears a lot less.

I don't know exactly what you mean. You have to start with a stock a-arm to figure where everything is at. I place a stock arm in the jig to start then move and add the fixtures. Sorry Guys, It is fun but there wouldn't be enough money to be made to make a set of quality arms. My wife would probably run me over with her bike if I tried.

I have around $200 in parts and materials. I have to give a thanks to Gary at Quicksand for sharing the info on where to get 4130 "chromoly" cheap. I used a Yamaha raptor or yfz450 ball joint because they are cheap, replaceable and greased and the most important thing is the tapered stud is longer to allow more clearence for the boot. They truely cost me around $2000 if I add the miller Tig welder. The geometrery is easy, the magic number is 20 degrees. place your ball joints 20 degrees on the end of the arm. I moved the shock mount out 5/8" to compensate for the longer arms adding to the ride height.

-1 5/8" Yamaha swingarm for a roundhousing carrier. Bare ready for chrome, powder coat or chrome. $100 and shipping.

There +2 +1 with Yamaha Yfz ball joints. Built all the parts myself with a Logan 10x25 lathe and a handy tubing bender minus the ball joints. The only problem I had with the fit is I could have moved the lower arm rear tube a 1/4" further foward, 6" rims will be real close to touching the lower arm in the back. Hope this helps any of you who may want to attempt this.

Have half my a-arms built and they fit almost perfect. I will try to post some pictures soon. Figured I would brag when I seen this new forum. I will be glad when I am finished. If I knew what it would take to build some, I would have bought the Roll Design.

Boy!! vent on someone else. I like a few brews around a campfire. I forget about all the people that drink and ride. You can get a motel for $40 a night. I just rented one by the Coos bay bridge that over looks boxcar for that. You shound know the trailer parking, it is visible from the highway as you drive by.

It costs $9 just to make the reservation for your spot not to mention the $10 a night and two day weekend min. plus each vehicle must have a offroad pass. You can get a hotel room one night for that and drink all you want.

Like everyone says "Wear them". Walk the track before a practice or race with them. They protect the ankle so they will be stiff there. You will get what you pay for but I like to balance cost with use. The Thor boots I have are taller than most at the toes so I had to raise my shifter one notch to shift. You will have to learn to shift with your leg and might have to sit more to the front. I still fight them in drag races, I some how can't hit fifth every time like a pair of sneakers.

First try to "anneal" the extractor with a torch. Just get it cherry red and let it cool slowly. Also heat the bolt and frame around it. As every thing cools it may break loose what is holding the bolt in the first place. Then the next step if you can weld thru a nut to the bolt and extractor you can hopefully back out one or both. You anneal the extractor so the weld will hold soundly to it. If your patient then spry a little penetrating lube on the bolt,extractor and nut and give it time to work. Maybe even tap lighly on the nut to help break the bolt loose and help the lube get into the threads. Goodluck

I take that back. That set is adjustable. Well worth what there going for.

The guy that builds them is out of buisness. I bought a set then brought them back before I even put them on because he screwed up in several different ways. I seen the set your interested in. The best thing about them is the ball joints are Yamaha YFZ stock lower or upper, so replacements are cheap available and proven. The bad part about the set of arms is they are not adjustable and I would bet they will need to be. It would be money well spent to have someone modify the uppers to be adjustable. They will hold up well on a MX track.

Drag frame blueprints? no such thing. They are all in the imagination of the builder. Start with a power plant then build the coolest trick stuff you can think of to make it work and look trick around it. Oh yeah don't forget to look around and steal a few ideas. Its OK only if you don't steal them all from one bike.

Kind of like I did. Those are the same wires at the TORS connection.

I cut the wires off the TORS box since I eliminated it and wired it there, of the three wires one is the ground and one is the same wire that kills the bike if you ground it. Now if I have a problem with the kill switch I can unplug it. Look in the Clymer manual for the right wire colors. I think they were black (grnd) and black w/ white stripe (ign kill).

Pm me with your email and I'll email the photo. I will take $375 for it.

Some good fab skills is all you need to build a good set. They might not be race proven but how many of us are Kory Ellis. The mig tig thing, my opinion Mig works fine til you get to the thin wall tubings then you will start to get undercuting or cold lapping. Where the line is drawn between choosing one or the other is dependent on the experience of the welder and the project.