camatv

too bad it dosent stay that way like chrome.. looks great tho!

the trans version i have is not just cut gears, its a total "tuned" package.. the one i offer is also the same if not less in price than most charge for just cutting the dogs. i don't do just dog cuts either. i only sell this as a package i feel it only works in the way i have figured out. ( which took a year of research) in dirt with a lil tire slip it will shift every time and i mean if you miss a gear its going to possibly happen once in a day.. on sand with heavy hook high HP and a strong clutch with wimpy cable it may not shift 100% at high rpm's BUT its no override.. its designed for "rider bikes" proper maintenance and it will last for a very long time. i currently have these in all my "rider bikes" unless they have an override. ( i am currently working on a few override versions but its taking time because of the pickyyness of what i am trying to accomplish.) i also heavily suggest this in ANY motor that gets split. it has had great reviews and no~one has stated to me yet that they wish they didnt do it.. if you want more info please PM me.

sell it buy my outlaw put the desert skids back on and the desert tank i have for it and put on one more set of hid's pinnit and pray

i found that long thread from tss to be very informative. and even more interesting things about the particular cylinder used in the "original thread" wow i think i know now what was causing my case studs to break so badly.. hmmm to me and yes i am a uninformed person as to these motors. the current 2 stroke snomobile engines are displaying amazing qualities. and to me should be looked at for more modern release of maybe a smaller cc 2 stroke twin in an atv again. what a dream..

i stoped reading this thread after reading this. i totally agree is there a thread that could be setup like this? even a "what kinda crank is this?? i personally have a small pile of stock and hotrods cranks out there i can take reference pictures of. also have a few jacked up OEM rods AND OEM webbs i could "donate" to metalurgy requests..

ok so i'm new to track racing and have been running the local track that just opened here in eldorado. i'm actually have quite a bit of fun. my 60's have went from 2.0 to a best of about a 1.500 this was about the same 60 a super light bike with a bar adn lil rider was getting.. the MPH at this particular track has always been low ( at least to me) i'm tuning 4.4 to 4.3's at around 69-72mph.. i dont really know what else to base that off of . the track owners are running 4.2 and about 72 to 74 mph and hitting 1.5 to 1.7 60's.. the track is a dirt sand mix and they take great care of it. all i have ever really changed so far was the tire first TNT there it hooked so hard i had issues with the 14's so went to a 12 hauler much better adn mph got to a best of 72mph. 60's wenrt bad either.. next TNT track was dry and we were running straight into a 15-20mph wind i was able to go back to the 14 stagger's and times were nearly identical. i have a +10 arm i can put on and build a wheelie bar. BUT i like running the bike like this because the bar never catches any ruts or tossed the bike side to side. its amazing to me how much th etimes can vary from pass to pass and not change anything. i read that 60ft times sucks thread down there and this came to mind felt i should start a new thread with my personal experiences. this track is exactilly an hour from my house and its much more fun for me to go to instead of the local riding place..

lower center of gravity means more control around curves... when you jump and i mean pretty big ones they will extend to full travel in the air and when you land you have that much more to soak up the load and if you screw up it saves your ass quite considerably. i personally hatted the ZPS style on a rider bike with the stock or +2 banshee suspension. to ME ( YES THIS IS MY OPINION SO FUCK OFF) there is just not enough travel in them to really work well in whoops and "trail " riding. to get them soft enough in the trals usually meant the good posibility of bottoming out.. now saying that i havent rode on a brand new absolutely state of the art 2012 released bla bla bla shock that cost 3000 each.. i have rode on both zps and standard dual rate or triple rate gasser works. and personally prefer'd the std gasser style of shock. BUT for example my outlaw which has whats called limited mass? ( i'm guessing zero preload) is a million times better in the trails with this style of shock of course my ride height is nearly the same as an oem banshee but on a jump the front and rear extend out about 6" more. also when it wheelies the fronts drop down. again this is all my opinion coming from someone who has had both styles of shocks on multiple setups and raced both styles of shocks at one time many many moons ago.

depends.

good luck. youd be better off buying a wompus.... or a cheeta

ok so the wife and i are heading out to visit my mom and will be about 2-3 hours from glamis area. i'd really like to go out and see the place and at least check it out some. i've never been out there and we are flying out. if someone could help me out with either a rental or a "guide" i'd be really appreciatiave.. $$$$$? looks like we will be out that way on monday the 11th of june i think?? any help or tips is also nice too. worst case we will rent a car and at least drive out there and look around..

Taiwan products is far more superior to Chinese products... Taiwan = Republic of China... But for years Taiwan has delivered products that has proved they are worth it... There are companies in Taiwan with excellent quality control and standard... There is nothing wrong with a product which are designs and build for a specific purpose, never mind where its build... I have to agree, the guys complaining about the junk they bought which has failed in their motors are to blame... I try and fit top quality parts in my motors... People want to fit cheap stuff should expect less, they should also not complain when some of these parts doesn't even last half the time then proven parts or fail and destroys a $$$$ motor... these are basically my points exactingly. i haven't check'd on this thread in a while. i also do the look at product source as well when i shop. what really gets me the most is the better quality parts that are available that WE use as banshee owners are about the SAME price if not a tad less at times or possibly a tad more. not even enough to make a real difference. but they dont even get mentioned.. ?? i'd feel really sorry for anyone trying to "hop up" a Chinese built atv instead of a JAPANESE or AUSTRIAN built atv.... i NEVER once said i'd rather ride an american built atv. OR purchase merricahan or unions suck cock or americans are getting the shaft. to me polaris sucks cock. just look at the RZR and i mean quality of build. not what its built for. and thats an american atv. with an "imported" motor.... i think they are made out of paper plates and string. if you buy junk ass shit dont come on here and complain after it gets broken after a few rides if it even lasts that long.. if you have a product fail thats great to let us know!!!! but trying to put the blame on someone else is just getting old. i'd say most of the time if it is not installer error, or user error its just plain and simply a shit ass part.. please just demand a better product when you buy and please stop wasting your hard earned union/non union earned money on this shit.

