camatv

all very true.. i guess then i may be a lil too demanding of these transmissions. for some just a modified star and shift shaft will suffice. for me personally its just not enough... i mean i just bought this complicated rotating head tool grinder to do the gears on the overrides i'm going to be doing. from what i have seen most are done by hand i feel and after a while cause problems. problems that i want to avoid.. and seeing whats going on with both shafts available does make it very obvious why its needed. not just the star modification. if i was doing only one i would do the shift shaft. hey at least you were willing to take the time to check it out and not just bash me..

ok as far as my experience with higher HP motors just farting around.. my lsr outlaw had a 421 cc stock cylinder motor in it. now this was the absolute best chassis possible as far as a dunner, trail bike. anyone that thinks otherwise welp i'm not going to argue with you just take my word on it.. the motor made 80hp and 55ft lbs of tq, on gas.. i like alky i switched it to alky. so it was more agressive.. what i really really liked about it was the fact that i DIDNT have to wind the motor out to get it to make any real power and get around. i could chug it everywhere. the new owner of the bike liked this fact also. i later switched it to stock carbs and pump gas with custom domes.. before this i ran a 485 PV cheeta 4 mill in a lightened stock j-chassis and running a 6 over arm. it was on alky and had a brutal bottom end. i could chug it off idle up any dune out there, BUT the top end HP was so brutal it was very hard to control. it was fun as hell but wore me out really really fast. the swinger was to short to really be fast drag racing but was a blast to ride.. my most fav trail motor was a 350cc ported for t-6 pipes and running 30mm pwk's and or 32/34 or 34/36 lectrons.. it had really brutal bottom end. was easy to ride you could chug it around no problem. it was a great even power and cheap motor to maintain really.. if i had that engine in the outlaw i really feel it would have bee ultimate for an older fart like me to ride.. big motors are fun to ride IF you can handle it. BUT my personal exp is that a more mild lower end motor is way more easy to ride. if that makes sense..

that sucks! hardware is not as hard as you think to get. you can check ebay and look for salvage places stripping them down. most of them will have a complete engine bolt set or every bolt removed from the outside of the bike. just get a few of those and you should be set. alo i have used hardware stores for most of the outer bolts on the chaissis and such. ace has a lot of metric flanged bolts in a grade 8 setup and matching nuts. the "wife's bike build" i used that style of hardware throughout it they are silver plated in color also. that was the main reason. i personally never really liked the stainless bolt "kits" the stripping and siezing and all that dang antisieze goop all over them just turned me off from that stuff i'd also recommend getting the allen bolt kits for the clutch cover and the stator cover those are cheap and work much better than the screws. matton sells them.

mull star i believe has longer pins ( to counteract a worn the fuck out shift shaft end) and is machined with the star tips shorter so you don't have to cut them down. it also has a lil deeper N section ( from what i believe) i DO actually like the mull bearing conversion for the shift roller. that seemed to work well i know what i know from years of trial and error, then spending a year with a trans in and out of a motor trying all kinds of combinations until one actually worked in a real 421 stock cylinder motor making 55ft lbs of tq and 80+ hp. in my experience if you want one to work all the time and work well with higher hp and tq AND shift full throttle it takes more than just a star and shiftier modification. if your still not sure what it is that modifcation does welp take some time and figure it out... i'm sorry i wont just go into detail with full on HD pictures and complete examples of the work i do with them. it took time and money to get them figured out.. its no big secret just a certain combo that i found to work very well...

look up renegade alky. i really want to run that stuff next year. the closes supplier is about 3 hours from me... i have noticed a big difference in running a good certified "race" alky over some of the local pipe line alky i can get here.

welded crank, better main bearings, billet basket with clutch upgrade. plus transmission upgrade is a must. at least if i built it it would be...

they made banshee pipes also? oh boy i was talking like import fart can headers and most other vehicles...

who knows what material they used. i'm sure there was no "testing " done at all.... not sure why they chose to only offer banshee arms?? maybe some place special order'd them and then they just built them from there. to me that upper looks fuggly anyways.. hell you can get thick flange stainless headers from the communist corporation for 120-200 bucks...

eeeerrrr that if the star is "modded" you don't need to do the shift shaft?? was that your point?? if it was i said ummmm naw the shaft is done for a different reason.. i have had bike shift a lot better from just spitting cases also amazing what cleaning out all that old clutch residue will do for a transmission.. then after a bit blamo! no mo shift righty

star said it best. get a book and start reading.. do everything he said .... i'll add this. matton plated basket one of the best for price and strength there is. tusk complete clutch OR FAST clutch. one is 55 bucks other is around 120ish>? ebc is a good clutch also. do you have all the componets, pressure plate hub etc?? also get a bearing clutch pusher for it cheap insurance. have someone look at the cylinders and see what you have there for sure. after that you can kinda get a plan together for the complete motor. i personally use only cometic gaskets AFM style, OEM crankshaft seals, and OEM clutch cover gasket. best to check the water pump and most likely replace the seal in there also. any other aftermarket complete seal kit for the rest seems fine i just don't like most others crank seals. some are total trash. also while your in there look into doing a stock modified transmission if you want more info on the one i offer send me a PM. the truererrrer the crank is the better it will run. i have also seen some only weld the outer pins and the center go out of phase and then separate also. bad day... even an fmf trail beast 350 will need a welded crankshaft/

welp someone bought them..

