camatv

the mattoon is the only one i have had decent luck with on a 4 bolt basket. the hinson and most other std style baskets are realy only good for about 75hp. anything more or even just a lot of clutch bashing ( drag racing) will cause the warped backing plate. stock oem backing plates are very very hard. i used to drill them out and re grind them then use larger bolts in existing baskets. THEN i got a matton basket and asked if i could get just the bolts cusions and a backing plate theirs is very thick and cromoly. now after my suggestion they offer the backing plate set in a "kit" you can use them on any existing basket, after drilling and taping for the bigger bolts. OR if you need just buy the mattoon anodized basket from the get go.

if it has never been replaced the shift shaft and adjustment pin needs replaced. most times when what your describing happens the shift shaft end turns sideways and jams in the end oif the star it will have either 2 gears only and the shaft will stick all the way up or all the way down. it happens a lot on worn shafts . check the edges of the pins on the shift star if they are really worn down it might need one of those also. its had to tell in the pics you posted but the shift forks seem ok. look for major burning or worn section on the engagement ears. also check all the gears on the shafts and make sure the ones that spin spin well and no signs of burnt gears or messed up teeth. in the manual it also shows how to look for the edges blown off the dogs that can make them slip. since you have it all out you might as well just do a stock modified transmission. pm me if your interested. also the bottom end dosent look all that dirty in the pics so looks to have had at least decent maintenance through its life..

i havent really gotten everything back out and worked on it much lately. i did try the small mig wire as filler and the tiny tungsten that worked great really.. a stamp would be bad ass to have...

DAMN need to get them baby's tucked in some son!! the program should have given a specific stinger size and length.. if a motor is this value and a pipe is designed from those values, the resulting pipe dimensions should end up the same no matter who designed the pipe. i mean math is math.. but thats a really abrupt change in the first diffuser from the main header section.. makes them have a pretty particular shape for sure.. that black bike up a few pages is freaking beeeautiful.. those pipes took a long time to build and design they had to cost a shit ton trinity inframe pipes are some of my fav pipes for a 4 mill stock cylinder.... and stainless never looks bad ( unless you treat it really bad) on the welding,, aht i found: the best thing would be a very good quality TIG or a very small gas torch. i was thinking of trying a 00 or 000 tip. but heat control is really critical. a TIG with very small wire seems to work the best.. when i dig all this stuff out again in a few months i'm going to run a .20 tungsten and use .20 mig wire for filler. see how that goes.

ok i stopped reading about 10 posts ago, in all actuality ( and i'm sure dennis asked this) you need to know if they are 44mm straight bore or a 41.5/44 or 42/44 or hv high velocity type lectrons.. if you are sending them to him i would just ask to have the sizes of the pj's checked and verified.. and you will probably NOT need 2 pj's even on alky. ( because its a cheetah) a single should be fine. i would check needle and seat size, actual bore size, and main needle set. i bet you end up with a 3-1 to a 5-2 needle. being canada its pretty cold i'm guessing.. 44 on gas will be fine, especially if they are the HV style if it bogs its a tune/ port issue. i'm guessing in the pic in your avi that it has block off's i'd HIGHLY suggest getting the valves for it and pray that the k+t porting is not to agressive for the valves to work right... with the valves in it it will have monster bottom end even with the "too big " carbs.. cheeta's are not a cub they run differently with larger carbs due to the increased intake size/ velocity.. as stated they are not nearly as prone to sucking the bowls dry or needing to be flooded with fuel to not detonate ( as long as the dome size is right) UPP has intakes for them on a side not i'm hoping you are setting up the clutch right and doing something with the transmission. and thats a beast of a motor your building. i really hope it isnt using a budget junky ass crankshaft... and that the top case is done right for proper base gasket sealing... build it right the first time you will be happy with it. cut corners and you will hate it. of course this is just my opinion... based on years of dealing with a 535 and lectrons..

hmm i think first i would go to a reasonable oil mix ratio. THEN do some jetting work.

its more of a geo thing instead of a low gravity thing.. the power wants to do things to the frame and the mounts, angle of the arm, and front end height all play a part.. i read a lot on how its controlled on drag cars and that really brought things to light that i had never thought of. BUT an adjustable strut is a good way to go.

very true... the set of stockers i welded up i tested some "thoughts" on. i felt they worked really good.

might have been something soo OOPS kinda thing that this person didnt want to say.....

