camatv

i hear that complaint a lot. then they get here for me to do my work on them and they are all jacked up...

is the gap still there after you tq'd all the bolts?? was it ever running before? did it have a massive rear oil leak? if the cases are ok there is some kind of misalignment. NO amount of internet questions are going to fix that for you. you need to look for the problem

head changes can make big differences.. that is complete changes. not just decked.. 2 strokes react to different chamber designs a LOT

hmmm

i'll drag it out of the corner and take a few pics.. wish i had some of that ban-z it was fun. lil ported 350cc stocker i did and it was a handfull

the more things change the more they stay the same.

look at the flange area.. small bores have a step like most other pipes to step down. big bores are nearly the same size as the outside of the flange.. on shear's this is how i tell for sure on cpi its the stinger size after the pipe. smalls have a step down to the stinger bigg's are same dia as the stinger.. at least what i have found... i'm sure skeeter just sticks the stingers up his ass for measurements..

i helped a local with a tri-z chassis and banshee motor. its a fun bike to ride.. the cr500 pipe i built for my trike worked well well the motor locked from shitty alky during testing of it.. if i knew i wouldnt get a bunch of shit for it i'd throw up pics of it it looks like a propane bottle hanging off the side of the motor.

they look ok to me. but untill they are built and running wont know for sure.. the smaller slip rolls are only around 200 bucks... that and a decent electric shear and your ready to go. i have been using 20 ga and 22 ga. still trying to get the welding part to look like i want but i think i figured that out now.. now to just get the dual o-ring flanges done....

shit a PAIR of those would run 2k. fuck that. i have been really contemplating one of the USED 3's for my teryx in a single. the webber works ok but i think i'd like a easier to tune carb.

seems the "stamps " went all over the place! i guess i hear so many rumors. heard the stampings were destroyed, the spec on them was long gone, the guy that orginally made them was dead, k+t quit selling them because they ran so good on a "drag bike" k+t would sell you a set IF they had them for over 1,000.00 you couldnt get them anymore no matter what and used was your only option bla bla bla bla thats everything i can rember about them. first set i bought because i wanted to try out some different pipes and they were same side. wasn't till after i put them on and then blew the head right off the motor that i started really looking into them. soo how does the whole "stamp" thing work anyways?

really? put fox float in ebay..

i might consider that.

you can still get PSI carbs... http://www.psicarbs.com/home.php

i knew they felt much better with a pv setup than a std motor....

try a yfz or 700 rappy park brake setup.

i have some t5's if you want to trade for the t-6's IF they are in good shape

those are sweet..

try 16 ext or 14 stag

i weighed my self took a big dump then weighed myself again i lost 1 lb. nice to know that tip on the preggo

only single arm chassis i ever rode that i actually felt safe on was my lsr. ALL the others i have tried have twitched or jerked when they get unloaded. for some reason that was "acceptable" bullshit! but my damn lsr rides like a brick. i really love my dual arm setup with floats on it. nice and comfy

um yea that chassis is pretty custom....

much better than shaws IF your suspension can MOVE> fronts work great on dual a-arm setups. single arm setups shouldn't move more than about an inch to 1-1/2" of total travel!!!!!! the bump steer is horrible and will cause a wreck.. adn no you cannot just bolt one into an existing single arm setup.. rears are easy to do. you would just need them setup correctly. and also on a rear setup if you want it comfy its going to have to handle some travel. with a loooong arm this usually ends up with to much chain deflection and it will cause the chain to get tossed or become so tight on accel it will snap.. this is the main reason the LSR sand shark chassis looks the way it does. it moves the swingarm piviot point right inline with the front sproket. and that causes no tightening or loosening of the chain through the suspension's travel. that is bad ass..

go that far and NOT take it!!! what the heck!

damn sucks when that happens.. let us know what you find out. no matter what the axle does look very sweet! i have heard of baloney sammich drag axles? but not baluga whale ones?