the shift shaft" modification is for a different reason.. if your not seeing why welp.............. but i personally feel just doing one or the other or both is useless without a real transmission modification.. they help kinda but the real problem is still there.

if the flywheel is fucked anyways. dosent matter how you get it off... one i had to actually cut it completely off. welded 2 pullers to it, 3 jaw just bent the hell out of it. was able to save the stator tho... budget i'm gonna rebuild it cheap then sell to make a lot of money bikes are few and far between... rebuild labor rate i'd say 100-150 + parts. and no matter what if the rods are jacked up the center bearings are too.

proper modded shift very nice. HP DOES make a HUGE difference on how they shift due to the way they are designed.. a 40-45 hp stock banshee will shift pretty good still not great but ok. fresh oil thats a really good quality makes a difference also. it sound to me like either one of the gears is welded to the shaft, broken shift fork OR the end of the shift shaft has rotated and is stuck inside the shift star.. the design of the shift shaft shifting mech is horrible. i'm working on a stronger shift shaft now.... and also DO NOT USE ATF!!!!!!! use a real motorcycle bottom end oil or a good quality MC gear oil.

welp.. the spring loaded basket or ANY clutch basket change is NOT going to isolate your shock loads off the transmission. figure that one out on your own your smart enough. IF it was ME i would look for a rear wheel hub setup that HAS a cush sproket mount and just adapt that to your street bike, dirt bike conversion ( what i THINK your building).. and yes i know what your talking about and why they are there.

thats easy compare cost of a 14 billet crank to a 4 mill forged....

and i dont understad why 7 and 10 fordged cranks dont cost the same as a 4 mill or SS. all the parts are the exact same EXCEPT for the pin position. if all the webbs are good its worth it to rebuild one. Wild card, crankworks. or any other site sponsor that does it in house should be able to help you. if i had a jig to do the 10's i could do it also. ( i'm pretty picky on how i press the center's back together). i'm going to be building a 10 jig this winter along with a welding jig also.

sheet. a cheapo stocker bike IS cheap to build you find a few owners that built it instead of bought it and you will find a huge pile of junk ass to ok shape stock parts. if you just want a spray painted pile of OEM parts thrown together to get something to go ride and have fun on it can be done for around what your saying to about half of that. mostly starts with a really good find on a blown up bike. they are out there. last year i sold a complete ( but blown motor) banshee for 800 bucks. it was nothing pretty by any means and was completely torn apart but i estimated about 5-800 and it would be together and look decent and run. now if you thinking your going to get top of the line parts and have a super bad ass bike for 3k that you would have to buy complete i'm sure. since you already have "found" most of the parts you need locally why not just build it and post pictures. seems you got it all figured out. best advice in here so far was to watch out for minkia on ebay. you never know what your going to get. i have a "budget build" 87 j framer, i can do right now but why take the time to take pics to post on here for a bunch of dicks that don't know me to criticize what i do? some threads go great others make you want to just cancel your name on hq and go ride. i think i could get it back together and looking good for around 1500-2000. i personally think it would be a neat thread to follow, showing progress and prices, and read up on for people like you.

that would be interesting to see..

not sure why motor size would dictate reliability? its more of a build QUALITY that counts... i have had motors top ends last about 3-4 years before ring and pistons jobs. ( that was riding a LOT) bottom ends with cranks on 8+ years. maintenance goes a very very long way also. hell there are plenty of really large CC snomobile 2 strokes out there running all the time. even large cc marine motors...

i cannot think of any cub that can pull a 300lb dude on 15/40 gearing with overdrive straights on a set of 14 extreme stagg's ( with a +20?* exhaust) but i know of a 485 pv cheeta that can.....

do the tucked look. to me it looks a lot better.. maybe someday i will finish mine. just totally lost interest in it for some reason and i'd say its 98% ready for a motor to go in

man you need to get that motor started up at least!!

head to piston contact damage is there.. detonation.. bad dome shape also.

i do mine on a lathe bit grinder. it has a nice table on the side. then i clean it up with a diamond wheel.. i have seen some that the very tips of the edges were taken off PHHHHH what the hell yea that does a lot. ALSO if you going to do this ONLY and not fix the real problem ( in the transmission) do the shift shaft also.