since they are busy.. check plug caps resistance. unscrew them off the end of the wires, test for ohm reading if it is over 5k its TOO much. if you have oem caps just get a set of ngks already.. check the stator pickup gap also you want factory spec and check it at BOTH pickups on the flywheel. i usually just use a business card. i thin its 22 to 25 tho if i rember right also check your plug gap and also your grounds.. if the above dosent help. try that first.

try to CALL sudco..

its about an hour from me in salina. i'll have to ask him if he still has it. last i heard he did.. with a 4 over it was nearly unrideable. wheelied like crazy.. they made a tank up front for it and used out frame drag pipes. the first motor hardly ran. then i got to play with it. hee he

them 2 other dudes are watching you pee...

welll i have only used that method ( paper clip) one time... since i do not have a dyno, i cannot take a cylinder on and off 40-50 times trying teeny tiny measure'd changes untill i find what works or find what works then make it not work then to know what does.. nowhatImean? only thing i have is books and tools... then trial and error on real running motors in real situations.. it amazed me what changing angles/ heights on transfer's affected power rpm range.. wayyy back when i was a young jedi

if tyler is selling it install motor and ride thats a buy right thar.

i quit reading after this post. you obviously have it all figured out.. i have one i'd sell in a roller for $3500 with custom fit lrd pipes. needs radiator fitted. and is setup for fulbore plastics another 700 i'll finish the radiator 3500 more i will fit and finish the build and strip powdercoat it any color you want i would install a 350cc stocker motor turn key.. hows that for a price? and yes i'm serious

yeap.. google gets you a lot too you have to dig sometimes.. but also a bunch of crap..

thanks!! i really try to get the best package i can out there.

the few times i have made some big changes i have actually just used the porting tool angles and based my flows from that. any major measuring i have had to do was done the same way.. with paper clip and measure from there.. just need to know where to point the charge and how its going to swirl through to the head design.

the forged "better" 10mill crank tdr sells is the one i have been running for years. its a beast.. DONT skimp on a 10 mill. those cheaper cranks are for price point ONLY not quality hard for a shop to compete with a cheap ass price from using sub par parts and "kits" for dirt cheap.. BUT i have seen a bunch of billets snap in half also. my preference is the forged/ hot rods rods setup. built well and trued well it will run a long time.. ( as long as your tune is good) i would even just buy an older 10 mill and rebuild it before one of those cheapo cranks.... just my opinion based on my personal experience

its an import china rod.. junk. BUT there is a chance the motor was not setup right at all and some other issue caused the fail. imean looking at the damage maybe somehow it started and the head clearance was WAY off.. and snap crackle pop bye bye motor if it was me trash all of the borken stuiff and just start completely over.. OR just part the whole thing out. i wouldnt try and salvage any of the broken screwed up parts.

i just know how easy it is to get discouraged. even if you destroy 3 sets of pipes and waste whatever amount of time. there is the satisfaction of trying. which is more than all the haters have done.......

whats even better is MOST other 2 stroke threads outside this racing "scene" is much more open to the idear. i particularly liked this thread... http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?88171-Two-Stroke-Expansion-Chambers

its fun and very aggravating at the same time. the biggest problems i encounter'd is no~one will help you out really and EVERYONE will say your stupid to even try. as if every person that builds pipes was born with the knowledge.... wtf ever i actually have 12 sets of 3-4 designs plas'd out in a box. just no time or real motivation to get them done. the cr pipe that the program you used ( i'm thinking is the same as the one i am using) actually worked much better than the "pro built pipe" i took off.. i would like to build 3 more with different rpm, hp goals. i want to build a long cone for setting up the pieces to be welded. there are a few videos online you can find that show the assembly process in a real fab/ pipe shop. one that still uses hand coned sections. its pretty neat process to watch assembly line style.. the most interesting thing that i found doing research was even blair when HE was building pipes tweaked on them here and there to get them to work so even his math was off to an extent. now with computers and real time pipe estimates, real dynamics built in and pipe temp expectancy's i think things are a little better. BUT its going to be VERY hard, next to impossible to beat the best drag pipes out there right now. as most have a lot of long hours on a dyno to get them set just right... now that being said weird stuff like my trike and a funky motor combo that i am going to be doing soon might just benifit from some custom pipes.

if your building these with much better mounts that would be great. the biggest problem i have with mine is the junky ass mount setup.. IF you have a PV setup these pipes really scream. for 375 hell most track guys/ draggers should just grab up a set and try them.. also i take it you just have a set number of them? not a set of original die's?