all i'm going to say. if your crank breaks after 4 rides. i'm sorry.. if your filters dont say K+N on the back and they rip or the cheap ass clamps come apart and break.. i'm sorry.. if your 2 piece intake leaks in the middle or dosent fit for crap i'm sorry.. i cannot wait to hear about the billet baskets i have seen get released from the same supplier ohhh boy!!

thats what i said. yea any crank will fail. but if its a shitty material crank sold as top notch fuck that. if you have to use sub par parts when a known other crankshaft manu that actually has a COMPANY in the america's ( i dont care where its built) is only a few bucks more what the hell. a hotrods crank wouldnt have made the price 300 bucks more. maybe only 75 bucks more. id guess. thats the part i just dont get i'm lost.. why post this shit up 2 times and then have one heading as a "hot rods junk??"

that looks like the thick rod that the black webbed "import" cranks used to have. the few that i have used and the one i got from m+m in one of their cub kits" was like that. i have not had any issues with those particular cranks but have not used or installed one onf the "knock off" OEM rod cranks that ALL these pistures in this thread seem to have tossed out of the motor in.. i personally have a 350cc motor it has a crank works preped hot rods crank in it. that crank is over 8 years old as of now and i beat the crap out of that motor. polished rods/ shot peened rods takes the "stress risers" out of the metal even microscopic cracks in the steel can be a spot for a crack to start to form. hot rods rods from way back if i rember right were all polished along the length of the rod i havent seen that in the last few years.. wisco has had some major issues with some of their cranks for other models since they have been "out sourcing" the supply to another country.

ok then i read about half of this and here is a wake up call to the shops selling this crank.. if you have these i dont care if you assemble them in a ISO room and wear a radiation suit to do it in a total clean room ......... THESE ARE TRASH ......... it seems since those chinese assholes went even farther to try adn "copy" OEM rods to include the numbers on them and took the thicker sections out, and now they are snapping like flies.. you better junk the remainding stock you have, send them back, try to get a refund, offer a RECAL something!! but now at this point if these are sold with a HIGH HP or HIGH DOLLAR build your being cheap or not doing what i would expect from a high quality shop.. what happens inside a 2 stroke motor as its running and proiducing more than 35hp requires a HIGH quality ROD and an even higher quality big end bearing.. when i talked to denny ( the supplier for these cranks) about the "new rods" and he said the bearings are just painted silver to be more of what people are asking for i said thats it i'm not using these anymore. any decent builder half his worth understands what the bearings need to be built out of to stand up. and what the rods need to be able to handle as far as stresses. i had a WSM crank come through here adn its hard to describe but the rods felt thin as all hell adn just looked "cheap" they might be fine in a totally stock rebuild in a stocker motor hell i dont know. but they wont end up in ANY of my motors at all ever. i dont care if my "quote" is 75 bucks more because i quoted a hotrods crank and the customer goes somewhere else sorry. i just wont build junk.. here's the low down if you HAVE one of these cranks SELL IT send it back demand a better quality part etc.. if your going to build a 4 mill please use a hot rods crank OR a wiseco IF you use a wiseco make absolutely sure its within specs before you install it. if its out DEMAND another crank from whoeever you got it from we as consumers and as suppliers have a responsibility to ourselves and our customers to give the best quality that we can regardless of cost, or availability. if we dont want china to keep sending this crap over here we all need to stop using it and stop supporting them or DEMAND a better quality product or some sort of supplier guarantee or lifetime warranty including related parts and supplies... this is my opinion. take it as you want

he probably meant 14mph.

umm whats so bad about vp 110 and methanol out of a big black drum?? what i did when i had pump gas motors was mix one gallon of methanol with 4 gallons of pump gas. it would help out some on the really hot days to kinda tame the deto down if it was creeping its ugly head. but had to jet for it. ( easy with a lectron) other than that not sure the whole reason for this post...

with those amazingly bad ass rear tires you have there i'd say you';d hit craigslist 100mph+ in no time.. i also vote to reset the count to 1 again..

that "express" sounds like a good idear.

yup seen 2 bikes flip over.. even if you dont have an all out drag bike and are bored with "trail riding" please come out and support this place. i'm no expert on track racing either. but it was fun to just try to cut a good light and get a better time out of the bike with simple changes.. there was a bunch of general atv's there racing. couple 700 rappy's couple 450's and a couple stockerish banshee's

hmm put in engine size calculater in google. simple as that. nice chart tho! now i know what size those big ass bikes are that im racing these days

quit thinking about it and go do it already sheesh!!!

hmm think i might try some of that flex drive..

i trash atf in a few hours at the dunes.. i MUCH rather have castrol 4T 10-40 or 20-50 OR run hondaline engine oil for wet clutch. the other oils last 2 times as long and i can usually tell if a trans was ran on atf. they are usually a lil more "burned up"

10's make wayy more tq. if your a couch rider its a lot mroe fun of a motor. if your a nutty rider its a motor that can make you dead.. either way fun times await!!