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96white/red

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East TN
  • Interests
    2-strokes
    hunting

Previous Fields

  • My Banshee (optional)
    96'<br />dune port<br />cool head<br />boyesen carbon reeds<br />fmf pipes<br />k&n filter<br />works shocks<br />

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  1. My Brother in law buys a 04 450r stock. All I hear is how its a beast and the fastest quad he ever ridden....... I told him yep their nice quads. Then he insists that its faster than my banshee? I told him not really as my ride is ported pipes ect. NO USE TELLING HIM. He wants to race on the pavement... anyway this goes on for months as he needs tires or something but never quits telling me how the banshee is outdated and cant "hang" with the new high performance thumpers. I had yz450f dirt bike and traded it for 06 trx. He stops by to see my 450r and wants to ride it and I let him, he says "wow I think its faster than mine" then asks to ride me banshee--- of course I say no. Then he wants to see how the shee does vs. my trx 450r and told him the trx is fun and that i got for trail riding. He pissed me off after a while so i let him ride trx and i hop on the "old 2-stroke". We get to a long straight section of road and I told him give trx all it has and I will follow him. He takes off gives it hell with me cruising behind... when he topped out i fly by him like he is sitting still. We ride back to my house and says he guessed he was wrong and then starts calling a couple friends saying that banshee is a four stroke killer! Just thought is was funny but had do it with my quads? You have to love those in-laws!
  2. I will leave you to it, to check your rod and ball you can leave the plates in just take the springs off and use magnet to get them out . There should be No problem with them coming out ... if its hard to get out then you have a problem. I will check back and hope you have it fixed.
  3. it should. but I would check the long rod and grease both ends as well as ball bearing. it is worth checking to make sure that it come out of the mainshaft easily. the part that goes into your case on the other side should be checked as well... mine was worn pretty bad from hd springs. these parts are cheap and checking this could save you a ton of work. if it is not your problem then that's good but putting the grease on the rods and bearing is very important to keep from welding them. If all this is good and right then you can rule them out but its very similar to what mine did. good luck
  4. you have a service manual or clymers book? there is a service manual in the tech section of this forum. look at it and you will see the rod... your supposed to put grease on the ends of both rods and the ball when you service the clutch. I only telling you this bc mine messed up like your telling me and I rode more !! then no clutch and ended up having to pull the motor and split the cases in order to get the rod out.
  5. If there is clutch material or any thing else in your tube where the rod goes(mainshaft) you clutch will be hard to pull and if rod gets stuck your clutch won't work at all.
  6. there is a ball and 2 pushrods. the short one has the screw head on it and for adjusting free play. there is a long pushrod in that hole that runs to other side of case. And a ball bearing goes between the two rods. the long rod and will come out with a magnet and must be checked.
  7. I would also suggest lighter springs. I have had clutch issues ( pushrod mushroomed and was stuck in the mainshaft). I would check the mainshaft inside make sure the pushrod travels freely inside the mainshaft and that there are no issues with your ball bearing. the pushrod should come out with a magnet easily.. if not you may have build up in there(around you pushrod which makes it tight) and would make it hard to pull as separate problem from the hd springs. You should also look at you where the clutch cable terminates.. take it off pull the part that goes down in the case and see if it is worn and replace if needed... hd spring requires more force to work the clutch and wore a flat spot in mine from where the pushrod touches it. Inspect the ends of pushrod for wear and replace it if needed.. I replace when I do a clutch job. hope this helps
  8. Only running that mix on 1st tank for the new top end then 32 : 1. Its not running like shit but I think I will get some help dialing it in if it doesn't clean up after this tank is gone. I had to hone/ clean the mainshaft out and then put the new clutch in. The quad has been sitting for ten years with the clutch pushrod stuck (my pushrod issue occurred when the clutch started slipping and tried to make it home). I read about it on this site then fixed it right. Took everything out cleaned cases and all new seals. Guess I will try some lonestar A-arm next. thanks
  9. I don't know what the port timings are.. will check with shop. Never thought of port job give and take issue but I am sure as hell pleased with it. Probably just me being o.c.d
  10. I just joined, site is the best thing out. just rebuilt my 96' and had port job done. It runs like hell! ! but there is a lag when pulling out not a miss or anything like that. It cleans up and runs awesome after you get going. Starts and idles good as well, I have rebuilt several banshees this one b/c the clutch pushrod mushroomed and would not come out . So I split the cases and fixed that .. new clutch, and top end plus port job. love the power and could ride it the way it is but would prefer to fix my lagging issue. Plugs are rich but I am running rich oil mixture 6ozs/gallon for a tankfull break-in period? I am no carb expert so help would be great?? Thanks
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